beggar's buttress

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climbingbuzz

Trad climber
SF, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2007 - 06:01pm PT
How'd you like it? Hans raves about it in 50 Favs, but I see postings that it's not so fun in this forum.

One rope, or two, for the descent?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 4, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
Here's a trip report from 2002:

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/025ymem.txt

We used 2 ropes on the descent, but it looks like you could do it with just one 60m.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 4, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
I don't think it deserves Raves but it's a good route worth doing, maybe more than once if you are the type. Multipitch, shortish approach, no Ultrachoss. Recommend the tidbit variation

Don't take the off-Route corner on the left halfway up!

Used one rope to descend if I recall.

Peace

Karl

Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 4, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
It may be my favorite route in Yosemite (although I haven't done Rostrum or Astroman yet).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 4, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
It used to have some of the black lichen grunginess intrinsic to Lower Rock, but it has nice architecture, good cracks, and up higher, some wild moves in a superb position.
WBraun

climber
Oct 4, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
Karl Baba said: "Don't take the off-Route corner on the left halfway up!"

And if you do you will come to my high point of actually attempting on purpose this path with Scott Cosgrove one day. There will be some nut there with a caribiner attached as we escaped.

To much lichen was the reason for bailing that variation.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 18, 2012 - 03:50am PT
Such a nice looking arete.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:34am PT
Absolutely worth doing. Tidbit start is far superior, and some bolted Mecca-style face (Giblet?) directly below will lead you into that for a long and clean first pitch.

Did this one with J, Melissa; neither of us had done it before but I'm guessing he liked it too. I was getting sick and gradually faded to non-leading status as the day wore on.

So a friend of mine climbed the BB as her first route in the Valley! She was 18, met some guy, he said 'you'll be fine' and they fired it. I don't think she led anything though.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 10, 2014 - 01:40am PT
Beggar's bump.


Hey Clint do you have another link to that TR? I'd love to know more about this one or see some pics. Sounds rad.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 10, 2014 - 04:13am PT
Supertopo changed and stopped handling the ~ at some point.
This is the way to make the link nowadays:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/025ymem.txt
tarallo

Trad climber
italy
Mar 10, 2014 - 11:02am PT
killer climbing with killer ants they eat you......
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Mar 10, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
A great climb - definitely worth doing.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 10, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
How does this one do for seeping? Is it usually wet in the spring?

More of a summer route since it catches shade?

Thanks!

 Luke
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 10, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
Thanks for sorting that out Clint, nice TR! Would still love to see some pics of this one. I heard its like the Rostrum but with a much more adventurous feel.


Would still love to see some pics ;-)


Pics??
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 10, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
Got some friends who got lost up there. Something about a choice of 3 crack systems. They tried one, didn't go, didn't like the look of the others, bailed.

Must be where Werner is talking about.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 10, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
Yeah, it's not steep and clean like the Rostrum - there are ledges with trees on them, etc. It's still pretty cool. Summertime is good.
Actually, Ross tried it in mid-June last year and it was too hot.
It was good in May when I did it.

I didn't have a digital camera in 2002 and wasn't taking slides anymore.
Here are some photos of the first pitch (Tidbit start).
[Click to View Linked Image]
crimpergirl, photo by BrassNuts
It's nice fingers until a couple of moves at the end.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 10, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
I've climbed Beggars twice and I'd say it feels considerably harder and more serious than the Rostrum. Whereas the Rostrum is largely jamming endurance on perfect splitters, this thing has a lot of bouldery cruxes, awkward jamming, and also some occasional lichen and loose rock to boot. In particular, the 10d alcove pitch and the easier section just above it require some care. I also found the chimney-squeeze at the start of the final pitch to be really difficult. Though that section is short, it's a brutal struggle.

It's definitely a route worth doing, but don't expect anything resembling the Rostrum. And the descent requires some routefinding skills and would be a nightmare in the dark.

Tidbit is an awesome pitch and worth doing by itself, but it's the cleanest pitch on the route and is by far the easiest of the 5.11 rated pitches.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 11, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
Edit: if i wasn't on this pinner iPhone I'd elaborate

Thanks Kevin i'd love to hear you elaborate sometime. This is some good stuff. Thanks for the photos too Clint.

I had gotten the idea that BB was comparable to the Rostrum last fall when we were sitting in the meadows & wanted to do the rostrum but needed more gear. We were throwing other options around & the climbing ranger (can't remember his name- crusher dude) took some pity on our overwhelmed unguidebooked asses & suggested beggars. He actually talked us out of the DNB & said BB was easier & better? Maybe he meant it would be easier & better for him to rescue us from BB instead of the DNB? I don't know but we farted around too long & climbed 1/2 the rostrum anyways. For some reason BB has been on my mind since, cool to learn a bit more about it.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 11, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
Maybe Alexey will chime in. I think he's done it somewhat recently. Something about the worst descent of his life.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 11, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
As for difficulty - forty years ago two twenty year old noobs did the FA ground up in a push with EBs, Swamis, no cams, no water no food no bolts
It's all pretty cool.
I'm not so sure about the noobs part, though.
By the FA in 1976, you had already done these FAs and FFAs:

Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
Fun Flake 5.9 .
Pandora's Box 5.10a
Jaw Bone 5.10a *
Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
Knob Job 5.10b *
The Good Book 5.10d ***
Seaside 5.10c *
The Crucifix 5.12b R *** (it still had a little aid at the time)
Bircheff-Williams 5.11c **
Central Pillar Direct Start 5.12 .
Stoner's Highway 5.10c ***
Quicksilver 5.9 R ***
Freewheelin' 5.10b R ***
Per-Spire-ation 5.10b
The Tube 5.11a **
Eagle Feather 5.10c *
Ugly Duckling 5.10c R *
Hairline 5.11b **
Rock Bottom 5.11d *
Black Primo 5.11b R ***
Plumb Line 5.10d *
Axis 5.10d *
Short but Thick 5.11a *
Pinky Paralysis (full) 5.11c ***
Birds of a Feather 5.7 *
The Dove 5.8 .
Easy Wind 5.9 R
Ramblin' Rose 5.10 .
Ramblin' Rose p3 direct. 5.11c
Columbia Point Direct 5.8 .
Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c
Mother Earth 5.12 A4 **
The Joker 5.10b R
The Thief 5.10d **
Windjammer 5.10c **
Free Blast 5.11b
:-)
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