Northwest Books (TR)

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
I know, I know, a TR about a 5.6 climb is kinda weak but I'm gonna tell it anyway. All my usual partners were injured or busy but a German buddy of mine hadn't ever been to Tuolumne and was eager to do his first multi-pitch climb...so it was on! I figured Northwest Books on Lembert would be perfect because I had never led all of it and it's a beautiful and easy multi-pitch in a stunning setting. We drove all day Friday and decided to knock it out Friday late afternoon, leaving all Saturday to do other things. We arrive at the rock at 4:30pm and I point to the route.

For those who don't know it, it follow the obvious 'books'.

Scramble up to the base. Peter (my buddy) found the perfect Tuolumne souvenir here...a medium-sized stopper someone must have dropped. Sweet!

I decided to do the 3 pitch variation (instead of 2 long ones) and Peter decided to take a self-portrait at the first belay.

I really, really had to pee so I relieved myself in a discreet crack and Peter caught me finishing up. The 5.9 variation follows the crack straight up from this belay.

At the top of the route I got a nice pic of what a very happy German looks like after his first multi-pitch.

We opted for the longer, easier walk-off. It was probably a good idea because even on this walk-off I could hear Peter cursing in German as we came down the slabs.


It was a great time. We spent the rest of the trip kicking back and doing some top-ropes on the Western Front. The 5.10's there are really nice and give you an idea knob-climbing Tuolumne-style. I think Peter commented that those 5.9 and 5.10 knob climbs were considerably harder than 5.10's in the gym. Yep, they sure are...welcome to Tuolumne Meadows!



Edit: Sorry for the thumbnail pics...I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong. Click on 'em to view 'em until I fix it. Ahhh, that's better now.
Blinny

Trad climber
TheHolyMont
Jun 25, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
That's not weak! It's VERY COOL! TheRealBlinny and I have done that route and it's VERY FUN! Thanks for bringing back the memories!

Keep ALL that magic alive!

eKatTheFakeBlinny
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Jun 25, 2007 - 01:59pm PT
Nice photos.

Not sure if you meant you hid in a crack to pee, or peed in a crack, but it's best to pee out on a face so it evaporates, not in a crack where it takes longer to evaporate.
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Jun 25, 2007 - 03:04pm PT
Oh no, a 5.6 route, groan :) At the moment I would love to be climbing basically anything ...
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
Jun 25, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
Very sweet pics of the sweetest place on the planet.

Except for the well-timed shot your buddy took of crime in process.

Dude! Don't piss there!!

Easy or not, I love the Books. Lembert's NW side is golden.

Like a shower.
pimp daddy wayne

climber
The Bat Caves
Jun 25, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
sick... i'd much rather see a cool trip report that talk politics. killer....
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jun 25, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
Met you guys on the slabs while I was lounging at Lembert in the evening on Friday. Cool beans for your bud and his first multi pitch!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 25, 2007 - 07:24pm PT
Did I see that summit photo of the German correct?

Looks like he is tied into his belay loop... Not so good.







Looks like everybody had a good time.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 25, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
Thanks for the TR. I love that route. Climbed it a bunch of times.
Zander
10b4me

Trad climber
Hell A
Jun 25, 2007 - 10:09pm PT
thanks, that route is on a great formation with great views.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Jun 26, 2007 - 12:50am PT
Vie es de jer man tied to der belay loop? Voops! Just vundering.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 26, 2007 - 07:16am PT
I have a couple of (not so great) photos of my ex when we did the route in August 1993. She hadn't climbed much before (one VS in the Lake District, her first climb and she came through with flying colors, and some up in Llanberis Pass and Snowdonia in north Wales when we lived there).

The best shot is of her with arms raised (celebrating) with Cathedral Peak and the Meadows behind and below her. Sort of like that shot of Peter above. I love the view of the Meadows from the top of Lembert. Sigh, it's been so long and too long - August 1993.

I'll post the pix. The NW Books is an ideal climb for people who haven't climbed much. I did the 5.9 variation with no pro so Marie could do the regular way without having to clean any gear. It's such a fun climb.

A great climb and cool TR Bluering.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 26, 2007 - 07:32am PT
I need to be savoring the flavor of those T Meadows right now, so thanks!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2007 - 09:19am PT
Yeah, I didn't notice the belay-loop tie in until the 2nd belay station but I figured since he wasn't leading and would only be putting body weight on it I didn't say anything. When I see him for local climbs this weekend I'll point that out to him. He does climb in gyms though, don't they insist on through both harness strap tie-ins?

Edit: James, was that you with the big dog and the hot-looking wife? I remember you guys.
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Jun 26, 2007 - 10:12am PT
5.6, 5.11, 5.12dX... whatever? Great TR

Prod.
L

climber
A Light Glider on a Rising Thermal
Jun 26, 2007 - 11:46am PT
Hey Bluering,

Who cares what the rating when you have photos from such a beautiful place? Really nice TR...except for one small detail...















Jeeeeez Man! Did you have to piss all over the thing by putting in that shot of you urinating??????? :-)
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Jun 26, 2008 - 03:06pm PT
So how many have climbed the 5.9 variation and what was it like? It seems like a lot of the mellow routes such as this one might be spiced up a bit by harder variations.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
I haven't done the 5.9 variation yet but it seemed pretty straight forward jamming, and it's not that long, maybe 20 feet of crack.

...from what I remember.
scuffy b

climber
watching the flytrap
Jun 26, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
Crack in a corner, fingers and hands, footholds to stem onto.
Worthwhile.
Dapper Dan

climber
an 89' honda accord
Jun 26, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
at least he didn't poop in the crack, nice Tr blueballs
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