Guidebook recommendation for Cochise multipitch moderates?


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Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 13, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
Hey folks, quick question...

Heading to Cochise for the first time this April for about 3 days. Looking to climb some of the multi-pitch moderates.

Anybody know what the right guidebook would be for this purpose? Got any favorite routes to recommend? Favorite places to camp?

Thanks in advance!

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:14pm PT
For 3 days just use the stuff on Mountain Project.

What is moderate these days???

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:25pm PT
What is moderate these days???

Anything up to 12a as far as I can tell...
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:28pm PT
You need to do more research about the area rather than asking others to provide that for you. Cochise is a great place, but your trip will be that much better if you find out a little about the place and then see what others have to say.

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:32pm PT

That guidebook is the latest up to date book. The West Stronghold isn't well documented in it because only a small group of locals climb out there and they don't share beta. Plenty of stuff in the East Stronghold for you.

Have fun and enjoy your stay in Southern Arizona!
Off White

Tenino, WA
Mar 13, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
Alternatively, check out Geir Hundal's topos. There are enough free topos to fill a 3 day visit, but it's worth throwing him a bone for his work and either pay for the $9 digital download or a hard copy. Geir's a great guy and his research is meticulous. He's made a project of repeating the hardest routes on the Rockfellow domes, many of which are second ascents.

Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
Mar 13, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
Be sure to add 0.15 to every grade at Cocheese.
Scott McNamara

Tucson, Arizona
Mar 13, 2018 - 06:10pm PT
Here is my 2.

On the east side, I believe Rockfellow and Cochise Dome are now closed for birds.

As I see it, your best bet for a three (3) day trip is staying on the west side---otherwise, hunting for climbs and humping gear will eat up too much of your time.

Camp at the parking area for Sheepshead. It is free. No water.

I am guessing, by way of moderate we are talking:

The grades, on the newer routes, are probably about right or slightly conservative. The much older, mostly trad routes are another matter entirely.

For multi-pitch, pay very close attention to where the route is located on the formation. At very least: take the route description on the climb, a wind jacket, a stocking cap, gloves, pocket knife, headlamp and perhaps a second rope.

The Beanfest is there March 24.

Have fun!

Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 11:38pm PT
Awesome. Thanks to all for the advice.

Scott, your post is right on the money... exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for. We'll be there mid-April. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks, again.

Portland area

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