Climbing around Wawona?

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punjab

Gym climber
oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 10, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
Is there any?
Big T

Trad climber
Running Springs, CA
Apr 10, 2008 - 10:18pm PT
Wawona Dome. Long hike. Rarely visited. If you can, try to find a copy of Mark Spencer's "Southern Yosemite" guidebook

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/103-7224880-1632603?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=southern+yosemite+spencer&x=0&y=0
Erik Sloan

climber
Apr 10, 2008 - 10:28pm PT
Yeah, there is some fun stuff around here. Putting together a wawona tr but still a ways off so I'll give ya a couple tidbits. Here's an approach map to wawona dome(some route beta at rockclimbing.com) that also shows a couple smaller crags at the end of the town.
http://www.cherylalbrecht.com/wawonamap.pdf

There is some fun bouldering scattered around town and also a well known 30' boulder with a 5.9 crack out on the meadow loop trail across from the hotel.

Oaktown is a lower angle Swan slab with a couple 5.7s and 8s and a couple easier topropes. Mike thinks the Oak tree at the base is over four hundred years old. Sweet Mama!

The Wawona dome approach hike is about an hour. Parking in the right spot helps. It's sunny and glorious up there with five and six pitch routes--mostly 5.10 but a couple easier ones too. You can walk off to the left side of the dome or rap down the middle with one 60m rope.

anyway, stay posted and I'll put up a proper trip report within a month.
best
e

ps. Karl Baba has lived here for 20 years, never been to Wawona dome and says the rest is all junk.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
Mark Spencer's guidebook is back in print, so it should be easy to get a copy. Here's a list of routes in the Wawona area, mostly straight from that guidebook, with a few more added.

Wawona Area

Mortar Rock (roadside bouldering)

11. MR A 5.3
12. MR B 5.10a
13. MR Bv 5.9
14. MR C 5.7
15. MR D 5.6
16. MR E 5.8
17. MR F 5.10b
18. MR G 5.4
19. MR H 5.6
20. MR I 5.9
21. MR J 5.8

East Mortar Rock (20')

22. EMR A 5.8
23. EMR B 5.7
24. EMR Bv 5.9
25. EMR C 5.7
26. EMR Cv 5.4

Powerline Rock

27. Electron 5.7, NW corner
28. High Voltage 5.10c, W face
29. Power Failure 5.11a, mantle on road side

The Sphinx

30. Sphinx Crack 5.10a

Lower Falls (60')

31. Hanging Garden Crack 5.8
32. Circus of Values 5.9

Angel Wings

33. Angel Wings 5.11b

Icehouse (100')

34. Atlas 5.10b, formerly Pilgrims Progress
35. Old and Wise 5.8
36. Yellow Banana 5.10b
37. Cornerstone 5.11a
38. Thompson Harmonizer 5.10a
39. Good Copy 5.11a, thin crack to ow, 15' R of TH
40. Nubbs 5.11c tr
41. Double or Nothing 5.7
42. Galt's Gulch 5.9
43. Atlantis 5.11b
44. Color Me Gone 5.10a, 200' R of Atlantis

N1984 Rock

45. Big Brother Face - Left 5.7, arete
46. Big Brother Face - Center 5.8
47. Big Brother Face - Right 5.8, descent
48. Doublethink 5.11a, arete
49. Newspeak 5.11c, mantle
50. Lieback Detector 5.8
51. Thought Police 5.8

The Pyramid

52. Pyramania 5.11a tr

Oldsquaw

53. Oldsquaw A 5.4
54. Oldsquaw B 5.8
55. Oldsquaw C 5.10d

Swinging Bridge Slabs

56. Camp Time 5.7, 2nd tier, face to flake to small tree, 1x
57. Pee On Buddha 5.10d, arete, 2x, 15' R of Camp Time

Wawona Dome - North Wall

58. Chulook 5.9, RFC, 3p
59. Boulevard of Dreams 5.8, bolted face, 3p
60. Miwok 5.7, RFC, 3p

Wawona Dome

61. Hazy Days 5.10a, 4p
62. Welcome to Wawona 5.9, 4p
63. Garden Party 5.10a, starts on ledge, out right of Welcome to Wawona
64. Cream of the Crop 5.11a, 3p, p1: 5.11a thin crack, p2: 5.11a 11x, p3: easy
65. Hollow Wallow 5.7, 100' slab, down and R from Hazy Days
66. Blue Moon 5.11b, 8p
67. Broke Bloke 5.10b, 5p, 60m ropes, p1-2: 5.8, p5: 5.7, crosses Blue Moon
68. Bird in Flight 5.11c, R of Blue Moon, directly to long roof, L or R of BB?

River Rock (35')

69. Worm Squirm 5.4
70. On The Edge 5.9 tr
71. Alcove Overhang 5.7
72. Green Slime 5.6
73. Wise Crack 5.10a
74. Firefly 5.11a tr

Mushroom Rock

75. MU A 5.3
76. Sleeping Moss 5.8
77. Turning Green 5.10c
78. Chute Out 5.1
79. MU E 5.3
80. MU F 5.8+, mantle on knobs only
81. MU G 5.8, mantle in corner
82. MU H 5.8+, mantle
83. MU I 5.9, mantle
84. MU J 5.9, mantle/lieback
85. MU K 5.9, mantle on small knobs
86. MU L 5.8, mantle on small knobs

Meadow Rock

87. Bad Animal 5.9+
88. Lieback Route 5.10c tr
89. Hula Hoop 5.10c tr
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 10, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
Hour approach to Wawona Dome? I'd be ashamed if I believed that but then I should be ashamed anyway.

I live in Wawona and can only sigh when I see that huge list of moderate climbs and yet, somehow I feel, none of it is worth bothering with.

I mean, maybe if you're just hot, hot, hot to trot and there's no way for you to get to the valley.

I'd complain about it but since the valley is only 40 minutes away, I better shut up.

Peace

karl

Edit: that's a great map. I'll have to hunt down Oaktown!
Erik Sloan

climber
Apr 10, 2008 - 11:03pm PT
one edit for the map--the trees shown where the trail goes to Oaktown fell down recently, so the trail is now right between some recently fallen trees.

An easy hour Karl--knowing the way it only takes me and any friend 45-50 minutes to get to wawona dome. Pure stairmaster though, for sure.

I'm with Karl that the list that Clint posted is optimistic(read many 20 ft boulder problems are being called climbs).



punjab

Gym climber
oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
Nice! Never imagined such great responses, I owe you guys some beer. I might be living in wawona and was a little worried that i would have to drive to the valley to get a fix. Thanks again and see you around.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 12, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
Had a pow-wow with Nanook and I'm sure I'll be heading up to Wawona Dome asap. I might have to eat crow!

Peace

Karl
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Oct 26, 2009 - 11:51am PT

Hey Clint, I only found a 1988 printing of Mark Spencer's guidebook. Is there a newer one?
ChampionSleeper

Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
Oct 26, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
I highly, highly recommend the Becky-Romanowitz Route on Wawona Dome. ~5.9-10a. Classic but easy wide lie-backing, sweet finger crack (p1), interesting slab, and classic knob/chicken head face climbing. 4 pitches I think.

Not sure exactly how to describe where it lies on the dome, but the image link below shows the very distinctive 1st pitch (left facing, low angle, wide corner).

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/P1_of_the_Beckey_Route_on_Wawona_Dome_81548.html
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 26, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
Steve,

The Spencer "Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs" book was first printed in 1988. It was out of print for a long time, then it was reprinted in 2006 or so. The 2006 printing has exactly the same inside contents, and about the only difference is a bar code on the back cover.
morrorockrat

Trad climber
Los Osos
Apr 25, 2015 - 11:10am PT
anybody climbing around Wawona campground April 29th- 30th? I need a climbing partner! Casey (310) 980-2086 Thanks!
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