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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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pfffft..... up and down is an old Bachar trick. 10C? Please......
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Let me guess, he used rock shoes too? What a nancy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dick Cilley snagged that years back,
Right after he shagged the Queen of Spain.
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Yeah, 10c come on. Length yes impressive,and once again glad no one was hurt.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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I bet the wimp wore a parachute.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Solo climbing should be just that- you climb alone and only you are a witness to it.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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hmmm,
and uh - this:
"Packs on three pitch routes- I see it all of the time, another sign that the median climbing IQ is at an all time low. "
do you suppose these folks need to hang a sign
on themselves to inform you they might have
aspirations in the mountains??
does it matter to you the much to resort to name calling?
why is it you care?
Jim, you are a swell guy and a superb climber,
I just don't really understand your attitude.
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Yeah Alex is kind of a Pussy.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Soloing is cool and great and wonderful but how much soloing is on sight and how much is rehearsed on top-rope or on lead?
For a guy who has soloed 5.14, down climbing 5.10c is pretty much not news.
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marky
climber
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you know, it's funny
there's this hill just outside of Lone Pine. It's easy to overlook, but let's say you survey the skyline and ... see it, see this peak.
Mount Witty.
I took it upon myself to climb this peak one day. At the top, it occurred to me that I could "follow the topo" and descend via the "Alpinist Couloir".
Well, even I know a scree slog when I see one, so I said fukk that. Gonna downclimb instead.
You know what -- it was funner going down then up. Plus I got to piss off the guide that I passed on the way up, on the way down.
Turns out, used to be The Style to down-climb, just like parachute pants used to be The Style. Guess it's cooler today to have a "descent route" and "wicking underwear."
 Marky (Sierra Down-Climber and Parachute Pants aficionado)
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Makes sense because if no equipment, then it is harder to down climb, therefor you have an out no matter what.
Unless you start sliding down an ever widening crack.
Which could be a bummer.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Alex is way too good to make news soloing 10c. Potter's solo on the Eiger was way more rad.
Shoot. I solo up and down Royal Arches and that's way closer to my max than this was to Alex's. Downclimbing isn't that much harder if you practice a bit.
Don't get me wrong, the dude is WAY rad. I just don't see why this is a big deal
Peace
Karl
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Sorry if this is a lame question, but does anybody climb "The Fissures"?
I looked down those terrifying chimneys and wondered if anybody messes around down in there?
Looks like a free fall after the chimney ends in some places, pretty rad up there, eh?
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Karl, how do you downclimb the pendulum on the Arches?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Paulina, if there are no parties that might reach the pendulum before I downclimb to it, I stuff the rope in the crack so it's right there.
If somebody's on the route, I have a cordalette, sling and a small cam that I place at the edge of the penji, hand over hand down and over to grap the penji rope, and then swing back over to grab my stuff.
A0 I know!
Takes me about 5-10 minutes longer to downclimb than to climb up.
peace
Karl
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saa
climber
berkeley, ca
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Hi Karl
I would like to do Royal Arches... with a rope please, as a winter route. If interested: sairieau at yahoo dot com.
Sabine
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Grand Capucin is rad.
10c doesn't tell the story. It's the type of climbing that counts while soloing. The hardest slab I've ever soloed is 10c (compared to 13a sport). The hardest offwidth I ever soloed is 10a....
Way to go Alex....
Cheers, JB
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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The Capucin is at about 12,000' so others things come into play besides just the grade. Bachar is more qualified than I to judge, but I think that is the point he is making. The grade is only one piece of the puzzle.
Cheers,
Doug
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