crack to the right of finger licker, black wall, donner.

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 45 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
I was wondering about some route development I witnessed recently at black wall (donner summit)

immediately to the right of "rated X" and "finger licker" is a short, low-angle, Y-shaped crack.

The line is approximately what's shown in blue in the photo below. It ends up being a 30 foot long, ~5.6 crack climb. There are now chain anchors at the top of it.

line in blue
line in blue
Credit: Matt's

I guess my question is-- does the community care about short, crappy routes being put up at donner summit?

I ended up yelling at the developers, because I thought they were not putting much thought into what lines were/weren't worth bolting.

best,
matt
TahoeHangDogger

climber
Olympic Valley, CA
Nov 6, 2018 - 10:50pm PT
Who was drilling?
Nawmean?

Social climber
Out there
Nov 6, 2018 - 11:48pm PT
This outta be good
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2018 - 07:19am PT
I don't know the driller. He had a Hilti so he was pretty fast...
TahoeHangDogger

climber
Olympic Valley, CA
Nov 7, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
Depending on who put it in there it will either get chopped or remain...
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Nov 7, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
Sounds like pretty serious biz...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 7, 2018 - 07:20pm PT
I dunno if it's serious biz or not, but Rated X is on my list of all-time favorite climbs. Partly because of the climb itself (the wildest 5.6 (7? 8?) in the galaxy) partly because of the company -- it was the last time I roped up with Allen Steck.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 8, 2018 - 03:04am PT
Oh I just cant wait....
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 8, 2018 - 03:06am PT
Everyone knows that black wall is ripe with undeveloped routes and everyone wants all the ignored obscura bolted.....

Get the absolute f*#k outta here, I bet those bolts are already gone
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 08:21am PT
The people I ran into were keen on bolting-- after I yelled at them they moved further climber's right to continue their development activities.

They seemed genuinely surprised that I was upset about the route they had bolted.

Their attitude was:

1) the route was unclimbed so they had a right to put an anchor on it.
2) there are bolts everywhere at donner summit.
3) their bolting activity didn't affect me.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 8, 2018 - 08:46am PT
Were they using an actual hilti or a blue bosch? Interesting. Unlikely those bolts will stay, theyre probably already gone
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Nov 8, 2018 - 08:57am PT
Welp, it does sound like a bolt gun run wild...

But Donner ain't exactly pristine wilderness either. It must be that freeway and blasted road that kills it for me?

Sounds like a case of liking the bolts you like, and not liking the ones you don't.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:04am PT
All i know is what ive read here, there could be more to it that we dont know. Maybe something more than just that anchor that will be great, or some dingalings drilling first and thinking later.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:29am PT
No lead bolts on the crack? Just an anchor station? Easy walk off or destructive to plants/trees?


If no to the above, why would it be an issue to add an anchor to an alleged FA?


Some missing info for indignation to occur. Or the purpose of the post for gathering potential older FA info is lost in the post?


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:40am PT
Kingtut....looking for cracks in a pristine wilderness?
Credit: donini
Some here...zero highway noise.
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 09:51am PT
'Were they using an actual hilti or a blue bosch? Interesting. Unlikely those bolts will stay, theyre probably already gone."

yeah they had a hilti
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:59am PT
looking for cracks in a pristine wilderness?

Not quite, Ser Donini, I prefer mine to be filled with modest grasses and the occasional living thing. :)

Just saying, Donner is one of the more urbanized crags in the country and outrage over a violation of its "wilderness" is a little marginal, imo.

As above do the bolts provide function to the community of value? Are they preserving trees and/or shrubs on a walk off? Do they open up a good little route for newbies? Or is it some noob going crazy because he has a battery pack full of juice just bolting because he can?

Donner is cut by countless trails and erosion. These living things matter more than metal bits in stone, imo.

And this does not mean the Compressor Route should not have been chopped (it was, wasn't it?). Now there's a job fit for a man of principal.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 8, 2018 - 10:05am PT
Why is it a crappy route?

Does the crack end at a blank spot where bolts are the only option to descend?

All these details matter.

Bolts aren't inherently bad. Bolts that detract from someone else's experience are.

P.S. Did they climb it on lead? This really shouldn't be a factor is whether the anchor is justified or not but may give insight into the nature of the climb.

There are a few 5.6 and 5.7s in that area. Could this climb provide another option for climbers of that rating and get regular ascents? Or is it just a vanity project that likely will be rarely climbed?

Is the bottom part of the Y a 5.10 that's an alternate start for finger licker? If they extended the upper right part of the Y on a short 5.6 crack that doesn't lead anywhere, that surely doesn't seem worth bolting. Who would want to climb a 5.10 start then to finish on a short 5.6?
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 10:17am PT
"But Donner ain't exactly pristine wilderness either. It must be that freeway and blasted road that kills it for me?"
You are correct, donner summit is not pristine wilderness, though it is a beautiful and historical area.

No lead bolts on the crack? Just an anchor station? Easy walk off or destructive to plants/trees?
If no to the above, why would it be an issue to add an anchor to an alleged FA?
Some missing info for indignation to occur. Or the purpose of the post for gathering potential older FA info is lost in the post?

As I alluded to in my first post, I don't have a problem with bolts or route development at donner. The anchor was placed in a logical spot for the climb.

I do wish that people think hard before putting up a new route. The route in question is extremely short, easy, and features questionable rock quality. There are a couple thousands "routes" like it that could exist at donner. I think it would be a disservice to the environment and to the community to bolt every possible surface in the area.
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 10:19am PT
There are a few 5.6 and 5.7s in that area. Could this climb provide another option for climbers of that rating and get regular ascents? Or is it just a vanity project that likely will be rarely climbed?

The climb is next to "rated X", a 5.7 and one of the most popular climbs at donner summit. People have been climbing here for decades. The fact that the climb hasn't been developed yet speaks loudly...
Messages 1 - 20 of total 45 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta