Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 17, 2019 - 02:50pm PT
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Hey Homies.
Supertopo used to be huge part of my world and super grateful to all the connection I've had here. Even though kicked the habit in recent years, sending a lot of love out there and sorta grieve the loss.
On another note. I meant to ask. All my climbing shoes have gained the status of gross like underwear you find in the bushes. No more resole possible or models I don't quite like.
Mostly a Yosemite Climber and (once we got past EBs and Fire) used to love vectors, and when those were discontinued, 5.10 newtons. All the shoes I like get discontinued.
So while the hive mind is still available. Which shoes are available these days that have the characteristics of those shoes? (ie, sensitive enough to feel the stone but stiff enough to stand on tiny granite edges? Getting my toe in the crack also a bonus
Wishing you all the best
My website is never updated but still exists at www.yosemiteclimber.com
Peace
Karl Baba
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Matt Sarad
climber
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May 17, 2019 - 03:35pm PT
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Red Chili Sausalito?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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May 17, 2019 - 03:38pm PT
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Karl, they may not be quite as stiff but the Butora Endeavor is pretty close. They are velcro and come in a wide version. If you don't like velcro you might like th Altura. I went thru quite a few pairs of Newtons over the years and these are a reasonable substitute.
Of course, if I really, really, really need to edge then my Tradmasters are still there to do the job!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2019 - 10:27am PT
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Thanks for sharing a few ideas. I'll see what's at the Yosemite Mountain shop next time I'm down there
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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May 21, 2019 - 10:41am PT
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Hey Karl, I was a big fan of the Vectors back in the day. I climb in Katana Lace now and they have some similarities in fit and sensitivity. Slightly more pointy toe but widish toe box like the Vector. Substantial and great at edging but definitely not a clodhopper. Cheers. -Neil
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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May 21, 2019 - 10:50am PT
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I loved the Vectors, then switched to Acopa Specters and JBs. I recently started using TC Pros and love them. One of the best crack shoes I have seen in years.
There is a rumor that Acopa, currently being made under the name Rock On here in Guadalajara, may make a comeback. I hope so
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2019 - 01:43pm PT
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Bachar gave me a pair of Acopa Specters which seemed like they would have been great but my pair was just way too tight. Shoe sizing is so janky that I don't dare buy stuff over the mail. I have one pair of size ten newtons and one pair of size 12 newtons and they both fit the same!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 21, 2019 - 01:52pm PT
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Changes/discontinuance of your favorite shoe: the bane of every long term climber. For a long time my faves were the Sportiva Mega SG. I then migrated to Vectors as well, which I loved for just about everything but fist cracks. Nowadays I don't get out nearly as much as I'd like but when I do I like the TC Pros. Stiff but still pretty sensitive. I can smear and edge equally well. I also have a pair of Solutions, but those are mostly for bouldering or indoors. Good luck with your search.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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May 21, 2019 - 02:50pm PT
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What size are you looking for Karl? I just inherited a fairly new looking pair of size 10 Newtons that you can have.
Curt
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 21, 2019 - 02:58pm PT
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Anasazi Pro
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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May 21, 2019 - 03:28pm PT
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"Bachar gave me a pair of Acopa Specters which seemed like they would have been great but my pair was just way too tight."
Acopa sizing was way off compared to US sizes. I got mine from JB too, but I got to try them on. I resoled them 4 times before I got a second pair. Now I have a pair of Rock On shoes that are almost exactly like the Specters, but the sizing is still different. They also only cost about $40 in Mexico
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 21, 2019 - 11:59pm PT
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My pair of Newtons are still decent, but I've really liked the Katana lace. My first pair finally wore through, but my second is still doing well. It takes a while to break them in -- or is it my feet that I break in?
I also had a pair of Anasazi Guides, which reminded me of the Newtons, but I sized them about a full size too small, and didn't come to that conclusion until I'd worn them down enough to be unreturnable. My daughter uses them now.
John
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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May 22, 2019 - 07:35pm PT
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No shoe can beat the Vector.
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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
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