What's left to do in the Sierras?

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dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2004 - 11:24am PT
Yeah really, those pics in the gallery are nice, I was talking to Problem Pappy about it, found out you can pretty much avoid ice and snow and still summit there, about 2k feet, so, how far do you have to go to do something worthwhile (any grade decent free climb) that has not been done?

A couple of years ago Croft gave a talk about climbing along ridges, I think he was talking about the Sierras, and it seems I remember he said there was a lot left to do, but maybe I'm fuzzy.

Anyway, if I keep looking at those pics, I'll actually have to get in reasonable shape and go west.

Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Dec 30, 2004 - 12:43pm PT
Exploration is just beginning.

Just off the top of my head:

Wall of 100 cracks.

Most lines on the S. Face of Lone Pine Peak

at least 3 or 4 more lines on the E. Face of Whitney, and more lines in the N. Fork of Lone Pine Creek than you can shake a stick at.

Ruby Wall.

Dinkey Creek.

A route about every 10 feet or so on the Sequoia Obelisk.

4 or 5 more routes on the N. Face of Mt. Chamberlin.

Bath Mountain.

Whorl Mountain.

Balloon Dome, many routes to be done from the middle fork of the San Joaq.

Huge walls on and around Tehipite Dome.

And I only bother to list all these because they're things I won't have time to get around to doing.

Brutus
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 30, 2004 - 12:58pm PT
Many mega classic lines left to do the Incredible Hulk. But most will probably be 5.12 or harder. Many left to do on the walls above Arctic Lakes which is behind Whitney and Russel.

no point in really listing any more because there is soooooo much left to do everywhere. Go to any peak and there will be something new to do.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 30, 2004 - 01:09pm PT
here is a shot of the one of the artic wall. galen rowell is in the foreground. we started up the climb (marked by red line) with peter croft m... but the rock was not great. so we bailed and they climbed west face of russel and i soloed the fishhook arete, got off route on 5.10 and almost pitched off.

anyway. all around this wall there are climbs with better rock. not mega classics... but when you are putting up a new climb it doesn't have to be mega classic to be really fun and a great adventure.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 30, 2004 - 01:14pm PT

here is another shot of the walls above arctic lakes. there are two climbs on the left wall... and i think that is it.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2004 - 01:35pm PT
Thanks for the useful, rapid, and interesting replies.

I don't know why, but there just are not that many people who want to do new stuff, but it seems that this site might be a gathering place for adventure climbers.

I totally agree that a climb does not have to be a mega classic to be fun and a good adventure. Michael Crowder likes to say that any 5.6 FA is better than any 5.10 repeat, and I tend to agree for the most part.

While looking around the site for Sierra info, I noticed that pic of the marmot-- they look like high altitude hedge hogs LOL! I'd bet cash that those feckers are related, and as far as hedge hogs go, the only good one is a dead one. Been fighting them for 20 years in the vegetable garden.

Neil

Gym climber
Here and there
Dec 30, 2004 - 02:15pm PT
That just sounds as cool as hell.

Neil
bobh

climber
Bishop, California
Dec 30, 2004 - 02:52pm PT
Chris, thanks for posting that note about the dihedral above Arctic Lakes. I''ve been
right underneath it and thought it looked pretty good, but now I guess I don't have to
bother.
10b4me

Trad climber
Near the Rose Bowl
Dec 30, 2004 - 07:35pm PT
there are some unclimbed routes in Dusy Basin just over from Bishop Pass.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2004 - 01:39am PT
Yeah but those are real purdy and real tall and thar ain't no snow or ice on em.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Dec 31, 2004 - 01:47am PT
I've seen the cyclorama wall. I don't know if that is the official name, but that is what galen called. We had a trip planned to climb it but i had a knee injury that acted up... so he switched partners. i forget whether he actually climbed it and i forget who his partner was. Very cool looking. but i never got close enough to check out the rock quality. galen claimed the rock quality was good. But he thought all rock was good quality. he was psyched on anything as long as it was big, new, or adventurous in some way. i am more of a rock quality snob.
dougs510

Trad climber
Nashville, TN.
Dec 31, 2004 - 08:21am PT
I was just thinking that a snowshoe backpack trip from the meadows to the valley would be grand adventure.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 31, 2004 - 11:49am PT
Skis work better than snow shoes. My regular partner has done a trans sierra a couple of times, Once from Mamoth. Have done TM a couple of times and will probably do it again this year. The rocket scientist was making noise about doing it again before he turns 71. Hope I can keep up with him.

Has anything been done in the canyons that are across from the water bottling plant? (blue bldg) Those have always looked like an interesting cold weather alternative to Owens Ridge.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 31, 2004 - 06:13pm PT
Angel Wings, and anything past Bear Paw Meadow. 16 mile trudge to get in there but itīs hardly been touched. Prety big stuff as well. Lonely.

JL
Nate D

Trad climber
San Francisco
Dec 31, 2004 - 06:42pm PT
Good grief people, can't we quiet it down a bit? Just a reminder that all of these places have grueling approaches, rattlesnakes, man-eating manzanita, mountain lions, 70+ mph winds, bees, terrible rock, flash floods, sharks, um, and um, crowds... oh, wait.

Let's add:
Fish Creek Wall

Castle Domes

Wildcat point and environs (has it been tapped out yet?)
I guess we could add the entire Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, no?

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 31, 2004 - 06:55pm PT
"Just a reminder that all of these places have grueling approaches, rattlesnakes, man-eating manzanita, mountain lions, 70+ mph winds, bees, terrible rock, flash floods, sharks, um"

Sounds like "fun"
Pappy

Trad climber
Atlanta
Dec 31, 2004 - 11:59pm PT
If you people could tame that police state out there I'd sell the biz and move to CA and start sucking up lines. I'm neither cutting edge or spectcular, but I'm very stubborn and persistent.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 25, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
whoa, so true (to Brutus' point about time)
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jun 25, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
Where's Dirtineye?
anointed one

Gym climber
my mamma
Jun 25, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
"Arnie recently signed legislation banning bolt-action .50 caliber BMG's. Now, pray tell, what kind of crime has ever been committed with one of these?"


there should be one in every home!

but keep this


and this


illegal for the good of society
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