Lurker no more Cathedral Peak TR

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Mikemcee

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 13, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
This place has provided so many with so much inspiration and knowledge I figured I might as well have a go myself. What the hell, everyones got to start somewhere, right?

Little background. My climbing partner has a lot of experience, I do not. Solid, safe leader and like myself, a guy that wants to get back to see his kids even if he winds up being a little late. Of course, he also has a kind of perverse streak in that he likes to put people, in this case me, in situations that might cause them to leave a skidmark but not completely soil their undergarments. A couple of years back, our first adventure was an October ascent of Shasta's Hotlum/Wintun ridge where, in his version of an advanced placement course, I learned both crampon use and self arrest on the 40+ degree suncupped alpine ice. 'Nuff said.

Anyhow, after doing my first multipitch climb with him on Donner summit this summer, he declared me fit and ready to tackle something more interesting and the plan was hatched for a late season assault on the classic Cathedral Peak.

After a really cold night just outside the gate on Tioga, I was fully stoked as we made our way up the approach. Any mission with Lenny needs to have an epic component so fittingly, there was a chance of snow, wind, and cold temps in the forecast. Mind you, I grew up in an elevator culture and have just a (not so) little issue with heights so after analyzing, studying, and generally over thinking things and believing I was totally ready, my first glimpse of our objective was met with a barely audible "oh sh!t".

Lenny doing his best "Americas Next Top Model" in front of the rock:


Since he'd been up the route a few times before, we left the book behind and figured we'd just pick a start and go. Great plan outside of having to simul a few times when he couldn't find a belay spot with our 50m rope. Despite our best efforts, we did wind up with some interesting belay stances, especially once it started snowing sideways on us but nothing to get me any more sketched than I already was in fact, the snow was good as it reinforced my plan to bury my head and just stare at the rock while I was belaying.

Since I refused to look down once I started up, much of my day looked like this:


If I had the skills, I'd put one of those little cartoon balloons for text on this picture since, to the best of my recollections, I was telling him something like "put the damn camera away and take! Please!"


I have to admit that when I wasn't climbing, I was fairly gripped but I can honestly say that once I figured out how to get the pack attached to my harness and stuff it in the chimney, that this was the most fun I've ever had climbing. And from there on up, my head was pretty much all good:


Up and over the last block with an incredible amount of respect for John Muir as I pulled onto it. As I crossed and looked down at his route, I was filled with new found admiration for one of this country's great adventurers:


Obligatory summit shot and Eichhorn scenic:



So there I was thinking what a great day it HAD been and how it was done and it was Miller time, and that we would just magically wind up back in the car for our drive down to my first valley visit. Oh right, we gotta get down. And thus began a really fun 4th class scramble down the snow covered slabs which despite being perhaps the most dangerous part of our day, proved no match for the newly minted hardman! (Last sentence with all due respect to the real hardmen but please laugh with me, not at me)

Anyhow, I have to say that I now have the bug. The climbing bug. And I'd like to thank each and every one of you for feeding it everyday.

PS: In case you're wondering how the next day climbing in the valley went, it didn't. We got down late to a completely full park and instead of doing a bivy somewhere in the woods, we tried sleeping under a tarp in the back of the truck. And then we got caught and thrown out. The end.







Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Where are YOU from?
Dec 13, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
Hiya, Mikemcee!!!
Nicely done.....I love that rock. Climbed it several times.
Nice TR, nice pics....too bad about the bust.
'The forest is Vast.......'
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 13, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
COOL


Photos always work
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 13, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
hey there mikemcee... say, i'll echo captain... or skully, on that: nicely done... very nicely done...

nice bit of humor, and:

say---i really loved the "what i saw the rest of the day" (or what ever it was you said) pic... and i liked the comparison of that photo, with the next photo, of the down-view (it was not from your viewing, of course--but it did the trick)...

the ol' up and down views---good angles to "give the feel of what's going on"...


thanks for the neat share...
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 13, 2008 - 09:59pm PT







great report!
pc

climber
East of Seattle
Dec 13, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
Great TR. Thanks.

And nice de-lurk.

pc
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
Dec 13, 2008 - 10:58pm PT
Man, that makes my Cabin Fever all the worse.

Congrats!

Right behind you.

Looking down gets boring to me also.
Why recount? The future is up.
(plus, it scares the livin sh#t out of me)
Mikemcee

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 11:07pm PT
Thanks for making me feel welcome. The taco bar is so high but I suppose everyone started somewhere, and man, somewhere was cool!

You guys rock.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 13, 2008 - 11:18pm PT
Mike
Your story is what climbing is about. Many of us here thrill to read TR's with photos like yours that describe the great times climbers are having. Thanks tons for the vicarious charge you give us!

best, ph.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 13, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
Yes somewhere is cool.
Here is cool!

P.O.V. in word and image...
Great stuff and thanks for de-lurking!!!
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
Dec 13, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
Next time you get roused by Sgt Shultz, just bivy along here somewhere, beats drivin home:

Indianclimber

Trad climber
Lost Wages
Dec 13, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
Nice TR thanks

Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Dec 14, 2008 - 12:18am PT
what a splendid trip report! Your description and photos were a joy.

Any other good Cathedral Peak stories out there?
Mikemcee

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 12:18am PT
Thanks for the info DR. Rock.

Indianclimber, I knew somebody on here would have the skills but now that I see it in print wish I would have said something more, eloquent like "and while you're at it, why don't you just pass me a bucket of extra crispy"
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 14, 2008 - 12:23am PT
Very excellent TR with a lot of good laughs. How'd you like the scramble off the very top? :)
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Dec 14, 2008 - 12:37am PT
Such a great way to join the crowd!

Welcome! And well done!
Mikemcee

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 12:46am PT
How'd you like the scramble off the very top? :)

Uh, it wasn't that I didn't like the scramble off the very top, it was that I didn't like the thought of the scramble off the very top so we sacrificed a biner and sling and rapped down to the Holiday Inn sized ledge where, I thought for the second time in an hour that I was home free. Not.
Llama

Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
Dec 14, 2008 - 11:25am PT
Great TR! Always a blast to read a story about someone getting super stoked. That is a truly great, fun route!

Too bad "The Tool" threw you out...
rhyang

climber
SJC
Dec 14, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
Nice TR !

btw I think by "suncupped alpine ice" you mean suncupped snow, probably a bit hard. If it was true alpine ice (the kind that takes screws), you would not be telling this story right now.
nature

climber
Somewhere else....
Dec 14, 2008 - 12:15pm PT
excellent contribution.

I love that peak.

thank you!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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