Discussion Topic |
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 19, 2008 - 01:13am PT
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Once a classic test piece; who still appreciates the hellish corner?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Sep 19, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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It's alright. Better when it's not wet.
Definately better start to East Buttress.
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peternies
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 19, 2008 - 04:12am PT
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nah, it's quite good (definitive response)
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Jack Burns
climber
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Sep 19, 2008 - 04:31am PT
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Good summer route. I led the whole thing and remember the end of the second pitch being as exciting as the corner. There was a fixed stopper at the crux which made it not so hellish.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 19, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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Super awesome. Shady on summer afternoons. Feeling a bit old to lead all the pitches these days without cheating ;-(
Peace
Karl
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 19, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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Poor man's Good Book without the rockfall potential
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deez nuts
climber
Zona
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Sep 19, 2008 - 02:46pm PT
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any pics?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 19, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
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1st pitch might be the looker.
-No photo though...
2nd pitch:
3rd pitch:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 19, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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me and john wason hiked all the way up there once, and wound up doing some chossy pile no-star .12a thin crack a few hundred feet to the left because we were on this lame quest to do every .12a thin crack in the valley. god that thing was a pile. wtf??
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 19, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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Demon's Delight is interesting...
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Sep 19, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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That's a 3 minute hike, bvb.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Sep 20, 2008 - 12:15am PT
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Morbutt!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 20, 2008 - 02:28am PT
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Here are some more photos, from 2004:
pitch 1
pitch 2
pitch 3 (crux)
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Sep 20, 2008 - 09:05am PT
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All I remember is that my small fingertips fit snuggly into the crux. My buddy's fingers were too big. Will repeat this one again.
Demons Delight is okay. A horizontal traverse. Weird crux. Will not repeat.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 20, 2008 - 10:50am PT
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Moratorium is high quality and fairly diverse as monolithic corners go.
p1 is pumper
p2 pretty darn technical
p3 single hardest move of the route
...impressive onsight free solo for Johnny Rock!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 20, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Demon's Delight in the morning, Moratorium in the afternoon.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 20, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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> ...impressive onsight free solo for Johnny Rock!
Impressive that he survived it; he was not happy about it.
After doing pitch 2, he realized he couldn't downclimb, and didn't want to be there anymore. A very insecure crux above, and he managed to get through it.
After this, he did not try any more 5.11 solos onsight.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 20, 2008 - 03:30pm PT
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terrific shots Clint.
Inside corners have their own terrors :)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 20, 2008 - 04:16pm PT
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Jeepers Clint,
Now that you put it that way...
'Nice jog of the memory there.
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