Who chopped DOA at Lovers Leap? (and why?).

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
Does anybody know who chopped the route DOA (5.11c/d) next to Lovers Chimney at Lovers Leap? Only the first and last bolt on the original route remain. The direct finish BOA (5.12b) had its one bolt chopped too.

This route was done ground up, with a self belay (clove hitch tied off every five feet), hand drilled with no preview..

There is a very thin (1/8" or less) seem, intermittently on the first half. Many falls were taken on equalized sets of #1 stoppers (4 or 5 stoppers in an equalized nest) and sky hooks. Usually two or three stoppers would blow and the sky hook too. Still have the scar between my eyes when the sky hook nearly put my eye out, lesson learned!

It had six bolts I think, and there were two or three good natural placements that where left, one at the start and two at the end.

The route is very sustained and technically difficult, with many cruxes. It represents one of my better efforts at the time. So I'm just curious why someone thought it needed to be chopped?

 Eric Gabel
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 13, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
^ Link please?
Aeriq

Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
Nov 13, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
A fair bit of random choppage lately out west.

It is disconcerting.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Nov 13, 2018 - 04:55pm PT
Do you not remember chopping it?
You are the master chopper.....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 13, 2018 - 06:14pm PT
Disconcerting indeed!
A Essex

climber
Nov 13, 2018 - 09:00pm PT
some sort of Tradiban jihad?
Aeriq

Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
Nov 13, 2018 - 09:03pm PT
some sort of Tradiban jihad?

You loaded the wrong forum, Bro-heim.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Nov 13, 2018 - 09:20pm PT
I don't know nor do I live there. Ignorance comes to mind. But that's easy. I do remember this dude who would take a hanger off a route to use it for a route he was working on. People do some weird things.

Fortunately you already did the hard part. Now you can feel free to rap in and replace what the a-hole did without feeling like you're cheating.

But that sucks.

S...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 14, 2018 - 09:51am PT
Reminds me. I need to buy more Loctite.

Remember to keep your nuts tight folks!

kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Nov 14, 2018 - 07:38pm PT
Bump for the able one
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 14, 2018 - 07:39pm PT
Unfortunately it is much easier to destroy than create.
ec

climber
ca
Nov 14, 2018 - 07:51pm PT
Geeze, Eric, I remember you popping that flake with a hook on the 1st trip on Crossbones at the Needles. That was a certain ankle sprain on that, especially hobbling out of Voodoo Dome!

Donít Erase, Create! Itís a better use of time.

 ec
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Nov 15, 2018 - 08:14am PT
That is a real bummer, DOA is a great route.

I didn't see anything about other routes being chopped on mp. There was some old stuff about the Fandango kerfuffle, but that was a separate issue, and is old news at this point.

If I had to take a guess why DOA was removed though, I would suspect it had something to do with the hideous glue job on a flake. I think it was up higher. I remember getting there and being really surprised. It looked like it was there to reinforce a flake, but it was sloppy and nasty. It's the only time I've seen glue at the Leap.

I remember thinking at the time (maybe 7-8 years ago) that if certain people knew about the glue job, they'd be pissed, and my thought was the Leap had enough drama already. Certainly, given Eric's reputation as a ground up/trad ethic guy, I was wondering if he glued it or if it was a third party.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Nov 15, 2018 - 08:51am PT
The plot thickens! That doesn't sound like something Eric would do.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Nov 15, 2018 - 09:12am PT
I didn't think so either
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Nov 15, 2018 - 09:58am PT
Eric and glue - um that's like calling trump a liberal democrat.
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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