New Scanner -- Old Climbs

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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
So I've been hassling with mystery software quirks on and off for a week, but I got the first scans out this morning. Not great photography but images I haven't seen in a while, climbs so long ago I can barely recall.

Did you use 'em all up in the old-school thread, or do others out there have more scans from their early years?

A first ascent at Gibralter Rock trying out brand-new RURPs, 1968.




Andy Embick starts a winter ascent at Tahquitz, 1969. Rest in peace, Andy.




Serenity Crack in a less pin-scarred state (but we're not helping), 1969.




A much younger Chiloe heading towards Boot Flake on the morning of our 3rd day, 1971.


Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 01:48pm PT
Nice old photos..back in the day! love the knickers and knicker socks on Andy. I still have my old knickers and except for the embarrassment factor would like to wear them climbing...they were really comfortable.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
Same bolt ladder on the Nose,
A good while later, while I was guiding it for YMS in '87:




The Summit of Mt Adams, WA, May/June of '76, with the Mt Adams Wilderness Institute.
I was 15 and this time I was being guided.
More knickers, obscured by gaiters:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 02:11pm PT
Chiloe,
Where is Andy's ice ax and which route is that at Taquitz?
I did my first lead there on The Trough.
I'm guessing that might be the route.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
Andy has no ice axe, you can see a CMI piton hammer trailing below him. He's offwidthing in mountain boots up the snow-filled crack with no pro. Andy was tough even back in college. The route is White Maiden's Walkaway, not sure whether this is the normal first pitch.

Cool thing about Boot Flake when we did it is you got to use that expando-flake piton technique where you set the next pin by hand, clip your daisy to it, then haul off and hit it once with your hammer so hard and true that, in theory, if the pin you're standing on pops out, the one-hit piton above will save you. Made sense at the time.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
greeeeaat photo Tarbuster! wow..looks scary.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
killer guys,

thanks for the post!
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 03:51pm PT
I'm doing the scanner/posting photos for the first time, too. If I screwed it up I'll delete it right away.

Here's me in knickers, knicker socks are covered up by gaitors. Sunrise - a rest stop on the north glacier route of Mt. Athabasca, August 1977


and here's me leaving the summit of Athabasca, same day - very cold and windy up there...this is my "michelin man" photo




Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 04:18pm PT
Tarbuster -- I had one of those CMI hammers, they lasted well. I liked the balance on my wood-handled Chouinard hammer better, though. On our jaunt up the Nose, Joe and I both cracked our hammers, then covered the handles with tape and said nothing so as not to worry the other guy.

I think you pounded in and out something like 500 pitons on that route.


Carolyn -- Welcome to the party! Looks like a good day on Athabasca.


Crowley -- The Epson I've got seems easy to use so far, but its software disagrees with my desktop computer. No clue as to why, yet, so I hooked up the laptop to get those scans.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2007 - 04:19pm PT
nice Carolyn C
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
Hey, thanks guys. It seems the editing stuff in photobucket is pretty limited, and my old photos are fading. I guess I really need something like photoshop for editing, but it's so expensive. I'm not very savvy with this stuff.
And a lot of my old photos are slides...I think there are slide scanners, aren't there?

Yeah, Chiloe, that WAS a nice day on Athabasca, besides being really cold on the summit (as you would expect.) Spent several summer trips up there hanging out and getting fat in camp while it rained or snowed almost the whole time.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
And a lot of my old photos are slides...I think there are slide scanners, aren't there?

Funny thing I learned, ordering this one. The market for slide scanners apparently peaked a few years back; there's less demand now because everyone's shooting digital. One consequence is that the scanner I really wanted, a Canon 9950f, has been discontinued and fetches high prices on eBay. So I got an Epson instead, too early to say whether I love it.
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
That's good to know - guess I better move on it soon.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 09:02pm PT
'Just got back from a long walk in the woods.

The CMI hammer:
Chiloe, as you know Sibley, I'd guess you'd also know Bill Roos, who gave me that CMI hammer. That picture of it; well, I just laid it straight on the Dell flatbed scanner this morning after you mentioned Embick's CMI (that's why the butt of the hammer is clipped).

I had a Chouinard wall hammer, very nice, did a few nail ups with it and lot's of hand drilled bolts on lead, don't have that any longer.

The Dell Flatbed I use was $130 and it's a workhorse.

That picture of Boot Flake is a slide. I have a Primefilm slide scanner, I think it was $299; it is also very simple to operate.

I just this winter migrated to digital, but I still shoot film, because, um, I like analogue stuff. Still listen to vinyl on a turntable as well.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 12:49am PT
hey Carolyn C:
RE:
"I guess I really need something like photoshop for editing, but it's so expensive"

check it out:

http://www.gimp.org/screenshots/

think there's good support/online instro too.
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Apr 15, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_raster_graphics_editors
Carolyn C

Trad climber
CA
Apr 15, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
Thanks Ray. Good stuff on the GIMP site. BTW, the second climbing harness I owned was a FROG. I got it after having a Forest swami belt and leg loops! I loved your harness, and used it for years!

Thanks murcy for that wiki reference; now that I'm finally jumping in to learn this stuff, it will really help me to read up.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Tarbuster:
The CMI hammer:
Chiloe, as you know Sibley, I'd guess you'd also know Bill Roos, who gave me that CMI hammer. That picture of it; well, I just laid it straight on the Dell flatbed scanner this morning after you mentioned Embick's CMI (that's why the butt of the hammer is clipped).


Now, here’s a cool thing about Supertopo or these digital times. After Tar mentioned that his photo was of Bill Roos’ old hammer, I went digging through some dusty old slides. And unearthed photos of a day 36 years ago when that same hammer got put to good use. Spring 1971, Kor’s Red Dihedral up on Mickey Mouse Wall. The route was rated A4 at the time, we knew of no other repeats, and the Eldo walls were taller in those days, so in our hearts we was climbin’ hard.


Bill Roos on P2. See the hammer?




Roos heads into the nailing on P3, the red dihedral itself:






We’d planned it so I got P4.

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