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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 27, 2007 - 03:47pm PT
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how did this video get 39,582 views????
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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Gordo, correct me if I'm wrong, but that is SOB at Short Wall.
brilliant climb, only to be done in Tennies.
Converse, if I recall correctly for my first goes at it.
Devastatingly hard on a hot day.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
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Kinda looks like Short Wall to me too.
I've seen at least 100 Boy Scouts climb that in tennis shoes or skateboard shoes. Sometimes they set a foot jam so solid their foot comes out of their shoe and they finish the climb in their sock.
Then there's the ever-popular night-time Short Wall soloing in Tevas while smoking joints in the moonlight.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 10:59pm PT
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SOB, my first truly bomber first jam...
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jun 28, 2007 - 12:41pm PT
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We used to do it all the time!! Here's me in '75, .11c
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Jun 28, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
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Mushroom Boulder @ Williamson Rock in my LaSportiva Makalus or some big fat tennies, I can't remember which..
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jun 28, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
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Waugh was the master at climbing in his tennies. If you ever thought you needed to edge to do a route all you had to do was watch him climb it in his Vans. Of course being the worlds strongest man and not really needing to use your feet really helps.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jun 28, 2007 - 03:15pm PT
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At the SM reunion last year Michael Jaffe shows up in his Addidas resoled with greendot rubber, something we active climbers hadn't seen in 20 years, and he proceeds to climb 5.11 in the damn things. The difference was that Waugh climbed on the tennie rubber in what were basically deck shoes. I'm pretty sure he did Valhalla that way.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 28, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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when watusi and i did the south face of el gran trono blanco in '78, i wore tennies for the route. back in tha muthafukkin' day, it was all tennies, all the time, until things started to get pretty damn stout.
oh, we were SO swole....
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 30, 2007 - 11:39pm PT
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Hey BVB,
Then things got high tech:
The original "Five Tennies" were good to about .11a
Of course, they didn't really start to friction well until the dots wore down.
Say, if you and Watusi ever get back down there, hit me up for the beta to the direct finish, "Baile del Sol" .10b R
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WBraun
climber
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Charles Cole, creator and owner of 5.10 free soloed the "Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral" in the first ever original production version of the 5.10 approach shoes.
He hiked to the base in them, free soled the route, and did the descent.
I was blown away .....
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Yay BVB! I remember that well!! You and I always thought that some of our tennies were better than EB's!! And those Five Tennies pictured above are way new school compared to the original ones that were grey with the black X that they have a retro pair out now...I remember being in an original 5.10 ad soloing Jaws at Woodson in silver lycra (ich!) that was in a summit mag I think...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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I recall at the apex of the EB's popularity in the Ditch, here come old Royal groovin' up slowly in his Tretorns. Ever the trend-setter, that man.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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John Rosholt used to do lots of hard stuff in his Adidas. I saw him "walk" up Kloberdanz 5.11c(Eldo) wearing them.
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overwatch
climber
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yes I would be blown away to Mr Braun too bad that guy doesn't post here I bet he has some interesting stories.
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rockanice
climber
new york
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Tretorns were amazingly sticky, best friction tennis shoes I ever climbed in
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