the real meltdown....1986


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2008 - 09:02am PT
not to burst Beth's bubble but....
heres the real "meltdown". back side of pywiack dome..

this is the first route i did on this wall with Al Dude in 1986...
A short layback to a steep black streak. i think i placed 3 bolts (1 hook and 2 stance) and it was very exciting. I had just learned how to hook and drill the week before on black out and now a whole new world of FA was open to me...


Mar 7, 2008 - 11:20am PT
bump for trad FA

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 7, 2008 - 11:21am PT
Good shot (and route).

Thanks for all the great routes over the years...

Duplicated route names is yet another part of our great sport. This isn't the first time - won't be the last time this happens.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2008 - 11:49am PT
meltdown is what happens to most of us in our days of sending.. i'm sure there are lots of "meltdown" stories so post em if you got em...
for me this was the opening of the steep lines that i had always looked at but did not have the skills to drill...
thanks to bachar for opening that door for me!

Monument Manor
Mar 7, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
Yo Kurt - No doubt , the REAL Meltdown!! Who took that pic - Bachar? Funny.......I put up a route (trad) over near the Punchbowl (6 pitches,10d w/Brians Bailey & Bennet) in 84' called Punchline. Well we both know the drama that ensued 3 years later when a certain well known Arch Rock route was rechristened w/that moniker!!

A few Meltdown fun facts :

11d X ***
Dana Hauser also participated
Named with the still lingering Soviet calamity in mind
2nd ascent - Mo Linsky&Co
Picture shows a nice profile view of the soon to be popular European Vacation 13b.....not trad!
I have slides of you on the " decker " hook placement near the top ..............Zone 3 baby!!

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 7, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
A few years back when I'd just started climbing with my (girlfriend then, now) wife, we were at J-Tree and I'm headed up Taxman on IRS Rock. Somehow I get all jacked up about 15' off the deck and I'm sort of horizontally situated on the rock with my fingers in the crack and my feet way high to the left. I should add my wife is runnin' about 110 or 115 lbs and I'm pullin' a duece or better. Also worth noting is that my wife had never caught me in a full-on lead fall up to that point.

Anyways, things get all desperate in short order and I end up looking down at her and calmly saying, "I'm really sorry about this..." She looks up with sort of intrigued look on her face and says "About what?" about the same time I come piling off the thing. She still laughs about that giant meltodown on my part.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
Al dude..
Man what a good memory! Dana took these shots!
Those were some good times in the 80's..
to bad it is a museum climb now!

Jun 14, 2014 - 01:15am PT

Jun 14, 2014 - 05:13am PT
Indeed. Nice find.


Trad climber
Jun 14, 2014 - 05:45am PT
Where is Al Dude these days? I miss drinking coffee with that guy.

Jun 14, 2014 - 06:35am PT
Been just over a year since the kid passed. Thanks for the remebrance bump. Sorry I never tied in with Lucas. Seemed like a great guy.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:35am PT
Been just over a year since the kid passed.


Jun 14, 2014 - 07:45am PT
Different kid? Sorry if I mixed em up.

Jun 14, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
So does this thing still get climbed or what?
Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo Videos

Recent Route Beta