Willi Unsoeld on Nez Perce

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 96 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
In the mid-50's, my dad found himself on a rope with Willi leading across a gully on Nez Perce in the Tetons as darkness set in. I have a bunch more 50's Tetons photos I am starting to scan and will post them in this thread when I get the chance.




My dad couldn't remember the name of the gully when I talked to him today. Does anybody know?

[url="http://www.sierramountainphotography.com/id12.html"]Here[/url] are a couple of pages of 50's photos from the Tetons on my site.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 29, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
Jody, your dad's old Teton photos are a treasure to the site. By all means keep scanning.
DonC

climber
CA
Nov 29, 2007 - 08:34pm PT
oh yeah, somebody else got the scanner out... more please
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 29, 2007 - 09:07pm PT
What a kick!

Wish I could get a closer look at the gear.
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
Symmetry Spire...

Dad's partner


Dad


John Dietschy
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Nov 29, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
Maybe West Hourglass Coulior?......(I had an mini-storm-epic on that route in June , 1976....)
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
Todd, just called my dad and mentioned West Hourglass Couloir and he remembered it. He says he is sure that is the one.
mottaaa

Trad climber
tucson
Nov 29, 2007 - 09:54pm PT
thats not Arlene Blum, is it?
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
It might be. I think my dad climbed with her a few times. I'll e-mail him the pic and ask him.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 29, 2007 - 10:02pm PT
Thanks Jody!
monolith

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 29, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
Arlene Blum was born in 1945, so that would make her about 10 then if the pic was mid 50's. Maybe from the mid 60's.

Whoever she is, very impressive. Very cool pics.
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 10:07pm PT
Maybe she just looks old for her age?

Now I know who I was thinking of...it was Irene, not Arlene, that my dad climbed with..Irene Ortenburger. I don't think that photo is of her though.
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 10:09pm PT
Here are some more. The first one is my dad, Jim Langford. The others will have to be unlabeled until dad gets back to me on identification.

Edit:That is the main bergschrund on Middle Teton glacier. The other pics are on the SW Ridge of Symmetry Spire...still waiting on climber I.D.

Edit: Email just received from dad:"The climber on the SW Ridge with the green parka was Neal Guse Jr. His father was the Personnel Officer at Grand Teton. This was 1956, I believe. He went on to become the Chief Scientist of the NPS in Washington D.C. The other climbers I don't remember, except the one with the red plaid shirt or sweater lived in Denver."





Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
Dad leading on either the SW Ridge or the Durrance route on Symmetry Spire. Sparse protection?

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 29, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
Pretty sad the way that Leigh Ortenburger had to go. I remember watching the news of the fire in the lounge by the Mountain Room with other climbers not knowing at the time that a climber we had interacted with was in there.
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
That was a real bummer. I remember my dad calling me and telling me his old climbing partner was missing in that fire as it was happening.
Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 10:46pm PT
LOL! Regarding this photo...just received this e-mail from dad...

"Not Arlene Blum! Don't remember her name, just that she was a school teacher from back east. Took her up the mountain & probably scared her to death! Never saw her again. That was a brand new nylon, not goldline. Believe I bought it from Gerry in Boulder. You can tell it was Symmetry by the valley below. Jenny Lake would be low to right."


Jody

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2007 - 11:02pm PT
See edits in above posts for climber ID etc.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 29, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
Thanks for the old school shots.
'Just lovin' the detailed history too!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 29, 2007 - 11:59pm PT
great pictures Jody
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