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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
Sir Robin
Trad climber
Pocatello
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 18, 2018 - 03:47pm PT
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I am trying to find someone who might want to climb Warbonnet Peak in the Sawtooths (ID). I want to climb the SE Face. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110776977/se-face It is 700 feet, broken up into 6 pitches. There are 3 5.4 pitches (including a squeeze chimney) and 3 5.7 pitches. Projected date is mid-July to early August.
I am looking for a partner/s who has some experience with alpine climbing. I have led multi-pitch climbs, but most of my leading experience has been in places like the Gunks where people start to whine if they have to hike more than 20 minutes. So I don't feel as if I would be the right person to take a beginner out with me.
There is something else. The climb is kind of a bucket list thing for me (It’s not El Cap or Everest, but Warbonnet and the Sawtooths beautiful) as I have a chronic medical condition that seems to be getting worse. (I'm adding this not for pity, but so you will know what you are getting into.) I had planned on doing this in a couple of years, but I’m not sure I can wait that long. I want to be able to climb this while I can still be a functioning member of a team – packing in my stuff and swapping leads. I estimate that the trip would be about 3 days – a day to get in, a day to do the climb and a day to pack out. I’ll probably need the extra downtime to rest.
If a long slog to a 6 pitch alpine 5.7 sounds like fun to you – send me an email at deirdre.caputolevine@gmail.com. I will fill you in on the particulars.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 18, 2018 - 04:39pm PT
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Robin: As you are likely aware, there is a challenging off-trail pass from near Alpine Lake into the cirque west of Warbonnet. When I was a reasonably fit 22 year old, it took 3 of us two full days to pack in technical climbing gear & set up a camp in that cirque.
First night was just below the pass, which had an enhanced reputation at the time, since an Outward Bound instructor had broken his leg on it.
I will admit to our having climbed adjacent Packrat Peak after topping out on the pass on day 2, before continuing down into the cirque. It's a wonderful class 4 scramble & should be part of your adventure too.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jan 19, 2018 - 07:59am PT
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If you don’t find any takers, there are guide services that might fit your needs.
Consider it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 19, 2018 - 10:14am PT
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Have interest, but some conflicting priorities for those times right now.
I'll check back on the thread. Shout if timing gets closer and haven't got someone lined up.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 19, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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I’d do it but, trust me, you don’t want me. 😉
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Jan 19, 2018 - 10:50am PT
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I have wanted to get back to that area (but this summer is too busy to consider it). I agree with what was posted above- it is about 7 miles with some elevation to get from the south end of Redfish Lake to Alpine Lake and then it's another pretty fair haul to get up/over the pass and down into Bead Lakes basin. So I'd plan on at least 4 days overall for the trip.
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Aerili
climber
Project Y
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Jan 19, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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I think it's feasible to do in 3 days but you definitely need to expect AT LEAST 8 hours to hike into the basin (and maybe more) with a heavy pack plus factoring routefinding difficulties. For instance, the trail you take over the continental divide to drop down into the basin is not a well marked trail and could delay you. It's also the more difficult terrain in general and you will slow down considerably in this part.
Additionally, the approach to the climb itself from the basin is not "short". Unfortunately it's not like you're camping right at the bottom of the tower.
If you'd like some buffer, 4 days' provisions could be best. YMMV.
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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