Hardman Offwidth Training Circuit


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Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 21, 2007 - 03:02am PT
Posted up a prior discussion on Russ's site...


Did I get that list from the Taco originally? had to have been.


Is Chingando the only one that gets designated in the reid guide?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 21, 2007 - 05:18am PT

That list and comments were originally by Bruce Bailey (aka Dr. OW), posted to rec.climbing in 1992, and extended by Russ later.

There is a more extended version at:


Boulder climber
Feb 18, 2011 - 04:24am PT
Edge of Night sounds interesting.

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 18, 2011 - 04:46am PT


Boulder climber
Feb 19, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
Check out Mikey's Offwidth Journal...


Trad climber
Feb 20, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
We all had this discussion about five years ago. I can't find the thread right now. Anyway, I made a little book of OW for myself, which I was going to work through. Here's a pic of the cover. The topos inside are all from Reid's.
Credit: Zander
Real life got in the way and I misplaced this little book until now but I did manage to get to, or at least get on, a few of these; Secret Storm, Moby Dick Left, Cookie Center, Lost Arrow Chimney, Doggie Do and Ahab. Looks like I have this years climbing laid out for me!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 20, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
looks like a great tuneup... Zander, when are you coming out to play? we can do it in a long weekend!

Trad climber
Feb 20, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
Do you like how I had we would crank out Crack Of Doom, Crack Of Despair and Worst Error in one day! Man. . . have I got to get fit. . . . .

Trad climber
Washington DC
Feb 20, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
Death crack has next to no ow on it. The hard part is more fist as I remember. River crack is pretty dang hard for a short little thing. Steppin out is the real deal. I wish I had got on twilight zone but never did. Most of the list are pretty good climbs, but the last pitch of reeds is also a good little 10a ow at the top.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 03:16am PT
HOWTC bump

San Jose, CA
Jul 27, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
hey Zander!
4 days schedule for several years..
I working on day 3 second year in the row..

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 27, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Top rope the hell out of Generator Crack, start left side in and eventually do it right side in....the best OW training for the buck.

San Jose, CA
Jul 27, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
Donini, I found Generator crack way easier that expected ...

generator crack does not look so bad ..
generator crack does not look so bad ..
Credit: Alexey

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 27, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Yeah.....but that's the wet side!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 27, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
I thought Grug fell into, the wet side!

Ed's crack 5.7
Upper slot 5.7
Handjacker 5.7+
Strawberry jam 5.8
Fantasia 5.9
Main Street 5.10a
SS Maywood (kinda) 5.10
Someday kids all this will be yours 5.10 er
Left tube. Even more 5.10 like
The spins 5.11b
Burningman 5.11b+
Short but wide, worm drive,harder 5.11 b +++ (ha)
Gates of ladore, 5.11
Right tube 5.11 b/d either is a sandbag
Squat originally rated .11b consensus .12b
Trip aster monkey HARD 5.12b hee hee
Lucille .13- easier for stalkers with a big rack of east to grasp cams
The Win
That one by Reynolds
Forever war 5.13 something, the hardest

To be continued, gaps to be filled

Jul 29, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Hey Alexey,
I am so out of shape but.. feeling good. maybe next spring I can help you put day three to bed.
Climb on Bro!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:46pm PT

Puking at the top of that hard OW!

Nobody writes about that.
hugo watt

Trad climber
Mar 16, 2017 - 06:04pm PT

The link to Mikey's Offwidth journal is no longer good. Its a bummer to lose such a good read.

Ice climber
Mar 16, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
Made me think of Brutus' old rec.climbing post:

"I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing
difficulty, as follows:

5.11a 5.10d 5.11- 5.11b 5.11 5.11c 5.9 squeeze 5.11+ 5.10 OW 5.12a 5.11d"

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 16, 2017 - 06:33pm PT
The Long cnyn hard person training ow list
Dunn Leubbin 5.11
The Dragons Lair 5.11
Sidewinder 5.11
Slither & Scream 5.11+
Headstack 5.12
The Mayor 5.12
Dark passenger 5.12
Fury Road 5.12

For most parties the crux is driving past Wall Street😎
Day two......
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