Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2008 - 09:02am PT
not to burst Beth's bubble but....
heres the real "meltdown". back side of pywiack dome..
this is the first route i did on this wall with Al Dude in 1986...
A short layback to a steep black streak. i think i placed 3 bolts (1 hook and 2 stance) and it was very exciting. I had just learned how to hook and drill the week before on black out and now a whole new world of FA was open to me...
meltdown is what happens to most of us in our days of sending.. i'm sure there are lots of "meltdown" stories so post em if you got em...
for me this was the opening of the steep lines that i had always looked at but did not have the skills to drill...
thanks to bachar for opening that door for me!
Yo Kurt - No doubt , the REAL Meltdown!! Who took that pic - Bachar? Funny.......I put up a route (trad) over near the Punchbowl (6 pitches,10d w/Brians Bailey & Bennet) in 84' called Punchline. Well we both know the drama that ensued 3 years later when a certain well known Arch Rock route was rechristened w/that moniker!!
A few Meltdown fun facts :
11d X ***
Dana Hauser also participated
Named with the still lingering Soviet calamity in mind
2nd ascent - Mo Linsky&Co
Picture shows a nice profile view of the soon to be popular European Vacation 13b.....not trad!
I have slides of you on the " decker " hook placement near the top ..............Zone 3 baby!!
A few years back when I'd just started climbing with my (girlfriend then, now) wife, we were at J-Tree and I'm headed up Taxman on IRS Rock. Somehow I get all jacked up about 15' off the deck and I'm sort of horizontally situated on the rock with my fingers in the crack and my feet way high to the left. I should add my wife is runnin' about 110 or 115 lbs and I'm pullin' a duece or better. Also worth noting is that my wife had never caught me in a full-on lead fall up to that point.
Anyways, things get all desperate in short order and I end up looking down at her and calmly saying, "I'm really sorry about this..." She looks up with sort of intrigued look on her face and says "About what?" about the same time I come piling off the thing. She still laughs about that giant meltodown on my part.