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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 6, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Anyone done this? Worthwhile? Pics?
Looks like it might be a fun adventure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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On rare occasion people trying to do the Steck Salathe have veered instead on to the Flying Buttress.
DEEE may have a story for us.
But the best one I’ve heard, and maybe Al Dude will help us out here, is about his buddy Paul Borne, on-site free soloing the thing, including tales of go for it 11D, eventually topping out on the buttress. And if the fumes I’m running on which serve as a memory are correct, it then began to rain and he was rescued from that position.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Tar, quite scathing thoughts and sweating imagery. Seems to me like there's still plenty of 'wild' left in that particular piece of stone.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Dec 10, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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Calling mtnyoung, calling doctor young.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 10, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
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I've done it, but how would Rhodo Router know? Do I know you?
I thought it was a great route, although the wide crack ratings on the topo were laughable. Anywhere the topo shows a 5.7 wide crack expect a 5.9, make-me-puke wide crack. Ratings were different back then, especially if you were Layton Kor!
I can't recall if the current book has the modified topo I used when I did the route in 1997. Or did I do a revised topo after I did it? Clint either gave us beta or gave us a corrected topo (we did the route a month after he did). I either used his modified topo, if he did one, or tweaked the existing topo.
Have you checked Clint's site? If he or I did a modified topo it would likely be posted there.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Dec 10, 2008 - 07:11pm PT
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There's a lot of loose/rotten stuff up there. Did the Direct Northface 12 year ago - loose and scary. Consider Panorama Cliff instead for new route potential.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 10, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
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I've read a TR by Clint or his partner. If it's not on Clint's site, it's probably on rec.climbing.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 10, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
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Memories are wonderful things. I thought Clint and Evan did the route "a month" before us, and that's what I posted above. Actually it was exactly a year before us.
I checked out the topo thing too. I made very detailed notes and modifications on the topo that is in my book. I think I sent a copy to Don, but must not have sent it to anyone else.
Still wondering why Rhodo-Router pulled my name into this thread and whether I know him? the email address that seems to have his name makes me think I met him in Tuolumne Meadows this summer with Joe?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 11, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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I have a copy of your nice revised topo, Brad. Also my less pretty version. I can scan these if someone is interested.
[Edit: see scans in my later post]
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 11, 2008 - 01:26am PT
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Clint, if it's not too much trouble, why not scan it? Among other things, I'm curious if I sent you a copy of what I wrote in my book, or if I redrew the whole thing (I didn't dig too far and stopped when I saw the modification in the book).
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2008 - 02:55am PT
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I out of the country, but would love a new topo when you have a moment.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Dec 13, 2008 - 08:31am PT
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Yeah Brad, that's me. Rob.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 13, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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I've been wondering about this route too. Thanks for the thread.
Clint, please post the revised topo if you get the chance.
Zander
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
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Mr.T-
Panorama is a pretty sick cliff. But everywhere you go and think you are going to be the first you run into a random bolt or pin. I found anchors (many)up by the big corner system. Do you know if there is a wierd old Roher rappel route there?
Patrick
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mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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All I can say is the Bosque classic "Bananarama" Looks like an adventure.
Mucci
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
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Does Banarama go striaght up the big corners or is it to the left of them?
P
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
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Thanks for posting that TR. I never knew anyone who actually did that route. I always intended on going up there and trying to free climb the thing but like so many other imagined projects, I never go round to it.
JL
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mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
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Dec 13, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
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Bosque said there was alot of potential to the left and right of the corner system, not huge systems but interesting looking lines. He did say that it was a fun route.
Mucci
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Dec 13, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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JL :
"I always intended on going up there and trying to free climb the thing but like so many other imagined projects, I never got round to it."
Big kudos for forging the way through the 'Afro Cubans'
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!