"Los Banditos" and the A-5 of Math

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marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2007 - 11:42am PT
A-squared plus B-squared = tipped out beaks and jingous hooks???

Just came across this copy of a new Geometry text that's being used here at school.


The shot is by the Taco's very one Jerry Dodrill. For other purty shots, check www.jerrydodrill.com



yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Mar 1, 2007 - 11:48am PT
Math is A5 fer sure. Excellent work C-Mac and J-Do.


That thing's still looking for a repeat. Ho man, where's my beaks...
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 1, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
Shizzzam! I wondered where that check came from. My agency licensed it to the publisher. It payed my rent and then some.

I need a copy. Can I get the publisher's info?

Thanks Marty!
s. o.

Trad climber
academia
Mar 1, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
I thought you didn't climb any more yo
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2007 - 03:22pm PT
Jerry,
The publisher is McDougall Littell. The authors are Ron Larson, Laurie Boswell, Timothy Kanold, and Lee Stiff. To look it up, use ISBN 10: 0-618-59557-0, or check classzone.com or mcdougallittell.com for more info. It's possible you could pick up a used (read: cheap) copy online.
My kids keep thinking it's me on the cover. Thanks for the suave ego-boost!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Mar 1, 2007 - 03:24pm PT
What's cool here is that kids always ask, "why do I gotta learn Geometry", and this pic in it's context will actually get kids to appreciate how geometry can be used in countless ways. Sweet! Congrats on the royalties, Jerry.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 1, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
that is hilarious!
leinosaur

Trad climber
burns flat, ok
Mar 1, 2007 - 03:43pm PT
Great shot, in itself -

and I love geometry, but . . .

how does that equal-angle stuff apply to the climbing?

(Just in case one of the "why do we have to learn geometry?" kids should ask)
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 1, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
Uh-oh. I feel a full-on retro trip report coming on. Firing up the scanner. I think I have a black mail shot of Chris in the files somewhere. Heh. There's still time to protect your reputation, C-mac. Better send the money quick, unmarked bills of course...
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Mar 1, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
Class, a climber climbs 20" above his last pro, and is on a viscious overhang. He peels, yells, "Gaaaa". Caclulate how far the climber falls, where he'll smack the rock, and most important, calculate the angle generated by his ride from where he peeled to where he makes smackdown. There would be an illustration of where the pro was and where he fell from.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
Did some fast low res scanning last night to share these photos, most of which have never seen the light of day, which is a shame.

The FA of Los Banditos went down in May of '99. It was my first big wall photo shoot. Needless to say, I learned a ton about how to do and not do many things. I also gleaned many years worth of experience watching C-mac and Luke Miller for these five days. The story was for Elevation Magazine's premier issue. Elevation is gone now, but the experience (and stock imagery) was worth much more than the mere thousand dollars they paid me to shoot this.

Los Banditos is on the Right Twin formation. I don't have a photo of it here unfortunately. The day before starting we climbed/hiked to the top with 1,500' of rope for me to fix and shoot with. Intended to fix all the way down, but found out the hard way that it's a 1,700' wall. Oops. Long story, but I got down on a 7mm cord, hiked back to the car, back to the top, and rapped back down again. This kind of shooting is just a lot of work. I should have gone climbing instead. Enjoy. Maybe I'll add captions later.










After four munge pitches, they reach the base of the "Dream Catcher". The seam rises straight up in front of Chris for about 300' on a blank steap tower. Beaks, rurps and KB tips forever. I was giving chris crap for sowing it up. heh. He just smiled. I'd never even placed a beak, but thought I was pretty funny. He didn't. There were two pitches on the tower, Luke got the second one which turned into a corner. They bivied at the hanging belay in the middle.













Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
From the top of the Dream Catcher the route drops left, "Changing Lattitudes" and gets really interesting. Chris Took all day on one pitch.

There were some blind hooks. Chris looked at me after sliding this one up the wall with his hammer. "Is it good?" "Uh, Looks okay" I was looking through my 300mm. It was questionable perhaps.




There was another party doing an FA at the far end of the wall. Don't know who, or what route.










I've been accused of all sorts of things regarding the photo below. I don't even own a fish eye lens, if you must know. The above photo shows the Tsunami Headwall. It's steep and concave. You can see the long 5.8 or 5.9R slab that Chris climbed before drilling out the headwall to a crazy summit move. The smile and drill grit in the teeth tells it all.





Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:24pm PT



The loads were heavy. Chris couldn't haul because of the angle and load. It's flat on top. I joined in the fun, tainting the FA. Heh. The rope was sawing through the rock.


Luke cleaning the last moves. Check out the garden hose on the rope at the edge.


Good times.
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
Wow.

I was packing up the car before I saw the hook pitch. Never mind.
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:40pm PT
Wow. Freaking awesome pictures. Thanks.
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:43pm PT
great pics
WBraun

climber
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
That was a really nice photo session Jerry. Excellent.

And the name of the route is very nice.

Beautiful man, just beautiful!
L

climber
The City of Lost Angels
Mar 2, 2007 - 05:58pm PT
Wow Jerry--Amazingly beautiful photos! The one that looks fisheyed-but-isn't is simply incredible. Looks like a really great trip...and it sounds like you got to do a whole lotta work, too!
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 2, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
Yeah, I was pretty stoked about this. Fun to pull these out. The Tsumani image was made with a 24mm lens aimed pretty level, so not much distortion. Just a magnificent finish to the story.


Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Mar 2, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
Jerry, you are a very good photographer. And what a photogenic route! The wave makes such a dramatic finish, too.
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