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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 24, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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New Museum Display at the AZ Hiking Shack!
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 Since this first post can be forever edited, I will continually update the boards on this first post as the edit additions and corrections are added in the display.
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Now that you have your feet up and are enjoying the Holidays, I need your help. I am switching out the Museum at the AZ Hiking Shack from the Chouinard Display
.to Mixed Nuts, nuts from around the world. Basically 1500 different chocks. Since a few months ago thieves ran off with all of my museum data, I have been putting together this display off of memory.
So you are my super editors on Supertopo. If you see anything in this display that looks incorrect please post a note. I am looking for compliments, corrections and complaints to dial in the history of the Mixed Nuts display. Looking for product year dates, mfg names, product names etc. The display will be installed mid January and will remain for the next two+ years. While the display is up I can continually make changes to it. 17 boards, 2 window shelves, a few side wall pieces, and misc display above.
Click on photos for more focused photo (The photos are perfect but when downloaded to Supertopo they appear slightly out of focus). Hmmmmm.
Marty, Karabin Climbing Museum contact info..... karabin714@gmail.com
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EDITED BOARDS BELOW EDITED UP TO 6/1/2018
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The top two Chouinard/BD boards shown below are in the Mixed Nuts Display.
The other Chouinard/BD boards are in the Chouinard display, but are included in this list for history purposes.
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The Chouinard display is relocating to the Patagonia Archives in Ventura California. Terri and Val are the caretakers of the Archives, and are happily welcoming the Karabin Climbing Museum into their home. I am totally psyched that this display is staying in one piece and will serve as a historic timeline guide for Terri and Val and everybody that visits the Archives. Thanks Patagonia!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 24, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Nice Marty...good job! I especially like the pics of Val and Terry. I remember them fondly from my days at Patagonia over twenty years ago. Funny... Im writing this from Patagonia (the place).
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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Donini - Very cool! Happy Holidays to you and safe Adventures!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 24, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
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Marty! Awesome display! Great job.
I can share one piece of SMC Drilled Hex trivia for your SMC nut display. I have a photo of our climbing gear in the Bugaboos parking lot from late Sept. 1972.
Per red line in that photo, there was a SMC Drilled 4 Hex among the gear.
Closeup from that photo,showing the drilled Hex. Note the perlon color & owner ID tape, just below the Hex.
Here's that SMC Hex today, with the same perlon & tape. I would have bought it before Sept 1972. Maybe as early as 1970 or as late as Aug. 1972. Darn early for a drilled Hex.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Dec 27, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Great stuff Marty!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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Roots - Thanks! Happy Holidays to you!!!
Fritz - Very cool. So pushing the SMC hex to 1972 or earlier. I visited Stephanes Needle Sports museum site this weekend and found another correction. Forrest plastic Foxhead was made same time aluminum Foxheads were made. So not 1974 but Foxheads first made 1970. Fritz you show two plastic Foxheads in your sept 1972 photo which is secondary proof that they were made pre 1974. Good stuff!
The 1966 MOAC I show may go earlier than 1966 but I am not sure if the first MOAC 1962 had exactly the same shape on its top. It looks like the first MOAC batch had little cutout on the top on the sides. Hmmmm. The MOAC I have may have come from the second batch.
I was not sure if I list the 1964 Troll Wedges as Hexagons. In the 1964 Fisher catalog these hexes are listed as Troll Wedges. Later they are considered Hexagons. For now I list them as Wedges.
So it looks like first nuts manufactured for the public:
1961 Acorn - John Brailsford (one size)
1962 - MOAC (one size)
1964 Troll Wedges (2 hexes, flat ends, Spuds)
Clog
Peck
Dolt
Parba
Colorado Nut
Forrest
Mammut
Eiger
...............1970s...........
SMC
Chouinard
RP
CMI
etc.
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Also : Wild Country claims the ROCK 1979, is the first curved nut produced. SMC Camlock 1974 is curved....but does it count?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 27, 2017 - 09:06am PT
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You definitely found the right place to post about nuts! ;-}
I think I have an old Clog that I didnt see above. More likely is that I just missed it. ;-/
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Dec 27, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Yer nuts?
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 27, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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But! Has there ever been a better ad for Nuts than this one for Clog Cogs?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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I like the Edelrid rope ads in Mountain magazine where the girl was naked and wrapped up in a rope. Each magazine issue showed her with less and less rope. The final ad showed her covered up with just two rope strands.
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 27, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
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Cool stuff, whats the story on the Coincuer Haffner ,lower left in first photo? Kinda looks like two pulleys , side by side. How did that work?
Cant make out the fine print.
This thing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 28, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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No blue anodized CMI I-beams? They were available in lengths up to 18"! Also the tiny nuts they made too small for anything but ear rings.
Edit; that's the stuff, nuts! Below!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 28, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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Sorry Marty, your fantastic Christmas gift (#980) is not here yet...;-)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2017 - 10:00am PT
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Jaybro - Yes I have the full set of CMI Beamchoks which I will show later. What I am showing for now is half of the display. I will share the other half once the boards are completed. The area where this display is going unfortunately has two windows on the wall, which I have to keep see through. So mirror glass was installed and in the window area I installed shelves. The CMI Beamchoks are going on the shelves.
I think I have one of those Jewelry CMI pieces you are talking about. It is in the display just above the CMI Hexachoks info tag. I always look at that tiny hex and wonder if the wire would even hold 150lbs.
My friend and I had a long day bolting a few new routes on Apache Leap, and then hiked the heavy load a mile back to the parking area. We both collapsed sitting on the ground exhausted. Another group of climbers a few minutes later arrived at the parking area in conversation, and one of the climbers said, "I don't know what I will do with those blue chocks." "Maybe I will make wind chimes out of them." I stood up and exclaimed "Excuse me"..... would those chocks happen to be CMI Beamchoks? He said yes and a week later he personally stopped by my house and donated his Beamchoks. Complete full set, mint, and thank you again Ed LaCriox! I searched for years for these chocks and only found two from Arno Ilgner, which are now with Stephane tied with gold webbing. There are great surprises around every corner!
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 28, 2017 - 10:09am PT
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Any comment on my post 3 up the page about the "Coinceur Haffner"?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Dec 28, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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I've never seen such a large rack so carefully arranged. No more desperate fumbling with finding the right biner to unclip or gauging the correct size nut.
Nicely done.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2017 - 06:24pm PT
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Roger - Thanks for the props!
John - The Coinceur Haffner is two-channeled cam lobes strung together so they can move separate. A cool idea which will work in offsets as well. The more the cord is pulled downward, the more the cam lobes grab the rock. Stephane sent me this info on the Coinceur Haffner.
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 28, 2017 - 06:45pm PT
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Thanks for the reply. Interesting,,
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 29, 2017 - 12:22am PT
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Thank you very much Marty for posting such a fair reply.
John, here is the very first and unique prototype of the Coinceur Haffner (size 3).
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