White Punks on Dope (TR)


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Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
As climbers we collect many great climbs, views and camp sites as our favorites. I asked Banks how many of these I was permitted to have in my top 10? He said only 10. Dang, because I have many more climbs, camps and views that belong to that list than just 10.

White Punks on Dope 5.8+ has been on my tick list for several years. This climb definitely meets all requirements for the Best Of, list.

The “Masters of the Moderate”, Banks, Peggy Oki and myself headed out early Sunday morning from the lower camp on rt. 22S82. Besides being convenient for the approach to WPOD, it is a fabulous climber’s camp with creek, cascading granite slabs and marvelous vistas of the Needles and Kern River canyon.

Since they installed the new Lithuanian Tramway to the base, the approach was a piece of cake. (just kidding) The guide book says 40 to 90 minutes depending on your route finding skills. We did it in an hour. I feel we ascended too far right before traversing to the left side of the dome.

One look at that magnificent first pitch crack and I knew we were in for a swell day. Here Peggy flakes the rope for the first pitch. This pitch is about 205 ft., your belayer will be climbing 5 ft up the easy crack so the leader can get to the anchor. (with a 60 meter rope)

Looking down from the belay seat.

The second pitch start off of the anchor is the crux of pitch 2 and 3 which Banks strung together. The leader, looking for pro, is prone to climb in the crack which is awkward at best. I found a nice balanced start to the left of the belay seat when I followed the second pitch.

Peggy Gearing up to lead pitch 4. Some of you skateboard aficionado’s may recognize Peggy from Dogtown and Z- boys. Besides being a cool person to hang out with, Peggy is also an environmentalist and talented artist who is not afraid to take on the sharp end.

Banks checks the topo map.

Peggy working her way up pitch 4.

Yours truly running the belay. What a poser!

There are absolutely no rest stops on pitch 4. Set gear, smear and go up. Where you see my foot is the first rest the entire pitch. This is just below the off width #4 cam placement and then it is run out “The Great White Book” style 30 ft to the top of pitch 4.

Back on the sharp end I took to the run out face with gusto. Yaaaaaaaaaaaa! It took me a little time to work out the sequence off of the first bolt. The secret was to traverse to a water groove lower than the bolt. Here my team members follow the 5th pitch.

The final pitch splitter crack will make any climber drool with lust. I begged Banks to let me lead and he conceded. He had taken his first surf lesson Friday and was sore from the exercise. Lucky me. Check this bad boy out.

We reached the summit in style and had a GOLD MEDAL day. OMG I’m late for the medal ceremony!


A tasty Sierra Nevada tops off a perfect day of climbing.

Check out the shadow the wizard makes on the sorcerer. Could this be the Romantic Warrior? Who is the figure on the right?



Trad climber
Aug 20, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
Nice TR. And bump for Peggy Oki.

Trad climber
Aug 20, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
Looks really fun. Thanks for posting!


Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Aug 20, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
That baby's on my ticklist now. Looks sweet!
handsome B

Gym climber
Aug 20, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
thanks for the TR!


Aug 20, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
Thx for the great TR!

I did WPOD a while back...

'Nice Route!

 ec LOL

edit: DM I have some wide angle shots looking down on someone leading the corner. With the wide angle it looks bizarre!
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
Aug 20, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
Cool pic's, and nice TR,

Only been up to Demon from the bottom, now I have to get up to WPOD


Aug 20, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
been a while, thanks for the pics. it's a really fun route.

when I did it, a "guide" behind us with two clients decided to do the route with a 55 meter rope and had to do some 'xplainin as his clients had to break down every belay prior to setting up a new one above.

East of Seattle
Aug 20, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
Thanks for posting. Great TR!

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Aug 20, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
That was one of the first multi-pitch routes I ever did, and it's still one of the best. Thanks for a good TR to bring back memories.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 20, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Aug 20, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
Great TR! thanks - gotta get down there.

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 20, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
great pics and stuff,
such nice stone, making me homesick...

Trad climber
east bay, CA
Aug 20, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
When I was a noob many centuries ago, Eddie Joe (FA) made me go do WPOD. Mighty fine. I should go back again. The splitter crack at the top is too sweet not to repeat.

Trad climber
Aug 20, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
Thanks for posting.

Cardiff by the sea
Aug 20, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
Peggy Oki? Is that the Dogtown chick?

Me and my bro were just discusing going climbing up there soon, how are the tempretures for climbing right now?

Thanks for the cool pics and report.

Cardiff by the sea
Aug 20, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
I guess I could have clicked the link you posted haha!

Aug 20, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
nice work!
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Aug 20, 2008 - 10:05pm PT

Aug 20, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
Props from Moderate Masters everywhere! That fourth pitch corner alone is worth the price of admission.
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