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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 26, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
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Ok i need some serious help supertopo!
I have a friend who's lately picked up outdoor climbing, but i haven't seen him since he's picked up the sport.
So he hasn't taken any classes or even learned from from anyone else. Today he was telling me how he's setting up anchors, and just kinda making them up as he goes. Usually just clipping the rope directly into each of the pieces!
his argument is; "oh it's ok my way, if you equalize a sling, there's just one more thing to fail."
I know this is REDICULOUS, and he won't listen.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
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Some quary near Auburn, and "Bowman" wherever that is...
well he's got a set of quickdraws, shoes, a harness, and a 8mm lead rope...
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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Tell him he needs a personal locator beacon.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2007 - 11:00pm PT
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yeah a 8mil
he just kinda went out and bought what looked "nice"
oh and his other argument is "it's only 40 feet so if i f***ed up it wouldn't be that bad"
seriously no troll. i'm really worried about Bob
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
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this sounds like a troll, EV. Why don't you school him?
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sling512
Trad climber
Chicago
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
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---just like Seinfeld would say 'Newman'
Evdawg!!!
-sling
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:21pm PT
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Does he have kids or is this an opportunity for Darwinism to work its magic?
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
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bluering,
well as you guys know, i am semi-new myself (of couse plenty skilled enough to teach him how to actually do a proper anchor)
problem too is i'm just recovering from my injury so i've got to keep my climbing/hikiing limited for the time being.. ];
haaa sling! i love sienfeld. good stuff
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
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Weren't you the kid who set up an anchor and then fell and broke your ankle?
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NMClimber
climber
Carlsbad Ca
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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Troll
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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prolly doesn't have his daisy chain with him either, dammit...
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 26, 2007 - 11:56pm PT
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If the kid knows what you went through by not having a good mentor to show you the ropes and getting hurt perhaps this is Darwinism at work.
Has he at least read some books? If not buy him one on top roping, or sport climbing, or something. I learned how to top rope and sport climb from books. Before I placed my own gear and did multipitch I apprenticed with friends and took a course though.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 27, 2007 - 12:00am PT
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" Anchors"? Maybe I should look into that. Doesn't cost much does it?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 27, 2007 - 12:09am PT
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Didn't most of us start out that way at one time or another? I remember home made nuts( slung machine nuts ) and homemade tube chocks and ten biners and I was off on some of my greatest adventures......... He'll figure it out or ...... you can't save everyone.
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turd
climber
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Oct 27, 2007 - 12:10am PT
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Jody -
For what it's worth, I got it.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2007 - 12:10am PT
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haaa yep WBraun that's me!
...so you could say i had experience in being inexperienced!
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John Moosie
climber
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:04am PT
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I don't know Evdawg. Its kind of a climbers thing that boldness is respected. But this sounds more like foolishness. I think you are 16 and your friend is a similar age. If not and he is an adult, then my advice would be different.
If he showed up in the park as a 16 year old and tried to climb with the gear he has, then he would probably be schooled. The thing is, you are the only one who can school him. No one on this internet can do that for you.
I think you need to be more proactive. Who is he climbing with? You don't say what protection pieces he has. How can he build an anchor without gear? Is he rope soloing? If he is climbing with a friend, do you know the friend? Can you talk to this person?
Everyone is right. At some point you have to go for it. But that is usually after being mentored or taking classes or at least reading a book.
I think you need to do more to school your friend. That might even mean speaking to your parents if he wont listen to reason. If you decide to talk to your parents, then at least warn your friend you might do this.
You already know the consequences of ignorance and inexperience. There is a lot to be said about at least learning the basics of safety.
By the way, if this is a troll, then you suck because this isn't something to joke about. Most folks here seem to think you are a troll. I didn't want to take the chance that you weren't. So the above is the best advice I can give you. I helped bury a kid because his friends didn't do anything even though they knew he was drinking and driving. That purely sucked.
Like I said earlier, as climbers we respect boldness. But their is a fine line between boldness and foolishness. It sounds like your friend is being a fool.
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orange crush
Boulder climber
ca
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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Your not supposed to be climbing in the auburn quarry, so sooner or later rangers are gonna come and take his gear away, then its all about soloing where you dont need to worry about anchors.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:35pm PT
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A Crowley wrote:
Oh, and please repeat that intention of yours, Brownshirt.
You work for me, Fool.
Best get yer fascist act together, or I'll have your job.
Wow - the fact that you would even threaten to do that makes you an even bigger Internet Kook
than you've already firmly established, irrespective of your RL friends rushing to your defense...
If you were to try to get Jody (or anyone else) in any sort of trouble, one would merely
have to show the date that you joined this forum and the 12,528 posts you've made
(more than one third of them self-deleted) in that astonishingly short amount of time.
I hope for your sake it was merely a lame––and miserably failed––attempt at being funny.
Oh, and I don't suppose you've ever heard of Godwin's Law?
(knott that you'd care)
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randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
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Oct 27, 2007 - 03:27pm PT
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I hope this is a fake post. Seriously an 8mm?? Some one can correct me but I don't know of any single ropes that are 8mm.
A. Crowley said:
"Oh, and please repeat that intention of yours, Brownshirt.
You work for me, Fool.
Best get yer fascist act together, or I'll have your job."
Why do you employ fascists?
-JR
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