Lee Vining Ice Climbing needs your help

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Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 2, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
The 2008 season in the Eastern Sierra is noticeably different, with numerous road closures and poor plowing on the State HWY's . The Poole Plant Rd to Lee Vining Canyon has not been plowed even after many stormless days making access to California's Ice Mecca very difficult, if not impossible.

Please call or email, Evan Nikirk: Mono County Public Works Boss and let him know that as a visitor to Mono County this affects your decision to come to Mono County (and stay in the Motels, eat in the restaurants, etc),

Evan Nikirk enikirk@mono.ca.gov, (760) 932-5440

Doug Nidever
Brian

climber
Cali
Feb 3, 2008 - 01:40am PT
Doug,

I'll definitely write, but I have a second question/issue for you...

It's also a less-than-stellar year in Lee Vining (especially after two or three pretty great years). Any truth to the persistent rumors of plugged leaks from the pipe above the climbs? Or are these routes more dependent on 'natural' water, so to speak?

Brian
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Feb 3, 2008 - 01:47am PT
Yea I will drop a line as well.


To bad something coudn't be worked out with the powers that be to farm some ice from that water source in the canyon. There sure is some potential for some big lines on the lower part of the canyon with some strategic plumbing.
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Feb 3, 2008 - 09:02am PT
This is the Bard-Harrington in early Jan. Dry as a bone. Rumors are true. Plugged holes-no water-no ice.

Chouinard Falls. Ice not a lot but in and climbable.

Central Falls, again a bit thin but there.
Tony
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
Yes there is truth to the rumor re: the leaky penstock. Edison did do their maintainence run this last summer and they tightened up all the leaky joints they could find, thus totally eliminating the Bard-Harrington, and greatly affecting the Main Wall and Chouinard Falls.

Add to that, currently impassable travel on the Poole Plant Rd. and our formerly great ice venue is in very poor shape.

Doug
marky

climber
Feb 3, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
The question worth answering is: what is the economic value of having the leaks (to ice climbers), and what is the economic cost (to Edison)? If the former is greater than the latter, then Edison should be willing to get paid off to have leaks.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 3, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
how about approaching Edison to make a tap?
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Feb 3, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
Yes, that seems reasonable to me. Why not have taps just for that purpose for winter to make the famous ice when the temps are cold enough, and when it warms up and no more chance for ice for the season, and for summer time, keep them locked and closed.

Edison has to understand the historic value, how well known and used the Lee Vining ice is, and how great it would be for the region and tourism, not to mention the money that it does bring into the region as a result.

Seems to me it would be a no brainer.

Perhaps the locals with the help of the Access Fund can make it happen, with plenty of written in help from all of us who have climbed there.
WBraun

climber
Feb 3, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
"Edison has to understand the historic value ....?"

Oh I'm such a bad boy .... but anyways here goes, maybe you all will get pissed? Hahaha

Why should they give a sh'it about a few climbers monkeying around on some ice? They're running a Utility not a sports event.

Hi Doug ....
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Feb 3, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
WB,

Because they want to be good neighbors, and they have been raking in record profits. All enegy companies have.

My tenant works for Edison in the office in Bishop, maybe I should talk to her and ask her who she knows that can make these kinds of decisions at Edison.

Even the Chamber of Commerce in Bishop giving out all kinds of free info for tourist activities, celebrates the ice climbing in Lee Vining.

I think ultimately they will have a fight on their hands, and it can be proven that climbers have been using the site since the late 60's? Anyone know when Lee Vining ice was first climbed? Historical use, all the way up to the very active current use, not to mention all the climbing guides/schools who use it.

We have alot to ammo to fight with.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Feb 3, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
how about approaching the pipe to make a tap? heh heh
cjain

Mountain climber
Lake Forest, CA
Feb 4, 2008 - 12:45am PT
Contacting the Mono County Board of Supervisors might be helpful also.

(Thanks, Tom. I edited this post to correct the county.)
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Feb 4, 2008 - 11:57am PT
bump for Doug :)
10b4me

climber
1/2way between Yos and Moab
Feb 4, 2008 - 12:07pm PT
was just up there this weekend. the road was not plowed, so we walked in from the gate. weather was stormy, and avy danger questionable. consequently, no climbing was done by the majority of our group.

I think it would behoove Mono County, and the LV chamber of commerce to work with Edison to work out a plan that works both of Edison, and the affected economies.

Ironically, as we sat around a motel room. we discussed why more ice farming wasn't done in California. Maybe get some advice from the folks in Ouray.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
Feb 4, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
I figure there are some guys in Utah who could help us out.
We should get either Jeff Lowe out here to civilly "organize" Cali's new ice park; or Piton Ron to bring his famed weapons cache and take up target shooting from across the canyon. ha
10b4me

climber
1/2way between Yos and Moab
Feb 4, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
I figure there are some guys in Utah who could help us out.
We should get either Jeff Lowe out here to civilly "organize" Cali's new ice park
.

so how do we make this happen?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 4, 2008 - 03:35pm PT
I think you have to look at the model established in Ouray with their ice park. I think they formed a nonprofit, garnered support from local businesses that benefitted from ice climbers, etc, etc. The Access Fund may have some info on how such things generally work.

This scenario might be a little different though in that (and I'm guessing this to be the case), Ouray may have been municipal land whereas the Canyon (or access to it and the water for the floes) is owned by Edison.

I think there may be a lot of beauracracy to wade thru but crazier things have happened.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2008 - 04:08pm PT
We live in CA and there is NO WAY that a big company will take on the liability of "creating" ice climbs here, to many dirt-bag attorneys per capita.

But we can still expect Mono County would value the tourist economy enough to keep the road plowed.

Doug

Hi Werner, do keep us informed when the Ditch Ice appears, (actually, can you call me first, before putting on the web)

Fattrad, I've started the committee, send the Grand to POB 446, June Lake, CA 93529
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Feb 4, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
My guess is that a successful ice park will only happen if there is strong support from both the local community and from climbing community. Cooperation between the parties (local community, local business, climbers, and the utility co.) is ultimately the only way to achieve success.

As all seem to agree, this presents a monumental task that has been accomplished only once in Ouray (Ouray is great- they loved ice climbers even before there was a park).

Seems to me that having a bunch of out of town climbers send angry letters to the local representative demanding they plow the road (spend government $) is not the best way to start such a project.

Neither is insulting attorneys, which you will need to accomplish the goal (pro bono of course) many of which climb and have the connections/donations you will need to make something like this happen.

Just my 2 cents
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 4, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
Kind of have to agree with Mick K on this one Doug. Given that your livelihood is tied in part to accessing this area, one would hope that you'd be a bit more diplomatic in your efforts to enlist some help, not hurl insults. The "dirt bags" in the suits are probably going to be your biggest guns, not the dirt bags in Camp 4. It's going to be a long process and you're going to have to bring a lot of different people together, not drive them apart.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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