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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
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Anyone else out there done "The Thief" above the Watchtower near the base of the Leaning Tower?
We did it this week and man I thought it was as good as any crack climb I have ever done. Absolutely stellar and clean and pure. The approach is a little interesting. We climbed the Watchtower from the west and roped up to do it, although the guidebook said 4th class, I don't think so, kind of chossy. Then rapped off a chockstone to the belay ledge at the base of The Thief which starts on the east side of the Watchtower about halfway up. My partner was motivated to climb it, as he spotted the climb and got all jazzed to lead it. I have to say it was well worth the effort and more. What a splitter, I'm still smiling.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Oct 11, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Tell us more.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
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It takes a little effort to get to, like I said, but when you see the crack from the ground it will really rev you up.
It starts out with a traverse off a ledge on pumpy hands to the crack system. Physical crack climbing with occasional face holds for about the first 25 feet with instant exposure when you step off the ledge. Then the angle drops back ever so slightly and the crack gets perfect thin hands and and thin feet and just go dog go. Rated Valley 10d, it is stout and rewarding. We only did the first pitch, as the second pitch does not look as good, I don't think it sees traffic. You can lower from the anchors with a 60m back to the ledge. The anchors are composed of a pin and some fixed stoppers and the like. It looks fairly bomber but I was surprised no ASCA anchors. If this climb were more well known or closer to the Valley floor, it would be nonstop traffic.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 11, 2008 - 02:24pm PT
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I've done it about 10 times.
In the early days before friends you had to run it out a bit due to hexes not working to well in that parallel crack.
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Brandon Lampley
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 11, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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I was just climbing in the Indian Himalaya, and met a team of Russian guys crushing it. When I asked about their trip to Yosemite, this is the only route two of them mentioned as awesome. And they climbed lots of stuff. Interesting.
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shutupandclimb
climber
So. Cal..............d00d
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Oct 11, 2008 - 03:56pm PT
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PICTURES...........PLEEZ
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 11, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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I bet Warbler can weigh in on this one as it's one of his routes.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 11, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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I googled images on Google for a photo of the Leaning Tower area "Thief" and this came up right away:
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Oct 11, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
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thief,dork,dickhead,criminal,muttafukka, bastard,prick,as#@&%e,terrorist,numscull,idiot,c*#ks@cker,shithead,kook,barney,mahoon,......any others?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 11, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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esu - tell us how you really feel!
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evenkeel
climber
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Oct 11, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
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There is a coiler aid route that takes off from the top of the thief. Worth the visit thou a tad loose-the aid route that is, not the crack start.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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dude, the first ascentist Warbler, very cool to meet ya. Awesome route.
Why did you name it the Thief? We conjected that it was becasue you had to climb the Watchtower and then rap down on the opposite side and then climb again. Kind of sneak in. The Princess, which we also did(5.9 crack) is a little further over. Any relativity or do I just have a good imagination?
WB doing it 10 times is also certainly a reflection of the quality of the climb. Stoked!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 11, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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this name obviously comes from the Bob Dylan and Jimi Hendrix songs, "All Along the Watchtower" wherein the thief is mentioned, Joker too. V . cool climb.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 12, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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Yeah Kevin
"One arrow and one cassin soft iron. We rapped directly off their eyes --"
That was beautiful --- and it was art.
It's lost now .....
They are becoming ----- "Robots" now.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2008 - 01:56am PT
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Its a honor to hear from you guys the history of this. For whats its worth, my first trip to the Valley was in 1978 end of August. We spent a week, 4 of us, all 18 and 19 at the time. We had been climbing hard in the Seattle area that summer, and working out at the UW climbing rock which is a outside concrete rock with brutal cracks. I had a big Yosemite loose leaf ring binder guide, not sure if anyone knows what I am talking about. First climb I led in the Valley was Stonegroove on hexes and stoppers which woke me up. Next was Reeds Direct. Then we did Nutcracker, Central Pillar, Apron climbs, on and on. A magical week and the time before cams. We were in awe. I guess you probably don't hear thank you for making it happen for all the rest of us, but THANK YOU!!!
I think one of those original pins is still there and working fine.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Oct 12, 2008 - 11:47am PT
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Kevin-of that list of thin cracks, where would you put "10 years after"? Do you not like it, or was it an oversight. For the record, it's one of my favorite routes.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 12, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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"As splitters go"
Atomic Finger crack.
No one ever goes there anymore ........
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Oct 12, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
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I LOVE threads like this!
Obscure (to me) valley routes - check
Splitter cracks - check
Hardman valley veterans posting up - check
Sick photos of the lines - bring it!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 12, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
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I have done the thief a few times. It was one of our favorites for the grade in the valley. Seems like there was a very good 10c around there as well. Not as clean as the thief, can't remember the name.
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