Variations
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NYZoo

Trad climber
Gunks
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 12, 2008 - 11:50am PT
I was in the valley and I did two variations that I couldn't find in any topos for. I was wondering if anyone knew of them.

The first was on higher cathedral spire. The topo's I've looked at show two options for pitch 2, the left most crack goes at 5.7 and a 5.9 crack with pins in it to the right. Standing at the belay tree on the top of pitch 1 I looked up and to the right and there was a very nice looking corner to a flare. I thought it looked like a great 5.9 and went up. The pitch was great, the best of the route, but was not 5.9. As I grunted through the corner and flare I realized I was off route since the climbing was more 5.10 than 5.9. The pitch was well protected and very clean plus it puts you right near the end of the 5.9 pitch. Later on repel I could clearly see where the 5.7 and 5.9 cracks went for the normal pitch 2 options. Anyone know why this isn't in the topo's? Anyone been on it or know the grade? I thought it was awesome and would recommend it to 5.10 leaders.

The second variation was on mungenella, again pitch 2. The second pitch goes up near the corner and didn't look very interesting. To the right of the corner a little past the belay is a little overhand (maybe a foot or so) which leads to two thin cracks. Harder committing move over the little roof onto some thin face into two nice thin cracks. This leads right into the normal route at the top of pitch 2. I'm guess 5.9+ or so. Again it was the best climbing of the route but not in any topos that I looked at.

Anyone been on these?
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