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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
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Inspired by Steelmnkey's Steck-Salathe TR, thought I'd try for a different kind of climbing thread -- not so much about the climbs themselves, but instead about those hikes where things get careful, and roping up for the real climb comes as a relief.
Here, for instance, the moves were simple except there was surf thumping on razor rock below, and we kept looking out for incoming from the sea.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Mar 17, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
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Yeeikes!
As I recall the hike up the ramp to the tree on Leaning Tower. You ascend twice as fast because it's out over that gulley.
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 17, 2007 - 04:50pm PT
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"3rd class" approach to Via Aqua on upper Yos Falls wall is more exciting than a lot of roped climbs. I'll post a pic when I find it. Basically need to step across a yawning abyss and traverse an 18" wide gravelly downsloping ledge to get to where you rope up for a 5.7. I think the approach is the crux.
edit:
here's the pics...
of me stepping across the open part: and my pardner just past that and starting the ledge: -
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Mar 18, 2007 - 11:29am PT
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If you like skinny exposed ledge traverses, try the NORTH FACE TRAVERSE of MIDDLE CATHEDRAL ROCK. High adventure factor, with a never done fealing to it- Eric
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Mar 18, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
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Approach to NE ridge Bugaboo spire, no easier than the actual pitches.
North Chimney on the Diamond.
Snake Hike.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
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North Chimney on the Diamond.
RMNP has its share of no-falling-zone hikes ... from wet-grassy-ledge approaches
to high scrambly descents
Has even Tarbuster scrambled that last one?
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L
climber
Sesame Street
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Mar 18, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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Yikes!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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Not ropeless, but on an epic approach:
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creetur
climber
CA
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Mar 19, 2007 - 05:20pm PT
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sheesh. and i thought that last bit of the needles approach, that slabby granite business was terrifying. i stand corrected.
however, i don't recommend downclimbing the descent from igor unchained instead of rapping. way stupid.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 19, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
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TK, you're an active dude. I recall the Castleton ball-bearings-on-a-rooftop approach in the days before the trail -- nervous like snow climbing, where each move is easy but if you started sliding, it's a long nasty ride down.
The Gallatin fellow, soloing some easy route? And the knife-edge, in the Winds or where?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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Thx Chiloe.
The Gallatin shot is of an unnamed cack near B.O. Buttress. The ridge is the summit traverse of Mt. Hilgard in the Madison range, here in Montana.
Eric taking a hike in the Gallatins (Waltz P1)
Cheers
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
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(Nice gloves, Chiloe!)
Yeah. The Leaning Tower approach is funky... A noble nomination.
How 'bout the lead-up to Mt. Watkins South Face? We watched Ridgeway nearly die on a forty-foot fall, wherein he shattered an ankle and we participated in a epic rescue.
For my part, I have VIVID memories of an early attempt of the Arrow Direct back in 1969. Of course, it rained (deluged) on us that night during a bivy at the base. Coming back down, across Sunnyside Bench, it was so muddy/slippery that we pitched the pig to the base, and I refused to traverse the vertical mud without a rope. We roped-up on the trail! Sunnyside fooking Bench!!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
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The last time I went up to Castleton was with Brent Higgins and there was a ton of frozen ice/snow in all the shady areas. He decided for breaking off the trail to go directly to the base of Castleton. But there was all this frozen shale with ball-bearings. With packs and approach shoes this was very high on the sketch factor for me.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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with the north chimney already brought up, i'd have to say the traverse across broadway with a pigfull of wall gear deserves an honerable mention!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2007 - 08:34pm PT
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TKingsbury:
Eric taking a hike in the Gallatins (Waltz P1)
The Waltz is on the very short list of Gallatin climbs I know. Pitches 1-2 were cake, then it started drizzling and I couldn't get no pro but whined a lot and took forever on P3. Partners prolly froze.
rmuir:
(Nice gloves, Chiloe!)
Leather gloves absolutely required for the hikes in that neighborhood. We did one hike, 7/10ths of a mile and dead level, that took 45 minutes of careful spooky work. It had no exposure but the limestone karst is so ragged that even on the flats you can't afford to fall.
For my part, I have VIVID memories of an early attempt of the Arrow Direct back in 1969. Of course, it rained (deluged) on us that night during a bivy at the base. Coming back down, across Sunnyside Bench, it was so muddy/slippery that we pitched the pig to the base, and I refused to traverse the vertical mud without a rope. We roped-up on the trail! Sunnyside fooking Bench!!
Had fine weather on the LA Direct in '71 so I don't recall that hike, but Yosemite ledge approaches in general made me nervous. Or how 'bout the East Ledges descent?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 27, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Chiloe:
The Waltz is on the very short list of Gallatin climbs I know. Pitches 1-2 were cake, then it started drizzling and I couldn't get no pro but whined a lot and took forever on P3. Partners prolly froze.
You're not alone, I don't think p3 sees too much action. Spicy.
I think Mojede has a story about falling on that pitch, which could be considered a fall in the no-falling zone....
some stitching fun....Pat on P2...
Cheers
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Mar 27, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
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The slab approach to get to 'Tune Up' on Dozier Dome scared the crap out of me. I kept imagining leaving a big red smear all the way down if I slipped. No pro is available so a rope is worthless and I am not going to be the one to add bolts for an approach pitch. Of course the route scared me even worse. What was it with Bachstar and 40' runouts?!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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TKingsbury:
You're not alone, I don't think p3 sees too much action. Spicy.
I think Mojede has a story about falling on that pitch, which could be considered a fall in the no-falling zone....
Yow, I definitely had no gear I'd want to pull up on, let alone fall. Also, it took me a couple of forays to decide where I wanted to start the pitch, given that none seemed protectable. As I said, a slow lead in the rain, and not a stellar show for 5.8.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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G_Gnome:
The slab approach to get to 'Tune Up' on Dozier Dome scared the crap out of me.
And speaking of the Meadows, I thought the downclimb descent from The Vision was interesting. I had a pair of old five-tennies and was glad for the stickiness. My partner had Nikes and was not.
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