Like Lazarus, the Gold Bro is back...briefly


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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 11, 2019 - 07:01pm PT
Just saw on IG that Trango is bringing them back for a limited run of 100 - preorder started a day or so ago. Anyone use the infamous, and thought to be extinct, Gold Bro? I think I only know one or two people that own one... Iíve used one on occasion (borrowed one for my first time up Chrysler years ago) - a niche piece for sure but occasionally comforting... curious if folks use them and on what routes.
Cool story too - Grossman et al (Allen Hill?) came up with the idea based off an expanding shower rod and Leubben ran with it. Some funny stories from that guy...

Jan 11, 2019 - 07:27pm PT

I think like many here, for my first 30 years or so climbing, I was raising a family and couldn't afford even a large Titan or Tube Chock. Thus, I avoided wide things unless it was accidentally thrust on me in the middle of long route or I was off route, and then I was climbing both unprotected and terrified. When #4 Friends finally came out, buying the most expensive cam made then at a very costly $40 or whatever it was, was the last thing on the priority list. So still avoided ow and sqeezes although there were times where the siren call overrode my good sense.

Once the family was taken care of, I could afford good gear, and although a life of office work didn't prepare me for wide, I could start to get up it, struggling, but less terrified. The previous 35 years of conditioning has me hating wide things, although I confess to owning 2 #5 Gold Big Bros, almost like new, and a couple #12 Valley Giants as well. The Valley Giants were a game changer, pushing one of a wide crack feels like it's cheating:-) The Bros are much lighter though, but they don't work well on some of the irregular carp in this area. Don't know if the pic below shows it, but there is a sling with a #4 on it hanging off the pinnacle being left behind that didn't work strictly due to the irregular nature of the rock. The one below that is in there to be left for pro is ready to fall out.

Pretty good start of a discourse here as well, mostly complaining about the $299 price:

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 12, 2019 - 04:43am PT
Retry darn specialized but at som, very rare,
Times essential.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jan 12, 2019 - 08:08am PT
Pretty darn specialized, but at some very rare times, essential.

Jan 12, 2019 - 08:13am PT
$300 bucks for that, ...dumb .... just put a bolt in.

If you're so eco fanatical about placing a bolt there then don't drive your car there and swim across the river next time you come to a bridge.

Or just free solo it or just leave it .....or just or just blah blah blah


Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jan 12, 2019 - 02:44pm PT
I think Chrysler Crack the only place where one would put a big bro (smaller one) is near the start... I don't recall that the monster would fit anywhere. Up higher the key was tiny offsets in the wall before committing to the last bit.

What are some routes where this thing would really be critical?

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2019 - 04:06pm PT
Werner (or William or Whatever), seems like the Gold Bro fits in the size i cant get my M12 rotary hammer. So unless youíre hand drilling (cuz youíre in Wilderness...) i dont disagree...
NutAgain!, asides from the shitty offset up high, Bros or VGs are the only thing that protect CC. You can place a 6 C4 at start but that just directs rope. Green/blue bros protect crux. You *can* place a Gold up high, and as a new OW/chimney climber when i did it, i was psyched. Anyway, seems like a cool collectorís piece, even if pretty niche (kinda like my offset aliens lol)

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jan 13, 2019 - 08:51am PT
Thanks for clarifying for others who want to do the route Smassey... I suspect I would have not had the proper rack so just made due with what I had and gunned for the top after those crappy nuts... but my memory is notoriously suspect.

Jan 14, 2019 - 03:34pm PT

Why wait for Trango:

Sport climber
100-year Visitor
Jan 14, 2019 - 04:01pm PT
Well played, Bill. Well played.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jan 14, 2019 - 05:11pm PT
Used my gold once, or rather my buddy used it.

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