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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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Today I was talking to someone about the tragic history of the Eiger's North Face in the context of Heinrich Harrers The White Spider. This evening I was thinking that in the early history of Yosemite climbing, I can't think of a single death or tragic occurance. Apparently, the men were all bold heros, establishing precedents at ever higher levels without a single mistake. Salathé, Axe Nelson, Harding, Robbins, Pratt, Kor, Frost, on and on. Am I wrong, or did all the heros survive the Golden Age unscathed? Why is it that these men, even while establishing new techniques and entering increasingly more "impossible" terrain suffered no harm, but people in later years are hurt and even killed on subsequent ascents of what are now "trade routes" at a surprisingly frequent occurance?
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Maybe the heroes survived, but many would-be heroes did not. What about the bodies stuck in the Lost Arrow chimney?
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WBraun
climber
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There's nobody in there.
And those guys survived because providence protected them.
Without divine protection you are HOSED.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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RE:
" I can't think of a single death or tragic occurance"
the only one that comes to mind is Jim Madsen.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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What about the Anchors Away dudes...
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WBraun
climber
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Not dudes only one guy, Tim H.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
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What's the story? Haven't heard it.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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single bolt rap anchor - right Werner?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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The guy with the Plaque on Conness? (Goodrich?)
Google style edit;
Don Goodrich, June 12, 1959 rockfall/leader fall Mt Conness
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Mimi
climber
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Jim Baldwin of Dihedral and Grand Wall fame.
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WBraun
climber
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No not single rap bolt anchor.
Tim Harrison would lead pitches by backing up his placements. Kind off weird I thought. He was slightly paranoid.
So .... his idea was to place the bolt as deep in the hole as possible. Just enough thread remaining for the hanger and nut.
Now at the apron it's low angle and they lowered off that single bolt to come back another day.
Well that another day Tim jumared up on that single bolt and the nut came off. When he got to the bolt the hanger popped off the threads and the rest is history.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Mark Powell - Distracted Climbing caused by female. Dingus type injury. Very Sad.
LA
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Mimi
climber
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Bummer of a needless mistake (on Anchors Away).
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2007 - 12:04am PT
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Were these "Golden Age" though, or after?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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after.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Well, as climbers get older and more senile I think you are going to see lots more golden age accidents.
(even if its only because they're not wearing Depends,)
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2007 - 12:20am PT
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Nice Ron.
So was Tim the first climbing death in the Valley? What year was that?
If Harding/Rowell (S.Face .5Dome) were the first technical big wall rescue (ala Robbins), were there previous accidents? Seems like perhaps this part of Yosemite's history has been glossed over by all the heroism, OR, there just wasn't any history in this department. ?
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WBraun
climber
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Two guys died?
Sh'it I didn't know that?
I went to camp that night and everyone was only talking Tim H
Gota go ask Dill.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Tom Kimbrough was on the rescue when Madsen died - he related the story well.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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I remember Kevin's version of the AW story
Peter Barton was another and the is bummer I know there were more too.
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