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Scott1E
Trad climber
Concord, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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I'm a moderate climber (though my climbing buddies assure me I'm much less) in the Bay Area and search out all the beta I can get my hands on whenever attempting a Valley climb, taking advantage of SuperTopo and the forum. Except for the sparse info in the Falcon Guide, I can't find anything like this for my local rock -- Diablo, Pinnacles, North Bay, Consumnes, etc. Anybody know of any other resources? Been thinking about suggesting a Bay Area Supertopo. Anybody else think it worthwhile?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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May 15, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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This Man knows....Go to the Valley, it's worth the drive.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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May 16, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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There's a pretty detailed guide for Cosumnes :
Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA
William H. Cottrell
El Dorado Publishing, 2003
ISBN 1-891119-04-4
Got mine at Pyramid Peak Outfitters in Placerville: (530) 626-3553. I believe the Folsom REI also carries it.
bayareaclimbers.com has info about the sandstone stuff up on Skyline (peninsula), eg. Castle Rock state park. IMO The slideshows and book reviews are good.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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May 16, 2008 - 12:24am PT
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Alright man, here is the shit:
Surprisingly, Bouldering88 is pretty much spot on...
Here it is in order of proximity/quality
1. Berkeley Rocks- lots of eliminates but has Nat's traverse. Work this and you WILL be strong.
2. Mickey's Beach- Bouldery routes. Good bouldering. Kept me entertained. Plus it's on the beach.
3. Castle Rock- Good bouldering. So, so routes.
4. Table Mountain- 119 miles (exactly!) from Berkeley. This is where you go to climb splitter (basalt! actually it's something else but, whatever...) cracks and chossy, but good sport climbs.
5. Yosemite Valley- No description needed. It's intimidating at first, but just go and do it. You WILL have fun.
6. The rest is just bullsh#t, don't even bother...just go to the gym...seriously.
7. Actually...Putah Creek is good if you are strong. The Sonoma coast has AWESOME bouldering.
8. Mt. St. Helena is good for a day.
9. Tahoe- LOOONG drive for a day trip. Good climbing.
The Bay Area pretty much has good bouldering, and that's about it as far as climbing goes...
edit: Table Mtn. is Latite.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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May 16, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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Not worth it ever? EVER? Maybe if you can't boulder V5...There are a couple (and by a couple I literally mean TWO) classic harder problems there.
Putah is good maybe once or twice. The real shitkicker is Vacaville. I can;t believe I actually dragged myself out there twice!
Now, Ft. Ross...is that one boulder worth the drive? I say yes.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 16, 2008 - 02:14am PT
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There aren't many highly detailed guides to those areas because they are all pretty small.
That said, there are some good climbs scattered here and there.
St. helena has some good stuff.
Vacaville has some good bouldering. It tends to be a bit spread out though. I'm not sure how some people can like putah but not VV, as it's the same kind of rock, vacaville just has 20x as much.
Pinnacles is good in winter, and Sonora has lots of great climbing. Both these areas have guides by Brad Young.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 16, 2008 - 02:36am PT
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what a bunch of old ladies.. we should all be so lucky to live in El Portal or Chamonix
there is a supertopo Bay Area Bouldering
Jim Thornburg did Bay Area Rock, Potlicker Press in 2001
Chris Summit did Wine Country Rocks for bouldering mostly
St Helena has new routes all the time, but you gotta get off the track to find them. They are all 5.10-12 sport routes.
Seriously good bouldering on the Sonoma Coast.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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Tahoe too far for a day trip? Wish you hadn't told me, Ive been make the 2.25 hour (each way) trip from Berkeley to Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires, Donner (and about the same to Table Mtn/Grotto) at least once a month and far more frequently before my kid came along. Consumnes? Stay in the car for another 30-40 minutes and get up 50 to far better locales?
My strategy - find a local sh*t pile to stay fit on (don't like gyms), drive to Tahoe, etc. often. ST for the Bay Area would simply be a repeat of the Bay Area Climbing book that (sadly) covers it
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 16, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Man I'm glad I started climbing in the Bay Area before I knew how much it sucked. You have no clue how good you have it.
Sounds like the only thing lacking is motivation. You have rock, roads to get to it, guide books, a rich climbing history and plenty of good weather. Not to mention the valley, sierras etc within reach of a long day or a weekend trip.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 16, 2008 - 02:17pm PT
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I don't understand why so many people diss Skyline Blvd and Castle Rock State Park. It definately no Valley or Lover's Leap, but if you live here and can't make it out of town, it's pretty nice.
Nice hike, outdoor well-bolted routes. Beats the gym anyday, and you can drink beer!
Bruce Morris (who posts here) has a good book for the area titled."Rock Climber's Guide to Skyline Blvd"
If you haven't checked out the climbs, I'd highly recommend it.
I can even guide you around some of the better routes. If I'm in town, that's where I'm usually at on weekends. Look for the guy drinking Heineken's in a can (no bottles allowed).
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
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The problem (or a problem I have) with Castle rock is that for climbing - as opposed to bouldering - so many routes are one move wonders. 60 feet of 5.5 to two feet of 10c, etc. Not to say I haven't really enjoyed bolstering my ego out there from time to time. Also, the setting really can't be beat even if the climbing isn't the quality that 2.5 hours in a car can get you. For me (in Berkeley) its also quite far for what it is......same for the original poster from concord.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 17, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Anybody climbing up on Skyline today? I'm weak in the partner department again...I should just buy a bouldering pad, I'm thinking.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
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Bay Area climbing will do in a pinch, Castle can be fun in its own way. I always loved Putah when I was in Davis, not so far, good problems, taco truck, interesting rock.
The true answer for Bay Area types, is you have to quit your job and move. The drive to real climbing will limit climbing to one weekend a month, if you are moderately motivated. Very Motivated, maybe twice a month.
I know, there may be stretches where you do more, but over the long hual, nothing beats living close to the crags. It's 9:00 in the morning, I'm writing on Supertopo drinking coffee. I am going to climb splitter brilliance at Cardinal Pinaacle today and I am in no hurry.
That being said, nobody dissed glen canyon or the ever classic Beaver Street wall.
Tom
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
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No one has dissed those yet, you are right!
Let me be the first! I don't like them!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 17, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
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Tom, you suck and I envy you....
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
PDX, OR
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May 17, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
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I'm going to Indian Rock today.
I think Mortar Rock is one of the most underappreciated climbing resources in the entire state.
Zero approach, in the city, in nice park setting, beautiful view. Problems of all grades from V0 to VSharma-hasn't-done-it-yet.
Nat's Traverse. I will never get bored with this thing. I will definitely miss it when I move.
Only drawback is that the place is SHARP!
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yosguns
climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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There's some finger cracks in the retaining walls at Ocean Beach. Went there one night with DRC. Don't need a pad and you're right on the water, in the city. Fun for an evening with some good beer and a six pack of company. ;-) If you go to the cafe for something, you should escape across the street and check it out.
Drive to the Valley's not THAT bad, is it? Admittedly, the first time I made the drive alone was only a couple weeks ago and have just about proved the tom woods 1-2 times/month ratio since February. Pinnacles are fun, but doesn't change the fact that gas prices suck, they're not in the Bay, and the tom woods ratio STILL applies.
Bottom line: more motivation OR I'm up to go in on a commune somewhere in like Bootjack, working remotely... Anyone interested??
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 17, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Allez, you're a fag! I wou;d've climbed with you today...a-hole, Get up earlier and let's do it next time...ass-hat!
Serious...let's do it! I'm goin' tomorrow if you want a piece of this!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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first get the new guidebook by Brad Young
Let us know!