Freerider Boulder Problem Dimensions

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
JoeCampbell

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 10, 2019 - 06:07am PT
Long shot but here it goes...

Inspired by Free Solo and wanting to set The Boulder Problem on a home wall. The film gave a good walkthrough but I am hoping someone attentive enough would have more detailed sketch of how it is laid out.

Cheers!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 10, 2019 - 08:29am PT
my guess is that there are enough images of the move in Free Solo to reconstruct in in 3D from all the camera angles, at least close enough. Once the movie comes out you can take screen shots and

https://www.google.com/search?q=3d+from+2d+images

would provide some ideas on what software was out there.
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Jan 10, 2019 - 08:45am PT
Perhaps eventually the topography will be digitized and distributed throughout climbing gyms as a sim (probably as product or service).

"Coming to Mesa Rim next week: Actual laser-rendered 3D sim of the Boulder Problem on Freerider made famous by free soloist Alex Honnold 10 years ago. State-of-the-art 5.0 mil topo tolerance. Come and test your skills. Live his wild, mind-blowing experience yourself!"

"Guest appearance by Tom Cruise, Sat 8:00 pm!!"
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jan 10, 2019 - 08:51am PT
This is funny - now everyone wants to try it - like it's Midnight Lightning or something you can just walk up to after a beer. GFL - and have fun in the Monster.
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jan 10, 2019 - 08:57am PT
Maybe the future of climbing is this:

You have a giant 3d "Printer" in the gym, and you program in, for example,

"last 30 ft. of pitch 26 on Freerider"

Then the machine re-creates the moves from that route for you.
WBraun

climber
Jan 10, 2019 - 09:07am PT
Oh, there will be those that want this type of machine.

The world will become more and more sterile in its consciousness.

I'm glad Honnold free soloed all those routes.

The sterile consciousness of the masses just can't handle it .....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 10, 2019 - 09:35am PT
building climb specific training walls has a long history being employed by some remarkable climbers, and those walls often have applicability beyond the specific climb.

I agree that in the "safe" environment of a gym it is somewhat less of an accomplishment then working the real thing, which takes a lot of commitment and dedication.

But we should remember that gym training has been very effective in "upping the game" as it were. And intense training on these sorts of devices was a successful component of the Wyde Boyz blitz of the great American offwidth problems, and intense training is at the heart of this latest's generation ability to put up these difficult problems.



the dimensions of the "Boulder problem" is only a part of story, the texture of the rock will be difficult to reproduce in the gym.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Jan 10, 2019 - 11:03am PT
Franklin tried this in the early 2000ís. They were selling Blacklung, Midnight Lightning and Mandala sets. Biggest issue was that having the holds was of limited utility if your wall didnít have the right angles.

3D printing could work but thatís a sh#t ton of wasted plastic when youíre tired of that problem.
wheatBeer

Social climber
TheBronx
Jan 10, 2019 - 12:09pm PT
I wish I could find those Franklin holds and the build sheet for Midnight Lightning. I was about to build it but missed out.

Anyone out there that has the skills to find the plans for Midnight Lightning???

I bet I could get real close to a reproduction by watching all the videos and pictures.
TLP

climber
Jan 10, 2019 - 12:10pm PT
Not wasted: recycled. Some spiders consume their entire web daily and spin it again at nightfall. Your 3D printing climbing wall machine could do the same. Plus it would have integrated CAD engineering to minimize the amount of material needed based on the stresses at each hold.

WBraun

climber
Jan 10, 2019 - 12:11pm PT
More artificial consciousness.

The real midnight lightning is already there ......
Jim Clipper

climber
Jan 10, 2019 - 12:35pm PT
Keep a tally of failed atempts vs. success. Almost, anti-lightning? Seeing the disproportionate hash marks of failure might shed light on what Honnold did. I'd watch the spectacle. Definitely more accessible than the real deal.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Jan 10, 2019 - 01:13pm PT
wheatBeer, I couldnít find a record of the kits so it may be hard. One thing worth noting, the Midnight set only got you to the lip as I recall. Lead to lots of mockery as the mantle looks like the scariest part to me.
Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber
Home is where we park it
Jan 10, 2019 - 01:14pm PT
You could go to the gym, put on your virtual reality headset, climb the simulated boulder problem, maybe a fan so you could feel the breeze....
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Jan 10, 2019 - 01:19pm PT
>>wheatBeer, I couldnít find a record of the kits so it may be hard. One thing worth noting, the Midnight set only got you to the lip as I recall. Lead to lots of mockery as the mantle looks like the scariest part to me.<<<

That heinous OW looked much worse to me......
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 10, 2019 - 01:56pm PT
Ed said:
building climb specific training walls has a long history being employed by some remarkable climbers
This is true. And it's been going on for so long it could be considered old school by now, and certainly so in the context of sport climbing.

Jim Collins comes to mind, though I forget whether it began as far back as his free ascent of Genesis in Eldorado. Several other names of well-known climbers having used similar tactics have long since slipped through the sieve of my brain.
cragnshag

Social climber
Gilroy
Jan 10, 2019 - 06:07pm PT
Climb up to the spot, set up a portaledge, park a 3D scanning Total Station on the ledge, and you will have a model accurate to 1/8" including all the proper slopes and angles.

Then 3d print the mold (negative) and cast the boulder problem out of concrete.

Will cost about $30,000 for 3 or 4 moves worth of wall.

Recoup your costs by travelling to county fairs and charging chumps $10 to tackle the problem. Entice them with a $1000 prize for a successfull traverse of the problem. Of course the carnie manning the attraction will need to have it wired to show the chumps how easy it is...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 10, 2019 - 07:17pm PT
^^^ actually maybe get some dirtbag climber to be a shill in the crowd, having ruthlessly wired the move, this unlikely character will set the hook when he does it effortlessly, perhaps surreptitiously greasing it up as he walks up to get his prize...
Naitch

climber
Blue Ridge Mts, Shenandoah River
Jan 10, 2019 - 08:01pm PT
^^ last two posts are hilarious!
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Jan 10, 2019 - 09:37pm PT
You could go to the gym, put on your virtual reality headset, climb the simulated boulder problem, maybe a fan so you could feel the breeze.

How would you simulate falling 1000 feet?
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