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Trad climber
Jul 22, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
Some crackers get real cranky about their TP I guess.

Far off places where I left lipstick traces...
Jul 22, 2008 - 10:03pm PT

That was hysterical! You hardly knew the guy and you two "broke up"!

Trad climber
New York, NY
Jul 22, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
A good story, well told. At least you got that out of the day!

Trad climber
Apple Valley, California
Jul 22, 2008 - 11:03pm PT
I'll climb with you MisterE.
I WILL bring my OWN TP, amd ALL my Lockers!!!

Double D

Jul 22, 2008 - 11:26pm PT
Now that was funny, way funny.
mark miller

Social climber
Jul 22, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
Yo E,( wow grammer, a comma) you can take the "Bitch" outta the park but you can't take the park outta the "bitch" .... More Lockers and 1/2"er's on everything....( phucking C#&%....))) Stop showin' us pitch's with your "freind" undressed.......My elbow already hurts....Love and kisses bro.

Trad climber
Jul 23, 2008 - 12:51am PT
I see these clowns all over the place.

Not really sure if they know what the adventure aspect of climbing is about.

Gym type stuff.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 23, 2008 - 08:13am PT

Sounds like the date from hell! Did you untie while he
rapped from those 1/4"ers? I sure hope so!

See ya at Facelift--are you gonna bring Tigger?
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Jul 23, 2008 - 08:32am PT
I was half way through that story when all of a sudden I had to take a big sh#t.

Not there
Jul 23, 2008 - 08:50am PT
Send the boy some diapers as a thank you gift!
Dr. Rock, you shouldn't be taking breaks from ST. Dang it man, this is important!


Social climber
My Inner Nut
Jul 23, 2008 - 10:06am PT
LOL, Dwain! Glad you're tied in! Now do the route you're geared up for:

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Jul 23, 2008 - 10:14am PT
Good one E.


Trad climber
Jul 23, 2008 - 10:30am PT
Awesome story. His choice of a manky ass anchor on the way down is by far the capstone. I truly can't imagine how livid you must've been when you saw those gleaming metolius rap rings! LOL!

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Jul 23, 2008 - 11:37am PT
I don't know about your specifics, but I had to deal with noob partner rapping to a bogus anchor (two 1/4" ones with ~15" rust beards), with the proper anchor being higher and on the other side of a modest arete (slightly out of view, but come on!).

I swung over to let him grab the "pull tail", and made the dumbass clip into the end with a locker. I then got to my anchor and pulled and re-threaded it through the "real anchor, temporarily clove hitching his strand to fix it. He had to take a small "ride" to get plumb, and then single strand rapped to the ground.

East Coast US
Jul 23, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
Doesn't everyone have a story like this?

I had one guy run off to take a crap while I was runout on 5.9 terrain in the Gunks. Fortunately, he tied me off with enough slack so I could rope-solo to a stance or hit the ground, whichever came first. I made the stance as I ran out of rope.

I had another guy belay me up a 5.11 pitch @ Skytop [before the place closed]. When I reached his stance I saw that he was belaying me with a munter hitch on a non-locking carabiner. And then I watch the munter hitch unclip itself. the pitch was only 60' long. It's not like he couldn't lower an end of the rope to get decent belay gear. I would have been happier with a waist belay, which I've both caught and been caught on lead falls with.

The guy in the above situation [munter hitch] also setup a hanging belay off a 1/4" bolt on P5 of the Freeblast becasue he had a lot of rope drag. It's the one off left after the overlap. I, unknowingly, happily jugged up thinking that I would get to a decent belay. Then we're both hanging off this 1/4" manker! I actually took pictures of this belay setup so the rangers would be able to figure out what happened, not that it would have been difficult, and notify our families on exactly how dumb we were. I don't know how we survived this. And I'm kind of surprised that he's still alive. Needless to say, I've stopped climbing with him.


Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Jul 23, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
Great story!

I guess I've been fortunate with partners, that and there is something to be said for soloing.

Jul 23, 2008 - 01:36pm PT
Thanks for the laughs, E.

Pick-a-partner keeps its rep intact!

Trad climber
Jul 23, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
Im sure you guys have seen the "Epic Mike" story that was on the climbing websites a few months ago, Its a pretty good laugh.
Found via google.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 23, 2008 - 02:46pm PT
Hi Eric,
yeah, pretty questionable what we will do; putting our lives in stranger's hands just to get high.

Once Bjornstad sent this wall nOOb out to me who wanted to do Prodigal. He couldn't lead any aid yet, but except for the last aid pitch could jug OK and only dropped about 6 pieces cleaning.
With the final 5.7 chimney above us he is whining about wanting to lead.
I finally relented but told him explicitly to go 80' to the belay bolts and no farther or we won't be able to communicate and that carrying all the gear I WAS GOING TO JUG.
He questioned this but I confirmed that I didn't want to chimney with a pack and all the gear and had already done the pitch 10 times so he should fix the rope.

Sooooo, .. 80' of rope goes out.
Then more.
Then more.

I yell up he is going to far.

Rocks come down.
Muffled yells.


Muffled yells.
More rope goes out.

Muffled yells.
More rocks.

About a half hour after all the rope is out (and he doesn't seem to want to give any back besides muffled yells) I just start to jug.

When I get to the edge he sees me and says that HE CAN'T HOLD ME MUCH LONGER!!!!!

Turns out he decided that if a pitch went free then despite our specific agreement a second was not allowed to jug and was obligated to free it, so he had me on a (poor) belay and had thought I fell but was having trouble holding me and was about to let go.

Good thing I wasn't strapped or I'd have put him out of my misery after clipping in.

(anybody do a wall with this guy?)

Trad climber
the south
Jul 23, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
good grief ronbo, that sucks.
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