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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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I recall about 8 or 10 years ago, some climber did a direct finish to the Shield, off Chickenhead ledge. I believew he called it "Skylab". When I did Flight Of the Albatross, I saw some cracks up there but I don't have any specific info on this variation & have never seen anything on it, even in C-Mac's "Obscurities" topos.
Has this ever been repeated? Does anybody know any more about it?
Any info would be appreciated.
Levy
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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Does anyone know?
Werner?
Deucey?
Klaus?
Russ?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 28, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
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I always thought Skylab refered to a ledge on 'Sky is Falling', on the Porcelain wall....
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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Captain Skully,
No. I am certain that there is a variation off the Chickenledge's Right side leading up into some thin cracks on a clean looking headwall, between Shield & the Muir. I kinda thought it was supposed to be New Wave A3.
Sky Is Falling might have a ledge called Skylab, but I am talking about something different.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 29, 2008 - 12:44am PT
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I don't know Levy.
But, you don't need to know anything anyways.
You just go and climb it.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 07:32am PT
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Right on...my bad.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Aug 29, 2008 - 08:56am PT
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Turning Point? False Shield?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 29, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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Nope on both. Too far to the right...
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Aug 29, 2008 - 02:06pm PT
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When I was up there, to avoid hauling bags over the roof, I set the anchor up about 100 feet to the right. That last haul was over a very knobby, low angle wall that would go free at about 5.6.
This section is almost directly over those cracks at the far right end of Chickenhead Ledge.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
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Interesting, anyway.....Werner is right, though.
Exploration is fun......
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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well?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Must've lost interest.
You're ALL over the board today, Mr.(D) Icey.....Nothin' goin' on?
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tiny-E
climber
East side
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.....yes, Skylab is the name of the direct finish off of Chickenhead ledge! The route was put up in 1994, by Mike Mcgrale and Jeff Snedden, after doing the 5th ascent of the Albatross. I was going to put out a topo, but never got around to it, too buisy climbing! Your information is about right, the climbing is full value A3, maybe A3+. I don't know if it has been repeated, but it is high quality, and the position is SPECTACULAR! The hauling is clean, WAY better than the Shield finish! If I get some free time, I will post a topo. Cheers!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Please do! I looked at that thing often over the decades!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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dayum, Supertopo delivers the goods.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Jeff... is that you?
Come on you must even have a photo or two?
TC
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tiny-E
climber
East side
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Yah it's me - Mike. The route goes up a thin crack, right of Chiefton ledge, right of the prominent crack in the photo. There is a blunt arete in the gold streak, a diaginol ramp - up and right, to the blocks at the water streak. Up and left to the small double roofs in the gold rock, where you climb through with a perfect rurp crack! You ledge out for the belay, commom with the last bit of The Muir. I think TC was just there, according to the "Bootfitter".
Tiny-E
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Is this about right? (or does it intersect the ramp at its lower left end, etc.?)
"The route goes up a thin crack, right of Chiefton ledge, right of the prominent crack in the photo. There is a blunt arete in the gold streak, a diaginol ramp - up and right, to the blocks at the water streak. Up and left to the small double roofs in the gold rock, where you climb through with a perfect rurp crack! You ledge out for the belay, commom with the last bit of The Muir."
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