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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2019 - 11:17pm PT
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popped up on my YouTube recommended, I liked it
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 21, 2019 - 01:29am PT
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Nice video He seems like the same guy I met in the 70’s. Still the same enthusiasm.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 21, 2019 - 07:10am PT
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R Clune, R Perch, M Schneider/GotD
HERE IS ANOTHER GOOD VIDEO, "The Road To The Nor`easter"
FUN with Sonnie T & Russ C in the GUNKS
https://vimeo.com/14191074
Yes Tad!
A Guitar Hero!
Whats your guess as to the dollar value of those
not accidentally
displayed Axes?
it$ big $$$K$
Another
iF YOU LOOK UP THE DEFINITION OF
"SPECIAL PRIVILEGES".....thats not the right phrase: Entitled?
hE ALONE DECIDES WHO CLIMBS AT tHE ONCE PUBLIC, NOW EXCLUSIVE
ICE CAVES MNT IN ELLENVILLE
NOW KNOWN AS THE SAMS POINT PRESERVE
Some have keys & can drive 3(?) miles all others walk.
I made sure to grab mine, taking RRomno 2 or 3 times of the 20 or so times
I stole my way up there, while the property was in limbo & for sale, then under contract....
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 21, 2019 - 08:25am PT
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Starts out with a gray dick in his hands...
Great little video! Nice guy, always full of psyche.
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jstan
climber
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Mar 21, 2019 - 02:16pm PT
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It has been nearly fifty years but I still click on the "Gunks". Russ's article is extremely good. I picked up on one line. "The Gunks is small enough to cause every person to be important." That is the reason why we dropped pitons so quickly. That is why it worked. Bill Atkinson's article recreates the feeling of that time beautifully.
https://atkinsopht.wordpress.com/2017/11/02/the-gunks-of-yore-1966-74-the-clean-climbing-revolution/
I have only one regret. I got a chance to work with Dan Smiley. Somehow we might have worked out a way to allow many more climbers to work closely with Dan. The Smileys are making an immense contribution to us all.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Mar 21, 2019 - 05:54pm PT
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Beautiful video of the gunks, where I learned to climb.
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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Mar 21, 2019 - 08:58pm PT
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Jstan, was that the Smileys stoppers guy?
Your ascent of Foops was legendary, BTW
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jstan
climber
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Mar 21, 2019 - 09:35pm PT
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But whatever contribution Smiley made is less clear.
The interface between the Trust and climbers was very strong back in the 60's and the 70's. On a per capita basis from the few negative expressions today it still seems very strong. But I ask myself what more might have been done to prepare us for the severe problems we all could see coming. For almost a century and a half the Smiley family has not limited its goal simply to preservation of the resource. They have given equal emphasis to having that resource provide people with what they need to build enjoyable lives. As you might imagine taking two goals inevitably requires a very well thought out management. We have had the benefit from this management.
An incident I think provides some insight. Nick, I don't off hand know whether you knew Thom Scheuer, the long time ranger. I was riding in the Trust's truck with Thom one time when we went past a group of guys playing. In his usual very mild manner Thom said, "They are doing something they should not be doing." I'll come back later after they have had some fun, and bust them. Mind you, Thom's "busting" was the same as a whipping with a wet noodle. But that is precisely the most effective approach for rule enforcement to address problems.
From my observations of the way Dan moved, I also concluded, had he had the time, Dan would have been a very fine climber. I think this was another reason for welcoming Fritz and Hans in the Gunks.
As for the mystery, that was removed at the Trust's "climber's meeting". Out of 100 climbers came not one denial of the need for action. It was very clear a hugely powerful engine was running full throttle. All we needed was for each person to find their answer. So I tried as best I could, to provide information allowing those answers to be found.
Bill Atkinson's piece makes all of this apparent.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 22, 2019 - 03:14am PT
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Idea of a privately owned "park" seems very "American." At the very minimum, its a hugely inefficient and redundant use of financial resources, given that the state has a major infrastructure at the ready for exactly this purpose.
Common counter-argument is that "privates do it better." But taken to its logical conclusion, this is an obvious dead end.
Ok,
Explain Bears Ears.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 22, 2019 - 05:18am PT
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No, not the Spanish gear maker.
The climb at the end is definitely Directissima but he just wandered over to the 5.6 arete pitch from High E instead of coming in directly from below. It looks as if he may have even skipped the first steep part of the arete pitch so the grade of the whole pitch as he did it is probably 5.4. It's 5.6 at most.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Mar 22, 2019 - 07:56am PT
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Fun video! I knew Russ from afar climbing in the Gunks in the late 70's and 80's and finally met him in Germany in 1993 at the ISBO trade show. Really nice guy with a string of passport stamp pages like I had never seen before, the guy has been and climbed everywhere!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 22, 2019 - 01:18pm PT
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Three Cheers and much love and respect for Russ Clune- The Long-necked Geek, as Hugh Herr used to call him with a grin. Free soloed the notorious Super Crack, he did, and then fell off the next time he was on it as the story goes! Legendary Gunks stuff!
Livin' the Life as few have been able to manage.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 22, 2019 - 09:59pm PT
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Nice video. What's that arete he's climbing at the end? Looks really nice.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 22, 2019 - 10:33pm PT
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High exposure ledge is the finish. One of the most iconic areas of the gunks. Specifically the arete is the end of the Directissima variation (5.9) . Which starts around the corner. The part you see him on is only maybe 5.6, if you can believe it.
People do it for the photo op from the GT ledge.
High E (5.6) was my first lead ever. Sitting on that ledge I felt like the greatest climber ever...until I looked over the side and a guy was coming up Doubleissima around the corner 5.10b? It set a goal. It took me years to try doing it in the style he did. I didn’t go up until I was sure I could.
High exposure itself was FA’d by Hans Kraus and Fritz Weisner in 1941!
Many moonlight kegs have been consumed there.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 22, 2019 - 11:51pm PT
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`
The dramatic climbing at the end of the video is easy & considered to be a variation of Directissima. Russ just wandered over to the easy arete pitch of High E instead of coming in directly from below. It looks as if he may have even skipped the first steep, crux part of the arete pitch so the grade of the whole pitch as he did it is probably 5.6.
It's pretty much 'climb anywhere territory'; with a lot of 5.4/5. that gets easier closer to the actual arete. While there is less pro it is standard to climb there for the 'amazing scenic aura' & photo opportunity.
The crux 5.9 bit is much lower and 5.6 crux happens turning out from under the roof and then climbing a slightly overhanging 'headwall' the high exposure pitch, that also gets easier the more one climbs out to the edge, the highest exposure.
Russel has climbed at a 5.11+ standard for 40 years & been sandbagging grades the whole time. A lifer, indeed.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 22, 2019 - 11:57pm PT
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Hah. Didn’t notice the trail rope.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Mar 23, 2019 - 08:37am PT
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Cluney, always stoked, always smiling!
I shudder to think of the Gunks in state hands. A few trips ago I left the Coxingkill parking lot but left the back gate of my Forerunner open. As I pulled out of the lot my ditty bag dropped onto the road. I pulled over immediately and got out to fetch it, meanwhile a state "ranger " screeched to a halt, grabbed it, opened it, all the while knowing it was mine, he'd seen it fall. He went through the whole thing and I had to produce my ID to get my prescriptions back. You want those dicks running the place, really?
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Atkinsopht
Mountain climber
Boston, MA
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Mar 24, 2019 - 10:22am PT
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Yo, JStan:
Thanks for the good words.
In the seventies I remember working with you in futile attempts to keep the press at bay.
I climbed in the 'Gunks for fifty-four years, my last climb having been "Southern Pillar" in 2010 with John Reppy. We has a combined age of 164 years.
I have other 'Gunks and mountaineering stuff at: https://wp.me/P6Isot-q
Be well,
Bill
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