Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2008 - 06:47pm PT
|
So, it has been twelve years now so I have to ask: Has anyone done this route?
Despairadoes takes the natural line up the east face of the Silver Turret, in The Gorge of Despair in King’s Canyon. Guy Keesee and I got Started on it in 1994. Guyzo, Chelsea Griffie and I returned in ’96, and the way it shook out Chelsea and I did the FA while Guy soloed the south ridge to meet up on top. At the time we thought it was .12a, with several bits of .11d along the way. The route features wild exposure and is 8 pitches long. The approach is 12 miles over a high pass.
Accuse me of spraying if you must, but I will say that this is one of the “to do” back country routes in California. As far as I know it has not seen a second ascent.
Everything you need to know is here: http://www.summitpost.org/route/160528/Despairadoes.html
There is also some good info in Secor’s guide.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
|
Nice one, K!
Erik
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
|
To help convey an idea of what the setting of this route is like, here is a picture Guy Keesee took at sunrise from our camp under the base fo the wall. You are looking down on the summit of Tehipite Dome!
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
|
Kris, it's funny, this past weekend I was trying to get a partner interested in going to the Gorge of Despair sometime. He likes to climb more obscure backcountry routes, the Obelisk for example. Even in Yosemite Valley he likes to visit the less-traveled places, even if the guidebook doesn't give them any stars :)
But for some reason he was more enthused about Mt. Harrington than the Gorge itself. I remember the long haul from Deer Cove (4400') back in June, and was perusing Secor for 5.6 - 5.8 free routes a couple of months ago..
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
|
Rob, you should climb the El Corporale and El Commandante Turrets. It will be a once in a lifetime experience.
Mt. Harrington is a sideshow on the way in. Worth doing by all means but just as an appetizer.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
|
Now who in their right mind would hike all the way up there only to repeat a route when they can have their pick of numerous FAs on beautiful virgin rock??
Climber's are too selfish...
Just kiddin'
...sorta. :)
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
|
That's actually a really good point, Nate (not to take away from Kris's excellent ascent).
Ya hike in a long day (usually two with gear for a few days), and the world is your oyster - at least in Washington).
You just have to have the first ascentionist mindset, then you start to ask why repeat? when we can forge our own creation...
Thanks for the reminder - oh, bliss.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
|
When you see the Gorge of Despair you will understand.
Despairadoes is THE line. There are also virtually unlimited new route possiblities, but there are a few really obvious clean lines. Other than Despairadoes the obvious cherries, already picked, are the North Ridge of the Silver Turret and the Fabulous Prow of Cobra, first climbed by Phil Warrender and Gary Valle.
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
|
More pics please *
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
|
Is that face well visible from the road, I may have some diatant shots. I'll have to look.
Kris, kudos for that route, the approach alone sounds like a worthy adventure.
kick ass!!!!
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
|
Yeah. What Al said.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
|
more pics please...
oh, ok.
photos by Guy Keesee
edit: several Gorge of Despair formations are visible from the road including the west face of this one. This climb is on the hidden east face though.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
|
Holy Overlaps, Batman!
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2008 - 12:11am PT
|
Of course thanks for spraying K! . What a creative and novel route in the v. special Kings Canyon area. Thanks tons. Yeah, Holy Overlaps. I wish I had been there!
As time goes on there are on ST every now and then these amazing bits about routes that few know about but which routes are stellar. I keep thinking of (The Warbler) Kevin Worrall's rte on Basket Dome too among others. Keep putting this stuff up everybody. This is climbing as I know it.
best ph.
ps. "Modesty is the ability to call attention to whatever it is that you are being humble about."
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
From: From: From: From:
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2008 - 01:42am PT
|
Newsletter-worthy to be sure .
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2008 - 11:13am PT
|
Thanks for the recommendations Kris !
|
|
| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!