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Q- Ball
Mountain climber
but to scared to climb them anymore
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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I have always preferred a STIHL, but have used many others.
I like to carry two at all times, a 16 inch and a 25 inch bar.
Do you guys got a preference?
That 25 inch is heavy and a pain in the butt to hike with.
Qball
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Ballo
Trad climber
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Jan 17, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
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That's a huge difference in bar length.
I mean a 16" bar Husqvarna 35cc 439 weighs 8.64lb while a 24" bar 60cc 460 weighs 12.79
Edit: sorry misread what you wrote.
Yeah, Husqvarna for quality
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 17, 2018 - 09:48pm PT
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my Sachs Dolmar has a 24" bar, but it's not used much out here in suburbia
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 17, 2018 - 09:53pm PT
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How can you go wrong with a Stihl or a Husque?
Bimmers or Volvos, apples or oranges? 👍
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Ballo
Trad climber
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Jan 17, 2018 - 10:08pm PT
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I think Husky's are generally lighter comparing cc to cc, and a little cheaper.
Having a local dealer/mechanic who works on them might be something to consider.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Jan 17, 2018 - 10:49pm PT
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Pfft, 25 inch bar on yer modern stihl to heavy for ya. Try one of these on for size, mid 1970's Mcculloch super pro 125 with 60 inch bar all metal no plastic parts, no sissy chain brakes, compression release to start it and no vibration dampening, which is major factor in toasted elbows 40 years later.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Jan 17, 2018 - 11:57pm PT
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I prefer a Stihl Farmboss.
Doesn't make the cleanest of cuts though...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 18, 2018 - 06:06am PT
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had a Homilite XL 12 for many years. the old blue and white rig from before they went homeowner. 15 bucks at a yard sale. Then a husly 350 for 17 years till it blew up and now a full pro Johnsereds CS2260 with 18 in bar. felled this massive 35in dimater maple a few months ago..
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Sula
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Jan 18, 2018 - 06:21am PT
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Unless your use is very casual, a chainsaw is maybe the best example of a tool that calls for top quality, and repays the user who insists on it.
Stihl for me.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 18, 2018 - 06:55am PT
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Jonsred is actually the same company as Husky but their premier line. Huskys got dumbed down in quality to hit the department stores pricelines...
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Tim Bermingham
Mountain climber
Jamestown, California. U.S.A.
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Jan 18, 2018 - 07:03am PT
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great subject. Used 'em all from a 090 to mini mac. My husky lasted more n 20 yrs....finally croaked. Bought a new Stihl $400 ...farm boss. sweet. 20" bar. General use/firewood. Had it about a year now...love it.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Jan 18, 2018 - 07:42am PT
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Love those pictures Hardly Visible!
Between working as a wild land firefighter and doing tree work all through grad school I ran everything from small top handled saws for use up in trees to full size professional saws with 60 inch bars. Both Stihls and Husqvarnas. Cutting everything from southern California brush to big trees in the North West and removing massive trees from back yards in the bay area. Though now I haven't touched a chainsaw in like 15 years!
I'm sure real pros have their preferences but both brands always seemed good to me. I liked the easy access to the bar tension screw on Stihls and also the more oversized fuel and bar oil caps (easier to open).
Husky in carry mode:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 18, 2018 - 07:50am PT
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I should get a deal on a new Husque seeing as how I just sprang for a new Volvo, shouldn’t I?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 18, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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I have a Stihl with a 20" bar. There does seem to be a "tao" to starting them when they are cold, but once you figure that out it works great. Once they warm up, they start on fist pull every time.
The arborists that came to the house a few weeks back were all running Stihls.
Dang, that leg trimming is my worst nightmare, especially standing slopes with poor footing ;-(
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Jan 18, 2018 - 08:43am PT
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Stihl.
Simple trick to avoid opposite knee chainsaw injuries.
All safety instruction will, of course, insist the chain be stopped and chain brake engaged when moving. The idea is that if you are walking it's too easy to pick your knee up and into a moving tooth chain. If you're trying to get any work done though, engaging the chain brake every time you want to take a step, or a few steps, is impractical.
Another method to avoid left knee, opposite knee, injury is to rest the body of the saw on your left thigh. When you pick your leg up to take a step the whole saw goes up with it.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Jan 18, 2018 - 09:03am PT
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^^^ Good point. How did you know I was walking and bumped my knee with it?
Also invested in Kevlar chaps.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 18, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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that pic makes me want to buy some Kevlar chaps.
interesting idea to avoid the knee thing.
I'm only doing small rounds after the tree is down and have been very conscious of where I'm moving the chain around (it has a break on it).
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Jan 18, 2018 - 09:35am PT
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Even if you intend to engage the chain brake when you move, resting the body of the saw on your left thigh is a good habit to get into in case you forego the chain brake sometime in the future. Eventually, everyone stops using the chain brake at least some of the time.
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