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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 23, 2018 - 01:30pm PT
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Check out this photo on the Black Diamond website. No brake hand on the rope - and BD puts this on their website?
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 23, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
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There's a rope in that picture?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 23, 2018 - 01:48pm PT
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^^^Ha!
Hmm. I see two hands, both touching rope.
And, she's watching her climber. Better than some I see out there.
Edit to add: rocks at her feet make it look like Maple Canyon. F the belay hand, she needs a helmet! Ha ha...
Also from their website...the horror!
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Mar 23, 2018 - 01:50pm PT
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Canyoneering technique. For speedier lowering, just in case.
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walkonyourhands
climber
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Mar 23, 2018 - 04:49pm PT
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Is she even belaying? I can't make out a device. For all I know she could be just pulling the rope?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 23, 2018 - 05:10pm PT
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Dunno what's happening but I don't think she's belaying.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Mar 23, 2018 - 09:09pm PT
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That's a cool looking rope.
Mustard?
Curry?
Baby sploodge?
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dh
climber
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Mar 23, 2018 - 10:42pm PT
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yeah, looks like she's pulling a rope down through the anchors.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Mar 24, 2018 - 12:11am PT
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So it's eyesight that goes first, then reflexes.
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perswig
climber
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Mar 24, 2018 - 03:16am PT
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I'm with Brian, not seeing the problem.
Paying attention, probably just took slack. Pretty sure I use my guide hand to keep strands oriented just like that during brake-hand transitions.
(We're all gonna die at some point.)
And she looks good in those pants.
Dale
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2018 - 07:35am PT
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probably just took slack Based on the position of her left hand, it's hard to give her a pass on "just took slack." This wouldn't, or at least shouldn't, be acceptable technique if taking a belay test.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Mar 24, 2018 - 07:52am PT
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That's what happens when one has no experience with the hip belay.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 24, 2018 - 07:57am PT
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this is what happens when people have too much time on their hands. looks like she is feeding out slack. certainly if you looked at slow motion video of everyone posting here belaying (if they even belay) you would find snapshots in time where they were not doing everything correctly....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 24, 2018 - 08:00am PT
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You crankloons are assuming there’s a climber above her.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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LOL .... krankl00ns fer sure ......
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2018 - 08:21am PT
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You crankloons are assuming there’s a climber above her. I suppose we're assuming she's even belaying. Is there a belay device under her hand?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Mar 24, 2018 - 09:46am PT
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The photo has a mishmash of colors. A paisley border could save it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2018 - 10:43am PT
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I have climbed extensively for more than 50 years and I always been a firm supporter of the mantra “one must never let go with the brake hand”....except, of course, when one is taking pictures.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Mar 24, 2018 - 10:49am PT
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I still prefer a hip belay and a swami belt.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2018 - 10:54am PT
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With that statement Paul I hereby nominate you for membership in the “la Brea Tarpits Cimbing Association.” To participate in events you will have to travel to the Ouray/Ridgway area.
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