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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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I've read many a topo about FA's here and FA's there. It amazes me the detail that many of these topos have. In fact, I find it hard to believe that the First Ascensionists took the time to record, in what, a little notebook stuffed in their back pocket, along with the pencil they had behind their ear, to stop at every change in feature and measure its length, to come up with such a description as "Climb the finger crack to its end (50-feet), and begin face climbing up and to the right, following on-lead placed bolts (4), until you come to a nice belay ledge (another 60-feet). Belay here, then follow the right-leaning dihedral a full rope length (150-feet) to a hanging belay, using natural pro".
And on and on.
I'm from the Salathe school, "Vy can't vee chust climb?"
So how do you topo, and why or why not?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topo'ing is for guidebook authors, not FA'ists. :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Of course, I'll sometimes sketch something out, nowawdays with a digital image and just draw the line over it.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Climbers, I can't believe the memories some have. Twenty plus years later they are recounting the various holds, the crux moves, what to be careful of on FA's and various routes they have done. Unique they are, in many ways. :)
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 03:29pm PT
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Sounds "sketchy" there Munge, but shouldn't take too long to do as you're climbing. But what about the verbal description to go along with the line? Do you do that as you're leading, or later, around the campfire, or even later after that when your memory might not be so accurate?
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 03:43pm PT
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Hey there King, sounds like you're one of those dudes that Lynnie was talking about!
Actually, I think she's right. Even now, after 40-plus years, I still remember key parts of every pitch of Beacon Rock's Standard SE Corner route! But I did not put up the FA of the route. I just wanted to climb it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Yeah, memory fade after the ascent is a risk for non descript climbs.
I try to take lots of pics these days. But typically will try to document via email, on a forum, or by notes on my PC at home the same day.
Usually written form since I'm not doing much multi pitch lately. The descriptions tend to be short.
For example:
"80s Commie" 5.7? small gear, parallels "Leftist" both morally, politically and linearly.
or
"Leftist" 5.5 * 2 bolts gear medium. Starts on flake with two smaller flakes on top of it. Two bolt anchor rap. FA June 9th 2018 Rob and Holo
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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I remember junior high and high school locker combinations, but I can’t remember a pitch detail by the time I get to the anchors.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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I’ll confess I can’t even remember the names of some of the climbs I did years ago, much less remember the holds.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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I drew this after doing A Movable Stone Voyage in the Black. We did it and there wasn't really a topo available. I just filed it in a small notebook. Its now filed in my Robbie Williams Black Canyon book. I really enjoy drawing them. Even if I never repeat it.
Cheers!
S...
Edit: This is Jimmy Dunns route not mine!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Say what!
Topos are for the bored. I'm sure Constantly draws em' all the time.
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WBraun
climber
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Never drew the st00pid topo.
Partners did and they did the ratings too whatever it became.
The st00pid climb is over .... back to the river where it's peaceful and divine .....
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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River gonna take me sing me sweet and sleepy . . . sing me sweet and sleepy all the way back home
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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I’ll confess I can’t even remember the names of some of the climbs I did years ago, much less remember the holds.
I figured I could flash the same route a second time if I waited 2 or 3 years.
To qualify for a second on sight probably took more like 5 years.
And then instead of giving beta I would give omega. Where you sabotage yourself or a buddy by misrembering key moves or what gear is needed.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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I draw them on a little notebook in my pocket as I go if I remember the dumb notebook. I draw them because I think it’s fun.
If I forget the notebook I piece it together later using pictures, memory, and the memory of my partners.
I also record notes on fly fishing, the snowpack, and plant/animal observations. I like it and I don’t know why.
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