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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 18, 2008 - 11:43am PT
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It has been a long time since I sat and read a rockclimbing magazine from cover to cover. I remember the early years of when Climbing magazine would be my late night reading. It has been years if not over a decade since I have had the same enthusiasm of a magazine tto hold my attention.
Alpinist #25 is one of the finest mags in a long time. Great writings/stories and articles. Much historic info on El Capitan. It has brought me great joy and memories during reading it.
Thanks Alpinist and all its contributors. Enjoyed it!!
GO GET THIS MAGAZINE!!!!
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Sep 18, 2008 - 12:20pm PT
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Ammons story is f*#king Awsome!
Prod.
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Sep 18, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
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Reading the route names and FA teams on the El Cap topo (99 routes) is like taking in a tightly condensed history of big-wall climbing. That 2-page spread is worth the price alone.
But I think they forgot one... didn't some unknown kid put up a girdle traverse?
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Sep 18, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
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El Cap rescue story was very funny
" No, I am not on Half Dome, just go away"
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 18, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
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saw the ish and took it to the checkout counter straightaway. first climbing mag i've purchased in quite some time.
reminds me of ascent, and the mid-70's glory days of mountain.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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Bump...
Truely a great issue!!!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 19, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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There's a sidebar in Alpinist 25 about Jimmy Dunn's bold 1972 ascent of Cosmos, the first solo FA of an El Cap route. Reading this, I unexpectedly flashed back on that season, recalling an unimportant but previously unrecorded historical trivia-note I could add to the Cosmos story.
Joe Herbst and I reached the Valley in spring 1972, straight from Red Rock after putting up Triassic Sands and coming razor close to disaster attempting the Rainbow Wall. While Jimmy Dunn was trying the line of Cosmos with Doug Snively, Joe and I calmed our nerves making a peaceful 2nd (?) ascent of Harding's route on Liberty Cap.
Back in Camp 4 after our climb, we talked with Jimmy and heard tales of all his trials and Doug's broken thumb. Jimmy tried to persuade Joe and me to join him on his next go at Cosmos. Between Doug's fall and the other stories, it sounded sketchy to us; we were still spooked by what had happened to us on Rainbow. We told him no thanks, we'd stick to our plan for a safe route, the Salathe Wall. So Joe and I launched up the Salathe, no fixed ropes in those days, just one go-for-it push. While we were climbing, Jimmy started up Cosmos by himself because he couldn't find a partner.
We learned this after we got down, and later talked with Jimmy who said he was talking to his pitons towards the end of his 7-day ascent. What a breakthrough effort he had made!
I don't know about Joe, but over the years since then I've sometimes thought damn, too cautious, we shoulda said yes.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 19, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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Fixed ropes on the Salathe!! A sign that the apocalypse is upon us.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 19, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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Ya, I think everybody uses them now to avoid hauling the first day, don't they?
Hey Jim, another trivia note -- was it spring '71 that you were psyching up for New Dimensions? I foggily recall a campfire conversation in which you were just waiting for a new pair of EBs you'd ordered, with that route particularly in mind.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Sep 20, 2008 - 02:06am PT
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Jim... it was the spring of 70 and I was hanging around camp with my then wife and you were with yours... you told a great story about the "tick" in that "strange location" that made you sick. We climbed Ahab together... (Pratt told me, in confidence, that I was going to die on it)... well... you lead it and I died on it!!... remember?
Tom Evans
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 16, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
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Just saw it.
They left out the best parts of the Dorn Direct (the splitter to Mammoth and the three pitches to the roof).
That's all I REALLY know so it gives me pause to wonder about the rest,..
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