Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ahwahnee Bartender
Big Wall climber
Fog Town
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2019 - 01:32pm PT
|
Oh yes, it was only a matter of time, and of course the most nights spent on El Cap by a human being (AKA: Vertical Camping). And now, the book. I guess Pete's assistance with Chongo's book was just the beginning. Years ago, I suggested that Pete be honored with the title: El Cap Ambassador to the World. His book should finally cement that title into common usage.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 01:48pm PT
|
Hey Theo!
Long time, no talk, eh? Theo once help me set up a Dr. Piton website, but it was just too much work for me.
The book was easier, though - I had pretty much written it online over the last twenty years, with all of my various how-to posts.
So yes, "THE BOOK" is pretty much finished. We don't even have a title for it, though. I want to call it something simple like, "Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Guide" but I'm not sure what my Italian co-author Fabio Elli and the publishers have in mind?
Anyway, watch for it this spring. There are tons of great photos and stories, and the best how-to information on all aspects of aid climbing and big wall systems ever published. The chapters on "Big Wall Camping" and solo aid and wall climbing are particularly exhaustive. You will love the clarity of print and the bitchin' photographs.
Cheers, eh?
"Pass the Pitons" Pete aka Dr. Piton
Ha! You actually called me "The Ambassador of the El Cap Bridge", but everyone jumped all over you and said that was Tom Evans. Tom has moved into the Meadows, the Bridge is pretty much empty, but I suppose I could now be known as "The Dirtbag of the El Cap Bear Boxes," although that doesn't exactly differentiate me from the other habituees, denizens, reprobates, delinquents and recalcitrants who also abide there.
I don't see myself as much of an ambassador as I do a Wall Doctor - one who diagnoses and solves big wall climbing problems. Hopefully aspiring big wall climbers will buy our book, and more and more Big Wall Theorists will reach the summit by legit means.
|
|
skywalker1
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 01:56pm PT
|
Huh. I remember reading a lot of your posts on was it Rockclimbing.com? or something. I was impressed with how you explained things. I was a noob at the time. I don't think I've gotten much better but my I.Q. is low and I'm lazy.
I'll keep a look out for it.
Cheers!
S....
|
|
capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 02:18pm PT
|
Paging Dr. Wall, paging Dr. Big Wall...come to floor C rm A5.
|
|
Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 02:46pm PT
|
Looking forward to it, hopefully your publisher won't mind if it gets uploaded here.
|
|
Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 03:32pm PT
|
I can’t wait to order my copy.
No doubt it’s “the better way.”
Cheers,
Doug
:)
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 03:36pm PT
|
^^ that phrase does occur in the book from place to place... ;)
Haven't seen you in ages, Doug. When are you back to El Cap?
Can you help me get the book on the shelves at MEC?
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 03:45pm PT
|
It will be good book.
How to drag all that sh!t up that cliff.
I'm surprised you haven't got hernia yet :-)
You are Superman for sure.
You even got E to with you on one of those ascents.
Impressive!!!
Another impressive feat is you actually get up all those different routes all these years.
I would have a hernia by now ...... :-)
|
|
E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 03:54pm PT
|
Werner
thats two routes with piton
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 03:57pm PT
|
Ah correction ...... even two with E
Awesome E
You have a hernia yet?
LOL ..... :-)
|
|
Jim Clipper
climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:00pm PT
|
Duck is experienced. Duck may be wise. You better use that as a foreword, or guest review.
How bout donating a small portion of each sale to the Chongo defense fund (that may trigger some folks here)
Edit: add a glamour shot of your hot wall partner, you know, gotta have the acknowledgements
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:27pm PT
|
Yes, the hauling chapter is quite exhaustive as well! And a certain cute wall partner is featured in several of the photographs.
None other than the late Jim Bridwell wrote the foreword, and I would consider it to be some of the Bird's finest writing.
How did you know about my developing inguinal hernia???
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:32pm PT
|
Just guessing as it could be obvious lol.
Hope your book is successful is all I really shooting for.
Your drawings are really good too ....
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:39pm PT
|
Thanks, Werner. There are a few of my drawings in the book, but mostly it's the high quality photos that will grab your attention.
I spent the last four wall seasons taking "textbook photos" of all my systems, then thinking about them all and writing it all up.
Fabio thinks the book will achieve worldwide success, selling to Russian, Korean and Japanese climbers, for instance, who can speak a bit of English.
If nothing else, I hope our book inspires people to get out on the big walls, and teaches them to succeed!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:48pm PT
|
Is it being underwritten by Chivas or Johnny Walker?
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:55pm PT
|
How to drag all that sh!t up that cliff.
I think Werner just wrote the title for you
|
|
E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 04:55pm PT
|
didnt some guy det a hernia hauling petes stuff on the first pitch of a route and have to go to the hospital?
|
|
anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 05:02pm PT
|
Is it being underwritten by Chivas or Johnny Walker
Neither. More like Natty Ice or whatever's on sale!
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 05:02pm PT
|
^^ That was either Travis having his seizure, or Scott who allegedly got a hernia, but who might have actually come down with a case of the nerves.
Either way, same place - base of New Dawn.
Edit: more likely underwritten by King Cobra and Trader Joe's.
|
|
Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2019 - 05:10pm PT
|
I've never put myself in a situation where I might use some of Pete's advice, but I have looked at his articles and I find the drawings are the best, most elucidating part of them. I'm curious and I like to understand what he's saying and why.
You can present this stuff with photos, blank verse, whatever -- nothing makes things clear faster than those line drawings. Who did those I wonder?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!