Latok I, climbed from the north!

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Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 13, 2018 - 02:37pm PT
The other thread's title now misleading;


https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/latok-i-finally-climbed-from-the-north/


WOW!!!!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 13, 2018 - 03:28pm PT
I want photo evidence.
I want video proof.
I want DNA samples, realtime MaxVO2 readings, personal daily journals from each climber, core ice samples from the upper cornices, photos from basecamp and GO-Pro footage from the summit. We cannot take this kind of claim lightly! That line is sacred and they better be ready to pony up some hardcore evidence with a claim like that!















Slovenians and Brits teaming up! When it comes to toughness, bad weather climbing and gnar I'd go all in on that alpine combo every time. Well done lads. Well done.
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
Aug 13, 2018 - 05:19pm PT
proper!
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
Aug 13, 2018 - 08:33pm PT
How does this not have more comments?!
Mega!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Aug 13, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
But?????

Did Donini & his crew make it to Latok I in time to visit with the folks that finally climbed it?

We may have to wait a few weeks for an answer.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Aug 13, 2018 - 09:29pm PT
I think Jim and a few others were going to the base camp after the trek which they are in the middle of now. Was Huber going to climb the North route? Is it the same base camp?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 13, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
Nice hike!
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 13, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
Is this true!? wow, what a thing to do...

it turns out...People are Awesome..despite all the evidence to the contrary
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Aug 13, 2018 - 10:41pm PT
So much in life is fleeting. To do an accent like this must be arriving at base camp after a car crash or not easy anyway. I look forward to discussion but hope all involved some food and rest. Congrats!!!

S...
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Aug 14, 2018 - 05:19am PT
I'll bet those guys are pretty happy campers right now. The holy grail right?
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Aug 14, 2018 - 09:22am PT
Stunning. I was going to happen. It's astonishing that it took so long, a testament to the difficulty of the mountain and the brilliance of both the Donini, Lowe, Kennedy attempt and these new blokes. Well done!

BAd
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 14, 2018 - 09:42am PT

Awesome badass achievement and lucky to be back alive...

Did they see any crows up there?
Jim Clipper

climber
Aug 14, 2018 - 09:43am PT
Perhaps a pitch, a perch, or some part in memory. Risky game. No words.





Given the climate, glad it was an international team.


Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2018 - 09:51am PT
To think that it took 40 years and how many attempts!

As I said in the other thread, the proliferation of bail anchors no doubt made the ascent easier because they didn't have to carry as many.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 14, 2018 - 10:31am PT
As I said in the other thread, the proliferation of bail anchors no doubt made the ascent easier because they didn't have to carry as many.

Yeah right. I'm sure they saved a ton of weight and time planning to rap off old gnarly windbleached tat that had been there for 40 years!
#gamechanger

i-b-goB

Social climber
Nutty
Aug 14, 2018 - 10:40am PT
Cheers to Tom Livingstone, Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar outstanding climb!
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Aug 14, 2018 - 11:10am PT
I can't help but think all this activity resulted from the slide show. I wish Donini would say something about impeachment being the holy grail of presidential politics, lol.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Aug 14, 2018 - 11:31am PT
Very exciting! And I am happy for their safe return to basecamp.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 14, 2018 - 01:20pm PT

So Gukov and Glazunov may have been the first up the North Ridge.

Here's an interview with Alexander Gukov from the 1th of August, though not addressing the question above: https://www.msn.com/en-gb/video/other/rescued-climber-faced-constant-avalanches/vp-BBLmrhM
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 14, 2018 - 03:27pm PT
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