Ape Index Thread


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Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
Yeah, I am zero, big goose egg. My main climbing partner, The Doctor, is shorter than me, but has a better reach cuz he is +2

One of my best friends from Washington is 6'1" and has a +7! We all call him "The Albatross".

Jstan is a knuckledragger too, I found out at Facelift...

Put me on the rack or something!! Any tricks for increasing your reach, short of shoulder dislocation?

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
Jay-5'10.5" X 6'3"-bro

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
Shorten legs. Ape index increases.

The down side of positive ape index is normal high steps become killers.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
did you see Yuji unfold on the couch for his Timmy O'Neil interview? he must have a huge index...

....I'm on the road Jaybro... just printing the maps!


Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:12pm PT

Trad climber
Butte, America
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
I'm just shy of 5'6" tall with a +3.5 aper, realmojede is 5'4" with a +2.5--it seems to help a bit, but not as much as I would like:-)

Oct 5, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
There's a climb we put up many years ago called "Ape Index".

This climb addresses this human apex problem.

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
Werner, seems like it would intrinsically be within a limited range of body/reach types, no?

I alweays wanted to do an FA at Index, WA and call it "Ape Index", as well

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
OMG - I just learned I too live with a knuckle dragger! BrassNuts (Dave) is +4"! I'm a mere +1" (not bad for a girl I guess. Huh huh).

Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:26pm PT
74" tall, 80" wingspan. Mainly I find that this allows me to read the screen sitting far back, and still reach the keyboard, rather than sitting close and reading through my bifocals.


Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
plus five -


Oct 5, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
I'm neg. But I make up for it in other areas.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 5, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
I'm 6' 1"....with a 6" 5" span......(knuckle dragger...)..The missing link between man and ape.......


Oct 5, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
Check the Weasel: 5'2.5'' with a +5.5" Beat that height:index! Not to mention shoe size...anyone that height wearing a size 9.5 or larger women's shoe?

+3.5 here


Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
Post up: It's cool to be able to scratch your knees without bending over!

My money's on John for height to reach ratio...
nick d

Trad climber
Oct 5, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
I increased my ape index by landing on the ground, feet first, from around 40 feet up. I got more than an inch shorter instantly! 72" and 77" for a +5.

The downside is it makes it hard to buy shirts or suits that fit really well.

Oct 5, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
Mine is +2. Since I am only 5'1" tall, though, does that make it more of a "chimp index"?

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
Sherri! You should get the "Apehanger" bars for your Harley then! A distinct advantage for this!

Wait. Gotta find my Sherri picture...there it is:

Miss Ya! Erik
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 5, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
Sherri has a good point - it's in part relative. Perhaps it's more meaningful to determine the arm span/height ratio. Though flexibility is also important.

Or we could just measure up everyone who's ever climbed 5.12 or harder, and figure out what the key measurements and ratios are. My guess is that the only consistently relevant one is body fat - skinny people climb harder.
Scared Silly

Trad climber
Oct 5, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
I am 6'0" with a zero index. My partner has a +4 which on some routes just pisses me off to no end. Especially, like the last new route we did. I spied the line, clean the sucker, figured out the moves, but only had enough for one good try. I fell and he walked it.
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