john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 3, 2007 - 10:11pm PT
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There only used thirteen on the FA. How many now?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Got to be a lot more than when I did it in 81...
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
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Are there stories of when any new bolts were added, Piana's and Skinners belay on the headwall...
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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On the pitch to Long Ledge, there is a variation to the left that allows a bypass of Long Ledge. I'm guessing about 5 bolts. No doubt someone on ST has a better recollection then I do. I believe Piana and Skinner placed them.
These probably don't count as they are not directly on the route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I don't know the current bolt count but here is an interesting historical tidbit. When RR made his third ascent of the route in 1976 there were 42. The first two repeats didn't carry a bolt kit, so between about 1966 and 1976 twenty nine bolts showed up!
Not too hard to see why lots of people like RR, YC and Roper were rabid about the spurious bolting issue.
I would like to figure out which positions are the original thirteen and replace the existing bolt hangers with replica stainless ones.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Steve, I believe all or most of the original bolts were below the Half Dollar. The heavy traffic on that part, and free ascents, may mean that most or all have been replaced.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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John,
I added a bolt 10 or 15 ft to the right of the bolt ladder below the Half Dollar to free the pitch when Mike Graham and I did the FA of Freeblast.
Of course, Mike made up for it when he followed the pitch...see my first post on Supertopo.
I did the whole route in Fall of 72, and don't remember any bolts above those.
KW
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think that there is one original bolt protecting a hard move a pitch or two above Heart Ledge and that is the last of the thirteen. I will have to ask Royal next time I see him.
Warbler- I will also have to ask him about the incident where he demanded Graham's hammer after your futuristic little spree. Makes me chuckle every time I think of it.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Steve,
I'd love to hear that yarn. I don't think I ever got the story from Mike, seems I would have remembered it if I did.
You may be right about the bolt off Heart ledge, and I was thinking there may have been a bolt on the wall above Long Ledge, for the bivi.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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When my cousin George and I made the 7th ascent in '69, there were no additional bolts yet. But I heard that shortly afterward one was placed at a cruxy little move above Heart Ledge.
-JelloWithTheMemoryOfAnElephant
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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"The first two repeats didn't carry a bolt kit, so between about 1966 and 1976 twenty nine bolts showed up! Not too hard to see why lots of people like RR, YC and Roper were rabid about the spurious bolting issue."
Steve: We were down visiting Allen in Berkeley a couple of weeks ago, and he pulled out the film of the third (first non-Robbins) ascent. As you said, he and Roper and Long didn't take even a single bolt, but they did take a movie camera and plenty of film. Pretty amazing footage when you consider they learned how to use the camera the night before they went up. It currently exists in the form of a few VHS copies plus the original celluloid, but he said they're working on a DVD version, with commentary. That will be a treasure.
David
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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On Freeblast, Mike placed two bolts on the slab traverse we did from the top of the first pitch of the Nose to join the Salathe above the roof.
That was some bold, thin slab climbing, right there.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Nice Goldline there Jeff!
Were you guys using prussik knots too?
Way classic!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Naw, Kevin, we had jugs, but hanging in mid air on goldline, you never stop spinning!
-Jeff
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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That must have been real fun for you when you followed The Roof, Jeff!
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah yeah like wtf man?
Holes in your jeans, a goldline POS rope and wtf happened to the bolts that are supposed to be on the wall behind your head there.
You Photoshop those away?
And looky here here kid you're not even tied in and your mom will suffer a stroke seeing sh'it like that.
Thanks for the great memories Jeff ..... w00t
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Those were good days, were'nt they? El Cap seemed SOOO big back then. I was quaking in my boots the day we started. Finally settled down after a couple days, and felt totally at home when we topped out on the fifth day. George and I discussed the freeclimbing possibilities along the way. He didn't think it would all go, but the thought stayed in the back of my mind as something to eventually try...
-JelloDreams
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Walleye
climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
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Geez Jello, I almost thought I was looking at a young Shipoopi with that blonde hair and those glasses heh heh......... Thanks for postin.
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Mimi
climber
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Nice shot and stories and an awesome thread! Back when Jello first appeared on the shelf.
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