Anybody done Chartres- Medlicott 5.9?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 52 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 7, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
Looks like a nice natural line. Not much info in the Reid guide.
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Jun 7, 2007 - 02:21pm PT
I remember it fondly. My first climbing trip to Tuolumne was in 1974 and we did three routes on Medlicott, The Coming, Sweet Jesus, and Chartres. I don't think we saw another party while we were up there. For The Coming and Chartres we used Roper's narrative description from the Eleven Domes article in the 1969 Ascent. We asked around and could find no one who had done it.

The first pitch or two is a bit circuitous, approaching the dihedrals from the right. The first arch was oozing a bit and my partner had to face climb out to the left. He ended up face climbing most of the upper half of the pitch looking at a long fall back into the dihedral, a really hairy lead. There is a pitch in the middle to connect with the upper arch. The upper arch faces the other way and is pretty continuous .7/.8 with good pro. Then the usual runout on a sea of knobs to the top.

I doubt if it has seen more than half a dozen ascents in the last 20 years. Most people I talk to have never heard of it. Bob Harrington did it, and if I recall correctly, probably wouldn't give it more than one star. But I thought it was a great adventure.
bobh

climber
Bishop, California
Jun 7, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
Yeah, I guess it would be an OK adventure. It's not a bad route, but there's just so many much better routes nearby. It's not got the quality (or crowds) of Lucky Streaks, Crescent Arch, Third Pillar, etc... One star.

I did it the same year as John, and that arch was wet, and I tried to lieback it and took a fall, then went out on the face. That was a great summer in Tuolumne.

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
I did it back in 77' with Fred Zeal and remember it pretty much like John described it. Turning the roof on the left was the way we went also.

John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Jun 7, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
On Medlicott in the .9/.10a range The Coming is worth doing too, but it's over quick. Sweet Jesus just got high praise in its own thread. I think Higgins or Kamps, or both, put up all of those. None are on the "A" List, so you're more likely to find them vacant.

So Jay, what else are you looking at?
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
I don't see any bolts on the topo, so I guess it's not an issue whether their old.
Thanks for the info.

Other things on the list-
Ciebola
yeah, the Coming
Breathing Hard done that one?
Streamline

Unh-Huh, on Fairview
Roseanne- got rained of that last fall
Inverted Staircase

Big Boys Don't Cry Lembert

Fool's Gold DAFF
Crescent Arch- repeat

stuff like that

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 8, 2007 - 02:20am PT
Jay wrote: Roseanne- got rained of that last fall

If you look closely, you can see one of that party on Roseanne in this picture... what you can't see is that it was raining/sleeting/hailing like crazy... I happened to be on a near by route. Since I love this alpine crap I was yelling at the top of my lungs: "God I love this place!"

Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 02:37am PT
Ed,

That was us. Pretty dynamic weather that day. I got to practice my micro-knob- climbing-with-numb-fingers technique.
bob

climber
Jun 8, 2007 - 10:21am PT
Chartres is a really fun climb. We did the easy corner from the ledge over to it. A little traverse left to a belay brought us to the first pitch. Some friends did the 1st pitch of Priaprism to get there as well. Good pitch for sure from what I remember. I recall being a bit intimidated by the lack of crack or bolt(s) on the third pitch, at least from the topo in the guide. Its actually a crack the whole way and a good pitch at that. The second pitch was a bit wet for us as well, but we were able to climb right through it. So, on a wet year, I'd wait until late season, like we did, or go earlier in a dry season.(this winter qualifies in the Sierras!!!!!!)
Thumbs up in my opinion.
Bob J.
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Jun 8, 2007 - 02:10pm PT
Ciebola is on the A List, and sometimes draws a crowd. Just a little harder but usually vacant is Ursula on Dozier Dome. Three quality pitches. Haven't done Breathing Hard or Streamline.

Tried Rosanne a couple years ago, and traversed onto Great Pumpkin to finish. Have to go back to that. I liked Inverted Staircase a lot, and it gets more traffic with the hardware replaced so there's less lichen on the first four pitches. Fairest of All is worth doing too, about as hard but longer.

Big Boys, the runout version of Cryin' Time. Fool's Gold has a gratuitous runout above the big patch of polish, but is a very cool pitch. Take some gear for the belays. If Crescent Arch is occupied, go around the corner and do Cooke Book.

American Wet Dream is worth doing too, and in that low .10 category.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jun 8, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Be careful on Ursula though, it is a lot more serious route than Ciebola.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
Thanks for the input. We'll try and knock something off next weekend.

I hardly ever see anyone on Crescent Arch- why is that? It's one of the best routes I've done up there. Kind of a big brother to Comittment.
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Jun 8, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
Someone I know hates it because it's "blue collar" climbing. The chimney is a grunt, but I like it anyway.
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jun 8, 2007 - 02:52pm PT
Haha, blue collar climbing? Is that where you have to use BOTH hands and BOTH feet at the same time? As opposed to sport climbing?:

bobh

climber
Bishop, California
Jun 8, 2007 - 03:46pm PT
Got to do The Yawn (burly) and Sweet Jesus (heady) if you haven't already. Coming and Breathing hard are worthwhile. Is that other bob Bob Jones?
lucho

Gym climber
San Franpsycho
Jun 8, 2007 - 04:26pm PT
Bob J. when are you comin back to Cali? Tuolumne season is in full swing, I had to work this week in SF but hope to see you in the meadows when I return.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 8, 2007 - 05:31pm PT
I've always wanted to do Chartres, maybe get around to it one of these years. Hiked up there once for it but my partner changed his mind (yeah, it's his fault!) so we did Shagadelic just to salvage the day.

Climbed The Coming years ago and thought that was a good adventure. The 10a first pitch was way easier to lead than the 5.6 face higher up, where I somehow got off route and ran out for miles.

bob

climber
Jun 9, 2007 - 09:22am PT
Lucho, I'm headed out the last week of June for a month or so before I have to come back to CO to tile for another month. Errrr.

Chiloe, don't ya have to run it for miles on that last pitch of the Coming no matter what?
Bob J.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 9, 2007 - 09:51am PT
Did The Coming & Breathing Hard some 20 years back; good not great, but worthwhile adventures. Brossman said I did them in the wrong order.

Bob Jones, 40+ long gray hair from Santa Cruz arena?
Jonesy?

-Roy
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 9, 2007 - 10:25am PT
bob:
Chiloe, don't ya have to run it for miles on that last pitch of the Coming no matter what?
Bob J.


Probably so, I recall a long pitch with just the one bolt.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 52 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta