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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2019 - 08:48pm PT
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I went into Eastside sports today to drop off a rope for Amy & stumbled across the new Glen Denny book! Very cool.
Then I flipped it over and saw my parents on the back cover.
Blown away. What a freakin' crazy year it has been so far - in all sorts of good ways.
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2019 - 08:54pm PT
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Crazy side-note.
In the original picture my mom got from Glen (shown here), I was on the lower left side, waddling around as a 6-month-old, but he had to crop me out to make picture fit for the "Yosemite in the 60's" two-page spread early in the book.
I was just a dirty arm and shoulder anyway - not much lost...
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SusanA
Sport climber
Bay Area
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Jan 21, 2019 - 08:56pm PT
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I know nothing of this this world of climbing but I've seen a few of those old black and white photographs at the gym, in documentaries, etc.
They are so fascinating and well done. That photo on the back of the book has so much to capture one's interest. The equipment, the thoughtful way the climber is looking at it, and the old cars in the background (maybe not old then, but classic today!!!) True art!
Edit: I see the child now ... Such a great composition!
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2019 - 09:37pm PT
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Thanks, Susan - I edited my post because I thought it was the same - but then realized he did the full spread for the back cover of this book.
Thanks for pointing that out.
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Jan 22, 2019 - 03:40am PT
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That book is so freaking good.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 22, 2019 - 11:43am PT
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I reviewed it for the WSJ when it published.
You can read my review here. (Clicking on the image should enlarge it for reading.)
Good book.
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2019 - 05:08pm PT
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Here's the original thread when the book was released. Glen has had some health issues since then, but is now much better and is finding some new and interesting challenges around San Francisco and the Sierras.
I forgot to do a search, Bruce - apologies.
If you see Glen, say Hi for me and tell him thanks for finding a place for the full-sized picture! Glad he is doing well!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Jan 22, 2019 - 05:34pm PT
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Was in The Valley right after it released and saw it in the Mountaineering Store...couldn’t pass up buying it there.
Peace
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 22, 2019 - 07:10pm PT
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I'll post this again as it is one of my favorite photos from back then. A day on the Dana Glacier with Denny and Sacherer, circa 1961 ish............Sacherers first time strapping on crampons...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 23, 2019 - 08:20am PT
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Fantastic shot Guido!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 23, 2019 - 11:20am PT
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I have to say I discovered Glen when a friend pulled out a black and white well worn VHS copy of El Capitan the film early in my climbing days. I now own the remastered version.. It's still my favorite climbing movie. Glen had great vision then to document the climbing of that era.
Glen has some great stories about making that movie. The film canisters he was using were only good for three minutes or so, if I remember correctly, to reduce weight which means that he was constantly having to change out the film. That's not so easy on a wall! Clearly, a groundbreaking film!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 23, 2019 - 03:30pm PT
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An interesting voice. Formal, objective, elegantly simple and clear in spots. A voice from another era. Enjoyed, but I'm a sucker for Yosemite yore.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 23, 2019 - 05:47pm PT
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An arcane bit of Yosemite trivia is that Warren Harding jokingly sought to invent the cheater stick during the FA of the Leaning Tower. At the time, Harding referred to his would-be breakthrough as a "Denny Arm", which would ostensibly allow normal-sized people to more easily clean Glen's widely-spaced overhanging aid placements.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 23, 2019 - 06:01pm PT
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I always said when Denny, Kor and Roper made an early ascent of the Nose, (third?) they could easily have avoided many problems with a three-man shoulder stand. Talk about reach!
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2019 - 06:03pm PT
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Maybe it was the third - off the top of my head I vaguely remembered it being the 4th from Mom's story.
Clint Cummins is always good for this stuff...
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jan 23, 2019 - 06:51pm PT
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Spraylord! Look at me in the climbing rags.
Seriously, good stuff! If my parents were that cool, that's all I would post about.
Considering how most kids like to eat a little dirt now and then, Camp 4 was probably quite literally a part of you growing up.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 24, 2019 - 01:51am PT
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Clint and I were replacing the bolts on a route that Glen and Gary Coliver put up at the Pinnacles called Daedulus. We were replacing the 7 bolts in a bolt ladder on a very overhanging wall. Clint aided up to the top bolt and started replacing them on his way down, clipping each to allow access to the next one.
But, when he got to the last bolt the wall was just too overhanging to reach it. Now, this was actually the first bolt which Glen placed standing on a pretty rotten, sloping ledge. Neither of us could remove the old bolt or drill the hole out just by standing on the ledge. It was just too high!
So, I left the belay and climbed up to the ledge and clipped myself into Clint who was hanging out in space on rappel. With me scrambling to get adequate footing on the ledge, I would pull Clint into the wall for about 30 seconds where he could work and then I would slip off the ledge and we would both swing out into space.
This process was repeated many, many times over the period of about 45 minutes until we got the old bolt replaced. Of course we had to do this and use the original hole because the reached between the bolts in the ladder were so long that even lowering the bolt a few inches to make it easier for us would render the next clip impossible.
BTW, I sent of few of the old bolts back to Glen for his collection.
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Jan 24, 2019 - 08:13am PT
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Brad Young put a list out of the top 25 Scariest Leads at Pinnacles that he had done. Four of them were Denny-Colliver routes.
-Deadilus
-Icarus
-Seldom Seen Pinnacle - West Face
-Desperado Chute Out - Denny-Colliver Direct.
Edit: I guess I should point out that, to many people, Pinnacles is an already scary place to climb. With all the loose rock, having to navigate knobs on a 70 METER 5.9 pitch with ONE bolt and no real anchor on top (body belay, but not on a good stance)... real pants-filling time.
If the author of the guidebook, who has climbed over 800 routes in that park, lists, lists FOUR of 'your' routes amung his 25 scariest leads... it displays something fascinating about your character.
Is that accurate, Brad? 800 routes? Could be wrong...
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Feb 25, 2019 - 12:44pm PT
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I just checked this book out at the local library and I'm enjoying it very much. It's stoking my climbing passions. The first chapter "Learning to Climb" with Warren Harding at the Manure Pile... does anyone know which route he was on?
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