A Thread for 5.8

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 138 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2007 - 10:05am PT
Michael Hjorth shot this photo last week, on an old 5.8 route with character -- Via Internationale at Kullen. Test the blocks, brush guano off the holds, don't even think about smearing on that green stuff ... blue sea below us. I was lovin' it. Dig the flower.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 10:13am PT
Heh, it's me above that Alien. I was less worried about the hardware than the placement, behind the same block as our anchor and kinda hollow-sounding for my tastes. But you go with what you can get.
dank

Trad climber
the pitch above you!
Jun 11, 2007 - 11:01am PT
GNARBALLS!!
M.Tea

Trad climber
Utah
Jun 11, 2007 - 11:34am PT
that's no alien...but it IS a cool photo!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jun 11, 2007 - 11:37am PT
Cool Pic!

Looks a lot more like a Zero to me. And I'm not sure I'd call 4 feet of rope running it out, AC...
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 11, 2007 - 01:00pm PT
You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Jun 11, 2007 - 03:07pm PT
"Chiloe is pushin' it for sure!"...

I TOTALLY agree!!!...

looks REAL THIN for his feet and hands...

SCARY!!!...


EDIT:

Would that FOOTWORK be classified as "SMEARING" being so THIN???...
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Jun 11, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
I hope you were going to fall in the water, because I doubt any of that gear would have held.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 03:36pm PT
Like I say, I was lovin' it. ST'er (and top Danish climber) Michael was a most excellent host, meaning partly that he led all the weird pitches including one that flat punched me out. Anders Strange Nielsen was part of the fun too.

A few more photos thanks to Michael, I claim no credit for these (except the last).






Here's Michael, who thoughtfully packed a couple of most excellent warm beers for toasting our day from the clifftop.


wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 11, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 10:45pm PT
Really? I think Michael could use a new rope, that one was a bit furry.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Jun 12, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
Thanks for posting, Chiloe. And thanks for sharing a very good trip to southern Sweden.

The trip was the fruit of a ST meeting - and did we talk ST in the car?! It was just a slight extension of the ST/C4 campfire.

Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.

Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness and EBs have been dumped, though.



Michael
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jun 12, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
Yow - maybe we can pass the hat so he can retire that 25 year old rope!
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 12, 2007 - 03:33pm PT
Michael,

Email me a shipping address and I'll see what I can do.

There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo of the old rope cut to pieces.

This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
Ja, wootles is for real.

So we were climbing on a 25-year-old rope? Wild!
john hansen

climber
Jun 12, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
What type of rope is it and from when?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2007 - 09:12pm PT
Domingo

Mountain climber
Jun 12, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
That yellow cam placement looks a bit sketch but my computer lighting could be off.

Kan du bestig mycket pa Sverige? Jag visste inte...
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Jun 13, 2007 - 05:39am PT
It's all very thoughtfull of you. But then again, leader should never fall (Chiloe certainly didn't) and who has ever heard of a rope breaking?

Even though, with all that green rock and guano I am happy I wasn't up there...

Michael


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 12:58pm PT
Yesterday, elsewhere, some other 5.8, newer rope but it's only an 8.4. Anybody recognize this guy?

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