Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2018 - 11:14pm PT
|
Anyone been over this pass from Lake Sabrina to the evolution region?
My wife and I are planning to hike up Goddard next week and will be trying our luck at a walk in permit for North Lake to go over Lamarck Col and end on the west side. Backup plan is Sabrina Lake.
Choices from Sabrina seem to be:
Haeckel Col
Haeckel-Wallace Col
Wallace Col
Echo Col
My wife is tough and does moderate climbing but we’ll have packs for a week and I don’t want her to get mad at me too early in the trip.
Any advice or experience or pictures are appreciated!
PS- bishop pass is a backup backup plan I guess, based on permits.
|
|
franky
Trad climber
Madison, WI
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2018 - 11:28pm PT
|
I didn't research at all and crossed the col immediately south of Wallace. It was third class but loose and truly miserable.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2018 - 08:38am PT
|
Ya that’s Wallace, heard it’s like trying to hike in a landslide, probably best to not take my wife down that thing!
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 09:55am PT
|
Most people do Echo. Good luck on Goddard.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 10:38am PT
|
Limpingcrab's marriage depends on this you guys. His wife is both better looking than him and stronger than him, but he has an alpinist's masochistic ability to suffer so he has no frame of reference for empathy.
Please give him more beta, he has nice kids and I'd hate to see his wife leave him because he drug her up yet another slog fest scree pile without properly informing her of his plans for group suffering. It wouldn't be the first time.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 01:11pm PT
|
Sh!t like that almost meant divorce court for me a couple of times! 😽
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 02:23pm PT
|
Often the lines between types 1, 2, and 3 fun get blurred, usually by men...always by men who are alpinists.
|
|
Howard71
Trad climber
Belen, New Mexico
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 03:56pm PT
|
I've done the H-W col from E to W & found the ascent enjoyable - pretty solid talus. However, the descent down into the Evolution Basin was loose & long. OK as a descent but I suspect your partner would not enjoy climbing up from that side. We also passed above Echo Lake via the large conspicuous slabs/ridge between Hungry Packer and Moonlight Lakes. That was a lot of fun - route finding pretty straight forward. If you leave Lake Sabrina early & camp at either of the small tarns above Echo Lake before the H-W col you can do a 2nd / 3rd class scramble of Picture Peak in the afternoon. Take time to scramble Wallace from the H-W col - it's a nice summit block.
Howard Snell
|
|
splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 04:01pm PT
|
yup, going down H-W col into Evolution is loose and a long way down. Echo is probably you're best bet if you can't get permits for Lamarck, but I have not done that pass.
|
|
Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 04:25pm PT
|
I've done Echo Col 3 or 4 times, the first time in 1970. It's a great way to get into the heart of the Sierra, though the top 50 - 100 feet always seemed 3rd class. There's often a bit
of steep snow on the Echo Lake side that can be pretty hard (icy) if you start from Echo Lake in the early morning. Beautiful place, have fun!
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Jul 17, 2018 - 04:27pm PT
|
Friends don't let friends do alpine with their significant others ;)
After the first four climbing dates with my wife, we had logged 4 nights of hiking back in the dark, 1 time somewhat lost, 2 times totally lost and wandering for hours and almost giving up on finding the tent, 1 time ascending unanchored stuck rope in 50mph winds, and 2 times destroying ropes... well she didn't leave me, but wifey and I worked out an arrangement where my climbing trips with her are kept separate from my "adventure" climbs. We're still happily together after a decade!
I think I figured out this prominent peak in the background right skyline is Mt Darwin, and the high saddle in the middle-ground to the left of Mt Darwin is Lamarck Col- to get an idea of snow conditions. At it seems that the chossy west side of the Haeckel-Wallace col has less snow in general from google maps pictures:
This gives you an idea of snow cover as of a few weeks ago.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2018 - 08:32pm PT
|
Hahaha! I think by now my wife expects nothing less than an epic, but I'll show her I can plan a pleasant trip!
Thanks for the info, great combination of wisdom and on the ground reports.
|
|
hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2018 - 04:01pm PT
|
We went over Echo Col into Ionian Basin to bag Charybdis and Scylla. It was one of my all time favorite trips. Did it over the 4th of July in 2016 (pretty average snow year if I remember right).
It was a snow climb up to the Col from Echo Lake, and solid class three on the southwest side, then more snow down to the JMT.
Not to give you too much jitters, but we all decided to go down LeConte Canyon and over Bishop Pass on the hike out (hitched back to Lake Sabrina), because Echo Col was so burly!!
Lamarck Col would be best bet for Goddard for sure, but sounds like Type II fun is no problem for you guys! haha
|
|
F10
Trad climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2018 - 08:16am PT
|
Echo is great but it’s been a long time ago
|
|
duffer
Trad climber
Sonora, CA
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2018 - 09:20am PT
|
Echo Col with snow is pretty straight forward with a little third class rock at the top. Without snow it is loose and nasty getting to the third class.
|
|
Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2018 - 09:27am PT
|
Hey Daniel -- Lamarck is a piece of cake in either direction. Echo I would recommend going up from the Echo Lake side. There may be remnants of snow as it is shady in there. As for Haeckel-Wallace, it has been eons since I was last there and we just ascended the col to climb Haeckel, we never dropped down the other side.
My wife has been over Echo, winter ski tour, we are still married....
jim
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 02:13pm PT
|
We won’t arrive to the permit station until early afternoon so my first choice would be Lamarck for that day or the next.
Maybe second choice should be Echo instead of Haeckel-Wallace. Only problem is that we’re headed to Davis lake on the north side of Goddard so Echo drops us in on the wrong side of Muir Pass so it adds an extra pass and some miles.
I’ve never tried a walk in permit on the east aide so I don’t know what to expect Tuesday afternoon...?
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 02:18pm PT
|
Anyone around bishop or lone pine want to get us a walk in permit for this Tuesday!?!? :)
I’ll buy you whatever it is you like people to buy you and maybe throw in a foot rub
|
|
Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2018 - 02:37pm PT
|
limpincrab
My wife Pen and I went over Lamarck Col on the way to Goddard in 2013.
The scramble over the Col is reasonable class 3 (with packs). The distance from North Lake is something like 16-18 miles (don't quote me). We did it in two (hard) days, we are old and slow. This approach is scenic and few people on it.
Getting permit (mid week) for this adventure is not too difficult. If you arrive in Bishop mid afternoon before the RS closes, you can generally get the permit, no problem. Friday and weekends are another story.
BTW, you could try going back via Echo Col.
Cheers, Alois.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 03:18pm PT
|
Good to know, thanks Alois, hope it works out.
I’m taking the kids camping by Florence this weekend and leaving a car there so the plan is to head out that way.
Thanks everyone, I know nothing about the east side so this has been super helpful
|
|
| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!