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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2019 - 09:40pm PT
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Jim, when we went into the the East Fork Valley in the Winds you told me a story. It involved a bar fights with cowboys in Jackson, an early ascent of Devils Tower, uptight rangers, a noose, some soloing and a trip to the Needles. I could, and quite possibly might, have some of the minor details mixed up due to some fine tequila, large fresh trout cooked on an open fire pulled out of an icy lake, and some hand rolled cigarillos.
Llamas were cooing, the moon might have been full, and the mosquitoes were thick as the falling leaves in a New Hampshire autumn. Help fill in some of the details.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Feb 20, 2019 - 01:33am PT
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those are some good looking llamas and this is a worthy thread. not to derail but I kinda wonder when the Big D first nailed and when he last nailed pitons (aside from rap or belay anchors)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 20, 2019 - 06:35am PT
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Heading to Chile Chico in Patagonia with Angela and George Lowe for a couple of days. I have a funny story about DT with Steve Wunsch in the early 70’s. I’ll post it when I get back in a couple of days...out the door for now!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 20, 2019 - 09:45am PT
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Awaiting the story with worm breath, as nurse ratchet would say......
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Feb 20, 2019 - 10:38am PT
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Now that is going to be a truly righteous post. I can hardly wait, Jim. And do be safe on your travels, dude.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Feb 20, 2019 - 02:54pm PT
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Mike,
I'll tell you one story while your waiting for Jim to get back. It was 1972, and I was climbing most of the Summer with John Bouchard. We had done many walls in the Valley, then went to the Tetons and did the Black Ice C./West Face combo on the Grand plus the 1st ascent of Run-Don't-Walk Couloir on Mt. Owen. We were in great shape by the time we arrived at Devils Tower, on the way back to the East Coast.
Back then the rangers were real a-holes. They gave us a real hard time questioning our ability to do the easy Durance Route. After a big hassle they agreed to give us permission.
Upon arriving at the top, we found 2 of the Park rangers getting ready to rap off. There was a fast approaching thunder storm coming from the other direction, which we never saw while climbing the route. The rangers were taking forever setting up the rappel, and we kind of took over. They were kind of panicked by this point, and I remember getting jolted pretty good while I was rapping down the route. I must admit getting shocked by lightning while rapping is kind of un-forgetable.
When we got back to the rangers station, the head ranger's attitude towards us was markedly different, treating us like hero's. They offered their private showers to us etc. It was pretty funny, and memorable.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 20, 2019 - 02:58pm PT
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Good one, Steve!
Thanks for sharing.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 20, 2019 - 03:26pm PT
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Thanks for sharing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2019 - 06:47pm PT
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I thought it was wunsch but couldn’t really remember. Steve I did not know you climbed ice sounds like great times. This walks in the Tetons seem to be quite long. Would you bivy up there. Been in more than a few storms on the tower but never got hit by lightning. I would love to come out east and climb some ice sometime. I got to admit though that climbing ice when it is 50 degrees can be so fun. Steve here is a photo of you and Jim below the golden dihedral. Jack is interested in going in there. Maybe next year. Also looking for some partners to climb some new routes in the big horns. Maybe it is time to get the band back together.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 21, 2019 - 10:44am PT
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Heck, I thought Jim was going to tell us about what is was like to be present when the Tower was geologically created back in the day?
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Feb 21, 2019 - 11:54am PT
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Mike,
I hiked in there alone last Sept but my leg was going numb, ( herniated disc), so I left, and went to Jackson. Got an MRI in Jackson which confirmed my diagnosis. I'm getting too old for adventures like that.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Feb 21, 2019 - 12:35pm PT
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Heck, I thought Jim was going to tell us about what is was like to be present when the Tower was geologically created back in the day?
So like when Devils Tower was a volcano and it was a hike?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2019 - 01:22pm PT
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Mike I will climb ice with you and jack anytime if you end up in the east.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2019 - 06:01pm PT
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The McCarthy routes on the tower are brliant. Both the north face and the west face are some of the best routes I ever climbed. the free variation to the west face.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2019 - 08:31am PT
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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