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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2005 - 03:34am PT
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Have you heard of this rout it looks like a good grade V 5.9 A2 just left of Cosmic Trauma which is just left of Space Shot. Oh yeah, what is that direct finish to Space shot with bolt anchors and all?
Any other upper canyon grade Vs you can think of that are not so well known?
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Rudyj
Trad climber
Wasatch Range, Utah
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Jan 29, 2005 - 10:14am PT
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Never done Moon Patrol, and I don't know any one who has. I used to spend quite a bit of time in Zion and I remember hearing from someone or somewhere that it was a pile of crap and don't waste your time. It may have been a comment in the collection of topos in the visitor center. Anyways, I am sure that this probably doesn't help but just thought I would mention it.
Some other Zion routes that don't get done much.
Cordillera Dreams V 5.8 A2+. Located up canyon from Moonlight Buttress on the same wall, past Swoop, Gimp (also a good route).
Pretty good climb, interesting chimneys, good free climbing, mostly moderate clean aid, only one pitch of nailing; beaks placed in drilled holes to pass a blank section. Last two pitches are 4th or easy 5th, but the hauling is horrible. Topo is in the visitor center.
Haven't done these routes but I hear good things.
Belly of the Buddha. V 5.10 A2+? Very striking line to the right of the Streaked wall on a clean red wall with a splitter straight up the middle. Long appraoch, and many bushy opening pitches but the headwall looks sweet. Topo is in the visitor center.
The Temptress V A3+. Backcountry bigwall. No further beta available. It is located in Spry canyon, another very striking line with an exposed, thin nailing crux. See if you can find it. No topo available.
Zion is full of undocumented Big wall routes. Many first ascentionists in Zion don't publish and sometimes don't name their routes. Adventure rules.
Peace, Rudy.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 14, 2005 - 02:46pm PT
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Not one of my best routes due to inconsistent crack sizes.
When it gets cleaned up it will probably be a IV or IV+.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2005 - 07:45pm PT
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Whats up with swoop gimp???????????????
Do you need to nail?
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Feb 17, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
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Swoop Gimp goes clean, but it's quite difficult. The 3rd & 4th pitches are the hardest. On the 4th you must place gear in a thin roof crack. I did it before it had been done clean. We placed like 7 pins in all. This is a great route by the way. Up high, there are some cool bivy ledges. It's also a good route to fix & fire.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2005 - 02:40am PT
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SOunds good thank you
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brentbarghahn
Trad climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Feb 20, 2018 - 07:12am PT
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Moon Patrol goes clean at 5.10 C2+. One thin C2(+?) aid pitch down low using microcams and RPs. Some mandatory 5.10R to avoid nailing higher up.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 20, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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It was cool being on a new route on a wall that had never been soloed, but the route I put up later that month on the Witch, Midnight Rider, was a far superior experience, and in a sense the location was cooler without the parade of motor vehicles.
I've gone back and repeated it twice.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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