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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 14, 2018 - 08:44am PT
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hey everyone,
I lost my info for the approach. Can someone point me in the right direction.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 14, 2018 - 09:12am PT
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Approach 1: easy in, harder out:
drive towards Tuolumne Meadows on Route 120, past Crane Flat, then just past Porcupine Flat campground you'll come to a large pullout on the left (south) side of the road, one with many parking places and pit toilets. It used to be T-19 but the park service recently (in the past decade) changed a lot of the trail designation signs so I'm not sure anymore.
Take the trail towards North Dome, at a fork, go towards Yosemite Falls.
Not sure how long, but it is a downhill trail that losses about 1000 feet in elevation over many miles.
You get to the overview, find the tree, tie it off and make the rappel. It's about 240', I once bought a static line that long for the rap and the tyrol off the tip... otherwise it's two raps.
Reverse on the way out, it's a dusty, hot, uphill walk to the trail head.
Approach 2: hard in, harder out:
from the Valley, hike the Yosemite Falls trail to the rim, then make your way over to the overlook. Do the deed. Return down the trail.
If you like quad-burns and highly aerobic exercise, this is a good one.
being in the Lost Arrow notch early in the morning after the approach is a very interesting experience, sort of fraught with anxious feelings. Don't think about it, just do it... then, once you get your partner(s) into the notch, the first thing you do is "walk the plank" to start the climb.
You get an instant 2400 foot of exposure to pull some pretty easy moves, it ain't about the moves.
When I jugged off the Salathe ledge I had the most excitement that I had had in many years, you swing off the thing and are in the middle of nowhere, the rope extends above you seemingly shrinking to thread sized diameter.
Then, when you tyrol off the spire, make sure you are facing the falls, when we did it in the spring you get an additional rush of exposure, with the falls blasting beneath your feet.
It has to be one of the greatest two pitch climbs in the world.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Aug 14, 2018 - 09:14am PT
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Which one? One approach starts at Sunnyside Bench araea, the other is up the falls trail, cross the bridge, walk over to the rap trees, drop in. Have fun, be safe.
Peace
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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2018 - 09:17am PT
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Funny Ed, I knew you'd give the best direction.
Its from Sunnyside, not the falls
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 14, 2018 - 09:19am PT
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If you want to get to the base, the fastest way is to climb/solo Sunnyside Bench and then solo the slabs above. You then scramble up the seemingly interminable sandy slope, fortunately, it terminates at the wall at the base of the falls and spire.
Have Fun!
climb safe!
write a trip report!
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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2018 - 09:30am PT
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Thanks Ed.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 14, 2018 - 01:13pm PT
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Nice description from Ed about the Notch. I did that when I was 16 (I'm 54 now) and still have vivid memories of the exposure and the falls, both on the climb and the tyrolean out. Fortunately, I've forgot how unpleasant the hike up the Falls Trail was, and the hike back down.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 14, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
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Day1 : walk on the rim and fix double rope from rim to the notch. walk down waterfall trail
Day2: from Sunnyside Bench approach Lost arrow Chimney and climb it to the notch.
Optional one night stand on the notch or finish same day Lost ArrowSpire and do Tyrollean traverse . Walk down waterfall trail second time same weekend
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 14, 2018 - 03:51pm PT
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Del cross, Nice trip report. I will continue from your end:
this is Lost Arrow Spire and Tip
19. Carry a load of water to the base {without me- I still feel guilty thanks}
20. Hike up the Falls trail, rap into notch, secure rope, jug out, hike down {without me- I still feel guilty thanks}
21. Hike soft goods and food to base {without me- I still feel guilty thanks}
22. Hike up to base again with rack, ropes, and a different partner [ Now it is me finally show up!]
23. Climb
24. Summit
25. Tyrolean with bag to rim
26. Hike back down the Falls trail
Adding my TR for Lost Arrow Chimney 4 years later with different partner
27. hike up via Sunnyside bench to the base of the chimney
28. Climb 7 pitches of Lost Arrow Chimney with increased slow motion mode up to the end of the day.
29. Ended up in the dark one pitch below [ easiest pitch] the notch not able to move and not able to clearly think.
30. Next morning not able to climb free easiest last pitch, but aided , rappel, start on decent trail, almost fainted on the trail from exhaustion and low sugar level in the blood. Had to sit for 45 min and finish all my food than all my partner's food ( anyway he can not eat , but only puke from dehydration)
31. Give up hiking long approaches and alpine climbing
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Aug 14, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
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Did it in the 80s. Make sure you know how to rig the tyrolean if you do it that way to get back to the rim. The immediate exposure is stimulating.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 14, 2018 - 04:51pm PT
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Hike up the trail, rappel into the notch, climb the tip and then rappel to the ground out of the notch using Roher's rap route.
Piss easy simple way to do it using 9mm lead rope and 7mm rap rope ......
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Aug 14, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
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Arrow direct and Tyrolean traverse; Old school method
Day 1. We hiked up the Falls Trail to the rim (past the falls to the old tree), then rapped down to the notch, tied off the ropes there, and stowed a gallon of water tied to the end of our ropes.
Then we hiked back down the Falls Trail.
Day 2. We racked and rested for a day.
Day 3. Then we hiked up to the base with pig via the benches to the right of Sunnyside Bench (dirty fourth class slab and 1000 ft of sandy, mungey scree), took the Arrow Direct, and bivied halfway up.
Day 4. From the notch we gathered our tied off ropes and trailed them with us to the Arrow Tip, then did the Tyrolean to get back to the rim.
Then hiked a second time back down the Falls Trail.
Someone stole our gallon of water from the notch while we were climbing and it was not appreciated! That was in 1996 and we are still hot on your trail.
We WILL find you!!
And oh yeah.....
......YER GONNA DIE!!!
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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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Thanks everyone!
So if I combine everyone's directions I should be done in 2020, right?
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:09pm PT
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and then rappel to the ground out of the notch using Roher's rap route.
Not that I plan to do it again, but just curious; what is Roher's rap route? Does it go from the notch to the base of the chimney/spire?
So if I combine everyone's directions I should be done in 2020, right?
HaHaHa! We did it in a long day with five guys going up the falls trail and doing the tyrolean. Would have made more sense to rap from the tip to the notch and jugged fixed ropes back to the rim. The tyrolean is stimulating but a pain. Didn't know about the other approaches/descents.
edit: going on memory here; think I remember reading the first ascent of the tip was done by lassoing the tip. Don't see how that would be possible.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:11pm PT
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I believe it goes out the notch on the side you start climbing from... I haven't done it myself, but it might be an ok alternative.
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