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Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2008 - 10:55pm PT
SuperTopia has a new inhabitant, Don Lauria. Many of us saw him speak at the FaceLift, about the North American Wall and climbing in Pakistan, and now he's joined us here. Welcome!

Don tells about his early climbing career at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=454584&msg=713176#msg713176, hidden away in the Shawangunks history thread. He went on to make the third ascent of the Dihedral Wall (1967), the second ascent of the North America Wall (1968), and the second ascent of the Wall of the Early Morning Light (1971), often climbing with Dennis Hennek. And of course many other climbs.

Don also wrote wittily about climbing in the Valley in the 1960s, with several examples in "Ordeal by Piton", including "Half Dome Capers" and "Dihedral Diaries". In the latter, he mentioned the mysterious Cult of the Blue Cagoule. In Roper's introduction to the story, he says: "The cryptic 'Blue Cagoule' reference comes from the fact that both men, while wearing these items, decided that ethics were all important - and a minor 'cult' was thus born."

Quotes from the three page story:
 "Dennis, a wearer of the Blue Cagoule, insists that we clean every fixed pin and every piece of old sling from the route."
 "Dressed as an ordinary tourist, I hesitantly leave the glory of Camp 4 to return with Dennis to the base of El Capitan. The cult of the Blue Cagoule has dictated that we are bound ethically to clean up the refuse of our climb - water bottles, salami wrappers, old pitons, and sling material. Three unfamiliar climbers inquire quite seriously, 'Are you guys paid by the park service for the work?' 'Oh, yes,' is our reply. 'We are paid in advance.'"

Probably the first ever Yosemite FaceLift, at least by climbers, as Don said at his show.

Don is a retired engineer living in Bishop, and is now a director, guide, editor and CFO for the Bardini Foundation. There's more about him at http://www.bardini.org/bb_guides.htm, and more stories he's written at http://www.bardini.org/bb_anec.htm
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 2, 2008 - 11:06pm PT
Welcome to the forum Don Lauria!

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 2, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
Here, here for Don L! This ancient bastard is an inspiration for everyone. So subtle but meanwhile clever without being guileful; it’s very fun dealing with him. A friend to hundreds of us and a great climber. Very fun guy to hang with too, tons of experience with people. He has a tremendous amount of experience in quite a few parts of the experienced world. Just noticed that he has started posting too. He must be the only one of his generation (the one before me) that is present and feels comfortable here, wanting to put in a few word now and then like the rest of us. Thanks Anders (Mighty Hiker) for putting the spotlight on him; he is absolutely deserving of it.

best ph.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
In a sense, I already got to shine a spotlight on Don. (Hopefully he doesn't mind my doing so again.) He brought traditional (non-digital) slides to the FaceLift, in trays. At the last minute, I was asked to be in the projectionists booth, to change Don's trays, clear any jams or problems, and ensure things were in focus. There were six trays altogether, over an hour, so I was kept busy. It was very hot, too. Anyway, a couple of times I changed trays, and Don and I both clicked "advance" at the same time. Which led to predictable jams. Oh well. Plus once the image got off-centre.

It was an excellent show, all the better in that I believe Don hadn't looked at the slides in 30+ years.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 3, 2008 - 12:06am PT
Don, my condolences on joining this nefarious crew. Little good will come of it, and much time will be wasted. Like drinking with your friends, only different.

As in all such mingling stories get trotted out, and at times we come to suspect that they have enlarged a wee bit in the telling. Just to set a good example, here is a tale featuring your goodself, and taking place within the last decade to boot.

So Don is helping me with some Foothill College climbing students who we have lured up to High Camp at the edge of the Palisades Glacier. The glacier was considerably bigger back then (did I mention there was enlargment in the tale?), and the ship of our little expedition had foundered alarmingly, yawing all over the ice, for our stores had run dry of the one most essential of all a ship's staples: rum.

Don jumped up, volunteering to save the day. Jumped? -- he fairly leapt to our aid, for some of us were sorely dessicated by the lack. Now you could hardly tell from Don's casual demeanor the seriousness of his task, for he sauntered away from the glacier camp with just a tiny rucksack and those blue shorts (no cagoule in sight).

Now it is full well ten miles down that trail to the roadhead, and drops five thousand feet into the bargain, but Don's resolve did not waver. And the next thing we knew he was back, having assuredly regained every panting step of the way just to bring us a full-gallon flagon, and for good measure more lemonade powder for the mixing of it. All hands were revived, and the very next day, emboldened by our good fortune, we despatched the notorious Swiss Arete on mighty Mount Sill.

So, you see, Don is a fine gentle-fellow and always looking out for the good of the crew. We bid you, sir, most welcome.

in closing I make bold with just one small request. Would you mind telling us -- at your leisure, to be sure -- my very favorite of all your stories? 'Tis the one about Norman Clyde's favorite Norman Clyde story...

Cheers mate,

Doug
east side underground

Trad climber
crowley ca
Nov 3, 2008 - 12:28am PT
Hey Don you had better work on your 12oz curls hanging out with swilliam-hehehe
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 3, 2008 - 12:32am PT
And he's even an Opus, fan!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Nov 3, 2008 - 12:33am PT
Ancient B...( per P. Haan? ) will reserve judgement. :D

Sewellymon speaks well of you and that's a plus.

Never saw ya at the F. Lift but welcome (from a newbie) to this Grate Place.

Lynne
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 3, 2008 - 12:38am PT
Welcome Don. There's some knuckleheads around here, but overall a good crew.

cheers,
Munge
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 3, 2008 - 01:52am PT
hey there don... say... welcome... i am not a climber, and i am new here for the last year or two... came by this ol' place, when i saw my brothers name here...

say, may the good lord bless you with many more fine adventures and climbs...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Nov 3, 2008 - 10:06am PT
Glad to welcome you here, Don.
And thanks already for your postings.
Keep sending them in. . . .pleaaaaseeee!!!!
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Nov 3, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
Don's the man!

Welcome, my friend.

John Long
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 3, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
Welcome Don

I can see you will fit in quite well on ST!



Salmon River- Aug
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
I suppose he'll claim that the babe in the foreground of the photo is his daughter... :-)
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 3, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
Anders

In reality it is my daughter, Kali. Don is like a godfather to her.

Look forward to meeting you in the Valley if you make it.

Joe

Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 3, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
Okay Joe,

Now one with you in it.

MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Nov 3, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
Great to have you "on board" Don. Hope you keep the stories coming, the history buffs (like me) are lovin' it!

Erik Wolfe (Borghoff)
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 3, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
Guido,

Ah, the Moose Finger. Another story to tell!
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 3, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
Hey Don,

Great to see you here, and thanks for the opening salvo of really great stories, dumpin snow up here at Donner right now, ready for some skiing soon!

Peter


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